teabag

That's all it is, ignition switched supplies, one to the starter motor or maybe the relay, the other is to the fuel pump or whatever ever a Diesel has in the engine bay that the two items that the immobiliser isolates, so no that difficult to do, an hour or so if you wish to be neat in that way you install the additional wiring. Pull the fuses and power down the security ECU (green box) and leave it in situ, job done. And if you really mis the central locking you can aways install a aftermarket central locking ECU. In the mean time pull the fuse or unplug the ECU and see what happens.

No not just the alarm on its own. Powering down the security system and the ECU will remove the alarm plus the immobiliser which if it isn't already bypassed you will have to install the now missing two circuits that were used to immobilise the engine, you will also lose the central locking function. But it that's on an unmolested system, sort out that wiring first to understand why it's has be altered.

Lock with fob or key to isolate the ultrasonic movement detector, but only unlock with the fob. Unlocking with the key will set off the alarm. I have the wiring diagrams in my Haynes work shop manual, so either get your self the manual or download from the www LRs mechanical and electrical manuals called RAVE, but the don't show wiring in the the security system as u would expect.

How doors can think they are still locked is beyond me, anyway what you have is "bounce back" where the master actuator operating rod isn't moving retracting or extending fully. Just a simple adjustment is required, so after you have removed the door card slightly loosen the four screws holding the actuators mounting plate and very slightly move the plate forward or backward pressing the fobs locking and unlocking buttons, u only have to move the plate a mm or two, when the position of the plate is correct and every thing is locking/unlocking via the fob the four Also give the actuator a quick splash of wd40 at the end of the operating arm and into the motor as the grease around the drive cog can hard.. Job done.

If I remember right, I just fully extended the blind and let it slowly retract, the blind is longer than it appears.

We do know that a 300tdi auto doesn't have a spider immobiliser and it has so call 'drive by wire' EDC, disco's don't fly. " on off the immobiliers till i can get the car to start" doesn't say much... that may be the reason u haven't received any replies, so a bit more info is required. What makes you think the problem is an immobiliser issue? Does the engine crank? Does the red led on the dash extinguish when the fob is placed ne'er the ignition switch? Does the engine start after u have enter the emergency access code to override the alarm and immobiliser? Plus anything else u can think of that will be helpful.

Disco 2's use the ABS sensor feed as the speedo pulse source. The OP states Td5... ffs

If not familiar with speed sensors just Google, u would then find that a D2 td5 or V8 doesn't sense the vehicle speed from the transfer box, also perhaps you would like to explained about a sensor having a top speed reading.

I now know what your after, I started looking for similar info for my engine and I found it in the pages at the beginning of my LR D1 parts catalogue, so along with the VIN identification there's serial number identification for all the engines, gearboxes and axles fitted to the D1. If you or someone has access to a genuine D2 parts catalogue with luck you may find similar info in the front of it, which may help U.

Copied from RAVE, there may be more info there if you search, all I had time for in my search is how engines are identified on the VIN plate. UK disco's don't have low comp engines. VIN Number example SALLTGM87WA600172 SAL Manufacturer's identifier (Land Rover UK) LT Marque/Model LT = Discovery G Class A = Japan G = 100 inch M Body Style B = 5 door models 8 Engine 1 = 4.0 V8 LC Cat 2 = 4.0 V8 HC Cat 3 = 4.0 LC Non Cat 8 = TD5 engine EGR/Cat 9 = TD5 engine EGR/ Non Cat 7 Transmission and Steering 3 = RHD automatic gearbox 4 = LHD automatic gearbox 7 = RHD manual gearbox 8 = LHD manual gearbox W Model Year W = 1998 Model year X = 1999 Model year Y = 2000 Model year 1 = 2001 Model year 2 = 2002 Model year 3 = 2003 Model year A Assembly plant A = Solihull F = KD build 6 figures= Serial number

D2 V8 have 9.35: CR, in the UK spec same as all the other disco 3.9s before, also 3.5s unless it was fitted with a catalyst, l don't see why Australia should be any different.

No. You need a Alpine head unit that has the control compatiblity for your multi CD player, or the other way round get a Becker multi CD player. Its the same with all manufacturs Sony, Pioneer, Philips etc etc.

There's two,both in the passenger footwell, green abs warning + black abs pump, both relays are side by side on the fixed relay bracket... Not the hinged bracket.

The led's are picking up a quiescent voltage as they do some times when mis- matched or installed to a electronic circuit incorrectly So either increase the LEDs resistance, fit a diode maybe or wire the LED to the fog lamps feed, or get the correct momentary switch if that what they use, also u could use a conventional LED illuminated switch and then hard wire to the fog lamp relays if you won't the exert work. Most LED drivers now include components to stop the dim glow issue maybe your switch doesn't.

It's also is a symptom of brake fade, something I've never had although have the same brakes as a tdi although I don't have a vacuum pump to go wrong but the lack vacuum would make the pedal harder to press would it not. As there's no info on the condition of the brakes I suspect your friend's disco has brake fluid hasn't been changed in a while and may also have iffy pads both items are a course of fading, or to change his driving style may help and select a lower gear ratio when descending a hill.

You dont say what model year of disco the engine comes from, so I will assume before 1995 and so this diagram will help.

Check the simplest things first, crank case breather and air filter is clean, disconnect and reconnect the vehicles battery to reset the EFI ECU, and for any leaks in the hoses connected to the plenum chamber.

True... never ever had issues with manual winders fitted to the cars from my past.. They knew how to manufacture the kit back then maybe.But saying that it's only my disco that I've had problems, the window regulators failed on three windows over the years perhaps because they are hardly opened due to AC running most of the time.

Oh dear, we are now in a more modern world, I haven't bought a car with manual windows for the last 40 years, and that one I still have and its sitting in the garage.

Yes, for the basic model. http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=813178&SPRACHE=EN So just search the part numbers on web for a stockist.

Yes u are right that the ES was the top of the range in its day although there was an ES Premium. It was from the 1996MY ES onwards that had electric sunroofs as standard, manual for 1994/5 The headling will remain the same with an electric conversion, all u have to find is the motors, front and rear switches and their plastic housing, wiring and the ecu. The drain to tubes are not provided in case of a leaking sunroof, thats why they are only at the front of the sunroof and as such any water running into them is purely coincidental (unless u tilt the glass its wet) and then only if the glass seal has failed, if the frame seal is off then water could go straight onto the headline.

There's no reason why u can't install a horn style alarm sounder. I never found the pin-out info but the wiring to the existing sound could follow the simple format of a permanent supply to charge the battery, a switch live in an alarm condition and the ground connection, plus there could be an additional wire to provide the mis-lock sound a facility that u may loose. All you need to do is see with a multimeter, what condition u have on each wire at the plug, and the same again with the system an alarm state to find the 12v you require to supply the replacement sounder in that condition. Simples really.

As the trailer dash indicator works on resistance to give u the indication of the additional indicator bulb function u could have either Iffy bulbs, bulb holders, or wiring or the relay holder or perhaps the relay, but as u have replace that without any change it won't be that. So there's a few bits to look at, if u have the time do one bit at a time then test, which will help find the exact point of issue.

No really, the battery is replaceable but there's no diagnostics or circuit info for the PCB to be able to determine if there is an issue with it, so replacement is the best option although if second hand the battery will now be useless.. The battery in my unit only lasted four years from new so 15 years without this function, I've never bothered to replace it, although I'm in the security industry. The BBUS was only installed to meet the upgraded Thatcham security regs by LR for the 300 series and later on vehicle security. Building security systems have a similar battery back and the same issues with battery's failing.