teabag

What is a ARM5965 ? It means nothing to Google or me 🙂

Yes to your question. No MOT no tax unless MOT exempt. You can apply to stop paying for vehicle tax if your vehicle was built before 1 January 1979. You must tax your vehicle even if you do not have to pay, Its automatic. With the MOT exemption the vehicle has to be classified as Historic for that you have to apply to the DVLA, and certify the vehicle doesn’t meet the “modified” criteria and of course the vehicle was first registered 40+ years ago. Simples, I did both last year at the same time at my local Post Office for my classic car that was on a Sorn at the time so with out an MOTcert.

The impeller has been known to break up, but very rare I believe and then only on aftermarket market items. A faulty viscous coupling for the fan will cause overheating. Coolant flowing the heater is a good indication that the pump is ok, also maybe u can look/feel inside after removing the bottom hose connection on the pump.

Just my typo, locking relay.

Yes it’s a shame but moving on the 300 series was better. I believe from snippets of info I’ve gained over the years that is the clocking relay that sends the signal to the indicator relay to flash the indicators, I don’t know how as that item isn’t shown in my early D1 diagrams, maybe because in the days of your disco remote central locking plus the alarm ECU upgrade was an option, optional kit isn’t necessarily shown in old factory wiring diagrams. But the flash should be there when using the key only in the drivers door. Really without wiring diagram what’s now required, is spending a day looking and testing as necessary (find out which wire is sending 12v when locking/ unlocking) in the wiring from the alarm ECU, onwards to the central locking relay that is the tall black relay that’s positioned near the ECU, plus the relay connection and operation, then go to hazard switch. as the system was once functional suggests that clearing you issue will be simple... if you can find it that is. If the issue can’t be found, than you’ll have to stay without the locking/unlocking indicator flash, the D1s door actuators aren’t exactly silent and the door pin is easily seen to confirm that the door is locked/unlocked.

As it appears that u have a 200 series disco hence the five terminal relay ie. pre 1995MY, so the electrical circuits are simple. Vehicle security wiring diagram isn’t available but the indicator diagram below shows the five terminal relay that u have shown in your the pictures.

Key blanks (uncut key) for the D1/2 are available on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323768943005

This may help https://www.actproducts.co.uk/2011/lucas-14cux-fuel-injection-system-–-installation-and-diagnostic-notes/

The vacuum pipe has a one way valve which can block with carbon, and will give u that symptom, you may have two valves one each end as my 3.9 disco has, so remove and soak in brake cleaner fluid or similar to clean and replace, problem gone as mine did, that’s if that your issue. 😋

You have already asked your question in a previous thread, and a reply showing the components involved with the internal mirror. There’s nothing called “shoe”. Give us the description and I’ll look in my parts catalogue for the part number, which will be obsolete nowadays, so won’t be a lot of use.

Not the part number but it’s a correct discription of the items that do have a part number which u can use in your www search. https://allbrit.de/epc.cfm?PAGE=C01290&CAR=L2&SPRACHE=EN

Happy you have resolve your discos issue, it’s a known problem with the receiver. Re. the access code, that’s normal... enter the code but don’t lock lock the vehicle there’s no need to enter it again, then because you re locked the access code had to be re entered again, I assume that’s what u did.🙂

At last it looks promising for you. 😎

It’s something that to my engine a few years ago. Run a temporary wire from the battery + to your coil + then see if it starts. If so I tell u what to do. There’s no need now to remove the dash as stated in the link above which also has a few technical errors in it.

New relays if required, take your pick on the price. https://www.lrdirect.com/AFU2913L-Rly-Fuel-Injection/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAh9njBRCYARIsALJhQkFFxu-bLdHmWv4qT5GLT2nqXeHiZYaOH9gLDIq_quleFWqppJTO3gYaAiNtEALw_wcB

Then can I have your wheel centre caps Land V8 Rover ?😃

That will be the Bosch relay then with the parallel terminals 😋 therefore the oxy heaters and fuel pump are working simultaneously ... so Ooops I made a error the relay is not the change over variety although the LR diagram shows it as 87 & 87a.

The correct relay for the V8 EFI system fitted to the D1 has terminal 87 and terminal 87a which is a change over relay, according to the disco’s EFI diagram. There another relay with a dual 87 terminals are just in parallel, plus theres the common relay with a single 87 terminal.

The symptoms that your disco has is very similar failing immobiliser. Fortunately as you have a1994 disco you don’t have the passive ‘spider’ immobiliser which was introduced with the 1996MY disco which is known to have issues, such as intermittent starting, it happened to me, but a single wire overcame that issue so fortunately no need to remove the front of the dash. Testing your pump relay is simple when remover, just a 12v supply and a multimeter is all that’s required, if you can hear it clicking your halfway there, or of course you could just replace it. Do you know where to find the relay? The ignition amplifier on your vehicle is attached to the distributor so could fail intermittently due to the hot environment in that area. LR moved the amp to a new location with the 1996MY and positioned it near to the coil at the rear of the slam panel on it own heat sink and linked it back to the distributor with is own dedicated cable. So no heat issues. That’s it and now back to work.

Drain holes! For owners that open and tilt their sunroof while it’s covered with water, hence drains only at the front of the sunroof. 💦

Why go to the trouble of making something that’s water tight to replace the sunroofs, when all u have to do is replace one or both of the existing seals.

Remove it and give it a quick spray of brake cleaner, they have been known to carbon up but normally they are clean unless there’s a underlying course.

An automatic and it’s stalling? Try cleaning the crankcase breather (flame trap) and the hose leading to the plenum chamber first. I had a similar issue when I owned a 3.5 RR other wise 🤔 I didn’t know.

My Haynes manual diagrams seem ok to me, but then I’ve never had to use them them. Bit I’ll do a screen print of page from my book if u wish.

That’s normal, those vents are just for outside fresh air, u are talking about the dash centre vents?