teabag

When I replaced my water pump I just use a dab of grease on both sides of the paper gasket, for the screw threads I just use waterproof thread sealant, purchased in Halfords. That was four years ago and no issues.

The passive immobiliser (spider) came in with the TA VINs, the active system that u have can be set and unset with the key in the drivers door lock, or a fob if u have one, fobs were an option on some models so u don't really need it if it's faulty as u can still use the key. So have u tried unlocking with key and fob? does the central locking work ok as that also controls the immobiliser function. Hazards flashing has nothing to do with immobilising, and will only when alarm has been activated along with the horn sounder, so possibly your security system in stuck in an alarm condition and the sounder part isn't working. Are u sure your vehicle is immobilised and it isn't a iffy link to the starter or switch. Other than u or someone needs to do some testing.

RAVE or search Land Rover Topix. https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/content/document/index?groupId=1665 Discovery 2, then year, then documents and take you pick as there's a few bull and A bars listed.

There's only two drains at the front one at each corner of the sunroof, for the front they are within A pillar and not accessible, for the rear the ends can be seen hanging down at the rear and up above the each mudflap on a D1 so should be similar on a D2. Why do you think you will have to blow them out? They are sealed nothing can get in when the glass is closed.

With the EDC system there's no mechanical link (cable) between the accelerator pedal and the fuel injector pump, hence the term 'drive-by-wire'.

Speedo has dual speed markings, so not an issue in the UK at MOT time, radio frequency is wrong for U.K. so just replace the head unit to one with UK spec, I understand if it's a Tdi the exhaust pipe at the manifold end is different to the UK system, something with emissions in Japan, if and when it due for replacement just fit the UK system. Finally the Japanese security system isn't as comprehensive as the uk system either the alarm or immobiliser part of the system is missing. As "for parts of the loom, etc" ??

Do you have the throttle cable if no you have EDC, no need to go under the dash removing the kick panel.

The paper catalogue is much better it. As more info in the front half dozen pages before the parts bit, also I find it quicker to search through.

Not the 1995MY but a1996MY built in 1995 then yes, as alway there's two model years per year. As an example when I purchased my D1 alongside it was the 1998MY D1 both he same price, but there was a deal to be done with the outgoing model, so for me, that was £5000 off, or to be exact a load of extras and two years free servicing.

The 1996MY D1 was in the showrooms in June1995, hence the vehicle being built in 1995 the VIN is MA. Just to add as I was looking to purchase a disco back then, there was few other important changes made to the 1996MY, which continued through 1997 until changes were made again when the 1998MY D1 was introduced.

No EDC fitted to 1995MY tdi auto. EDC was introduced and fitted to 1996MY tdi auto model's onwards. So will only comment on vehicle with date as stated.

Fuse 3 looks after the supply to: fuel cut shut-off solenoid, EGR control solenoid, EGR valve control module and the glow plug timer relay. So not that bad with the EGR being the primary suspect.

B

Ok, check the fluid level in the approved way (cold, selector P to 1 etc) and see what is what. Some times in some light its difficult to see the fluid level on the dip stick especially if it new. If there's no sign then add an additional .25 litre wait 1/2 hour and check again in the approved way. Can't think of any other way.

Ok, check the fluid level in the approved way (cold, selector P to 1) and see what is what. Some times in some light its difficult to see the fluid level on the dip stick especially if it new. If there's no sign then add an additional .25 litre wait 1/2 hour and check again in the approved way. Can't think of any other way.

Hi to u Monkeyfeet, I've never tried, and it's never crossed my mind to have a look in the similar way we do to check the engine oil level. I've always done what's stated in the handbook book and move the selector etc. My Honda Accord auto is checked in the way we do for the engine oil and the engine/fluid must be hot.

Correct ATF does expand, hence on some auto dip sticks there's two levels marked i.e., cold, hot, but for the D1 there's only one marked area , so fluid level should be somewhere in between the two 'pips' on the dip stick, preferably close to the top 'pip' with the level taking with the gearbox and fluid cold, as u say, with the engine running selecting slowly the positions from P to 1 and back into P then go and look at the dipstick with the engine still running, takes two or three minutes, simples.

About AUD$3000 is £1775 in the UK today, but then there's the additional shipping cost back to the UK to take into account, which won't be cheap, plus cost of getting to Australia in the first place and not every Brit will want to holiday in Australia... so an expensive D 1 it seems. No all D1s in the UK suffer from corrosion, some have had a cherished life, I know of one.

Two months on... it's always good practice to return and let the Forum know the out come of your enquiry. But then I don't suppose we will see u again.

It's a classic symptom of a failing spider immobiliser, intermittent starting, maybe a single misfire (cutting out and restarting) when running and then failing completely and stopping the engine. Went through all that for a year until the engine stopped on the outside lane of a duel carriage way, fortunately for me I could crank the engine it was just the spark that was missing, so a very easy fix with a bit of wire at the road side got me going again, and later installing the wire in a permanent way in the engine bay. If you can't crank the engine and the fault is with the spider, the starting circuit that the spider looks after can again with a single piece of wire get u going again, there's two independent circuits in the spider of a D1 V8, starter and ignition, either or both can fail at once. Unable to crank, of course could be an iffy connection on the starter motor or ignition switch or its wiring into the fuse board. As far a any temperature sensor goes, it will never stop the cranking of the engine.

I have a couple passenger doors that don't unlock/lock, it happens once a year maybe, I find a splash of wd40 down the door pin into the door clears that problem and so back to normal. It could be that the doors actuator requires a slight readjustment, for that the door card does have to be removed.

Yes it will. Use an identical ECU plus its matching fobs and it plug and play. There's a 'Crash' sensor within the ECU, on activation... hazards will flash and the doors will unlock, if locked. Reset is by switching ignition switch off on off, the info is in the owners handbook. The master actuator is in the drivers door, it only has a very small motor so doubtful if it's "pulling too much load" look for a partially seized locking in the drivers door.

10 miles... then there's a problem. The thermostat is no fully closing, viscous coupling faulty.

Normal for D2 autos, it's part of the design to aid quicker warm up, the info may be in your owners handbook, if not in a Forum somewhere.