teabag

Some of us know it's an early model by the wheels fitted, is a 1999MY disco. The D1 was the 1998MY and was still in the dealers showroom alongside the D2 in mid/late 1998. I had one given to me as a courtesy car when my D1 was in for it service but it did tempt me in getting one.

Well it's not Epsom green.

Quad turbo.... where?.

It was well known that ultrasonic only movement detectors can go over sensitive and cause false alarms due to hot air turbulence and even by a leaf falling from a plant, that's why in the commercial security industry we don't use them any more even if they were still available, duel technology detectors are used now. Anyway back with the disco, set the alarm with the key and unset with the fob, if no more problems then replace the detector/s as they are now over sensitive unfortunately they can't be adjusted... or just remove from the headlining and unplugged and refit back into the headlining.

Iffy PCB solder joints in the window ECU maybe, it's a common issue according to the Forums. There are a few threads with pictures somewhere on the www.

Some one is thinking of bank vaults that use air pressure or the lack of it as one means of sensoring, but the disco uses ultrasonic movement detection nothing to do with pressure as it uses sound waves. Any movement within the cab will trigger the alarm when set although they are not that sensitive in a disco, why not try setting your alarm with the key, this will isolate the ultrasonic movement detector.. If your issue then goes away u know that you have a faulty unit therefore requires replacing. There's two units believe in a D2.

The drains are only at the front of both sunroofs and if water is reaching them with the sunroof closed the glass seal must be faulty or the glass itself out off adjustment.

Nope, that is it just the two seals keeping water out.

It was NOT intended as so...but just info I have gathered over the 17 years of one disco ownership, wish it could still be the same with the RRc but thats part of a very distant past...lol.

Auto was always an option for the D1 & 2 until the 2004MY ES Premium.

Of course u can if a RRS has 18" wheels, there's hub adaptors available to do this if you wish.

There should be a white socked behind both head lamps on a 97 ES, they connect the fog lamps that an ES has.

I've only had to use diff-lock twice in the 27 years I've had one, and that was in a bit of snow recently and it engaged at 30mph with out any issues. But perhaps you should read your owners handbook because that info is in there, or better still tell LR that their information in the book is wrong.

Diff-lock can be engaged or disengaged at any road speed, so no need to stop. However, with the vehicle in motion it is ESSENTIAL to be travelling on firm ground, in a straight line and without wheel slip, therefore DO NOT engage diff-lock if one or more wheels arre slipping... This will damage the transmission.... according to the disco owners handbook. Driving on a normal surface with the differential locked the steering will feel stiff and excessive tyre wear will occur with the transmission 'wound up'. Again, all the info is in the owners handbook.

Lots? The black connector that u have found spare behind each headlamp is for the headlamp self levelling servo if fitted.

Electric windows along with central locking, alarm and immobiliser are standard on the 300 series what ever level of spec the vehicle is in the UK. If you can find any wiring incased in yellow sleeving, that is for SRS, the SRS ECU will be positioned below the centre cubby box if the system was fitted.

I sure u know the difference in a flat non SRS steering wheel and raised one equipped with an air bag and which will have SRS stamped on it.

Trailer indicator flashing would be normal if a trailer was plug in, and only once when it isn't, u may have a short in the trailer socket so take it apart clean and grease, if still the same u maven have a faulty or incorrect flasher relay fitted. A sales brochure will give u the spec and options for your model year of disco, they can be found on e bay, now and again.

The ABS will illuminate next time u start the vehicle and then extinguish when the vehicle reaches approx 5mph. It usually a worn hub according to the forums if is on with normal running.

Same additional kit is required what ever the make of system, although some have a CL interface already built in, you will still need a replacement actuator in the drivers door, should u ever require the doors locking using the alarm remote.

The info you had to your previous question no good then?

IIRC Yellow which along with the white and the red/white can be picked up where all three enter the front of the fuse board, so no need to go to the switch its self. Or there's two spare terminals in a vertical formation on the lower right hand side of the fuse box, one of the these is live with the IGN on, I have my phone kit connected there.

Yes and Yes.All u need is a Cobra alarm with remote fobs, a central locking interface plus a new master actuator (has extra wires) to replace the existing drivers door item both additional items are in Cobra's price list. So pressing the fob sets the alarm and locks the doors or the reverse. Cobra supply very good wiring diagrams showing how the bits of kit link together. Only because of a colour change when using existing wiring, a little bit of understanding on how the master actuator works and linked to your existing slave actuators in the remaining doors, which u will be reusing, is required....Job done.

Cobra remote central locking kit interfaced with the alarm/immobilise kit. The amount of work involved depends on what u already have.

According to RAVE: "Ambient temperature sensor. The ambient temperature sensor is an encapsulated thermistor that provides the ATC ECU with an input of external air temperature. The sensor is attached to the cooling fan mounting bracket in front of the condenser." And there's a plug/socket shown so yes its replaceable.