teabag

The early disco tow bar is the same item that was fitted to the RRc, the bolts go through the chassis which is braced in manufacturing by welding a metal tube through the chassis . http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=815874&SPRACHE=EN http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=815901&SPRACHE=EN

Sorry to hear of your medical issues ThreeSheds, hope you soon return to normal. Yes it is a bit of a chore releasing the wheel nut after they have been torqued up to something like 95-100 lbs/ft for a few months but I can do it with the standard LR supplied wrench if I had to, I now use an extendable wrench which is a lot well a bit easer, then I use the spider to spin off the nuts and also spinning them back on, using my torque wrench to nip the nuts tight. My problem now is lifting the heavy wheel back on the hub and keeping it there while fitting the first nut. Back to the nuts, there are wheel nuts available for the Disco alloys made from a solid steel, so without the factory fixed cover on the nuts, I've seen them on eBay, they may be even stainless as they very shiny and look quite good, so have look they may be what your looking for.

I've never used or had a tyre shop use rattle gun on any of my vehicles wheels, anyway who uses them now on alloy wheels, I had tyres replaced on my disco three years ago at the local KwikFit and there wasn't a gun to be seen, just the 'spiders' and of course the important torque wrench . If the vehicle is maintained there shouldn't be an issue in releasing wheel nuts , I suspect there's still the cowboys about that will release and tighten wheel nuts fitted to alloy wheels.

Well to give the same amount of bass you will have to build a cabinet with a similar volume to the rear door. Or you could try an active bass box which includes an amplifier, there are items that will slide under a seat will give the equivalent bass that the existing rear door unit does, all you then have to do is extend the two 12v feeds (permanent and switched) and the audio feed that the existing amplifier has to the new unit, simples.

Yes. But then it's possible to remove the the fans electrical supply.

Yes, it's a symptom that your engine has overheated and for engine safety the condenser fan has cut - in, as designed. Unfortunately unlike the D1 the D2 system latches therefore it needs to be plugged into a diagnostic unit to reset back to normal.

The so call 300 series D1 95 MY onwards diesel or petrol speedo head (they are both the same) is driven via a signal transducer which is mounted on the transfer box, the later disco 2s td5 or V8 the speedo receives a signal from the abs wheel speed sensors via the BCM ECU

Although I thought my old 1987 RR, that's before the days of being called 'classic', the lights wen't brilliant compared with the car I had before, reduced no doubt by the tinted windscreen that's fitted to the RR, so I replace the head lamps with the Cibies items, and the change in light output was dramatic still using the existing bulbs, it would been unbelievable if the Xenon gas filled 120 % etc bulbs were available then. Anyway forget about rewiring the lighting circuit there's no need, the relay (with additional complications) kits available are for the 50-60s vehicles that may or not benefit depending on the state of their wiring now.

early D1 manual seats have the same base

Rapid flashing of the red led isn't an issue, what makes you think it is? As soon as u unlock with the fob u should be remobilised therefore u can gen the vehicle and start the engine, if there a delay in doing that after a short time the system will immobilise the engine indicated by the flashing key simbol in the dash, placing the fob near the ign switch will remobilise the engine again. As for a clicking relay if the was immobilised there would silence when tuning the key in the switch, so it the click is the starter relay clicking so do as stated in the post above, or with a piece of wire connect 12v to the starter solenoid . if you have an auto the EDC pump will also be controlled by the immobiliser.

The more expensive ESR3730P is for the VA vin vehicle onwards I'm afraid, the other is for the earlier vehicles. As you can see there's a difference in length between them.

Oh no it doesn't, this it the exact wording quoted from my copy "Raise the head restraint to its uppermost position and press the locking collar." If that doesn't work in releasing then you have a problem.

Subs are mono, the rear loud speakers are stereo and a higher frequency. Installl a sub from the preamplifier of the head unit and adjust the gain according. No preamp then get a head unit that has one. Simples.

Well I have had my D1 V8 for twenty years this month, although it hasn't done a lot of mileage the only time a spanner has touch it is in servicing fluids, filters etc and spark plugs + replacement of a water pump, when the bearing failed as 40k miles so I'm happy with the D1, as I was with my RR for the 10 years of ownership, but the cam failed with that vehicle at 100K mileseven though it was main dealer serviced all its life, I had that replaced and then I sold it a year later, again I'm happy with the V8. The cam can be replace with the engine block insitu. it will depend on what the vehicle has done in its life, number of owners, off reading, or on staying on the Tarmac like my disco what u pay and what issues you will get basically like any other vehicle. And they rust, so they tell me

Manifold to Y pipe gasket is possibly again faulty. I had one fail a few years a go it sounded like a machine gun under load. I carried on with it for four months until the service was due when the gearbox fluid and filter was changed, as the exhaust has to be dropped, anyway it just cost me the two replacement gaskets and no additional labour charge.

It's the seal that's letting water into the vehicle not the plastic clips that are retaining the roller sun blind. Look and understand the design on the sunroof, and then hopefully you'll then know why there are 'drains' only at the front. The ultimate solution is don't use the sunroof then they won't leak they are something I've never wanted, mine are only opened once a year for 10 minutes to clean and check, then shut so have never leaked

Understand the design of the sun roof, then you will know why the drains are only at the front. They are not fitted in case the glass seal is faulty.

There's just two seals used for the sunroof, the frame to the vehicles roof and the glass seal, so one of them is faulty, water as I'm sure u know will run to another lowest point before appearing.

Also, if you are finding it difficult to find a replacement throttle position sensor and therefore considering the mechanical system is included looking for a 1994 or 1995MY tdi auto as they were fitted with a mechanical system. Electronic Diesel Control came in with the 1996MY tdi auto to improve acceleration times by increasing engine power to 120bhp.

The ac fan running continually for a short while after switching off is normal IF the engine bay and cooling system has a high temperature. Usually happens with my disco on a very hot summers day, ac on plus the two exhaust manifolds makes for a very hot under bonnet situation after a drive. If the ac fan is on all the time while the engines running then the only way to cancel it is to plug the system in to to a diagnostic kit.

Petrol and diesel fillers are the same on the 300 series disco's, well they are in the UK .. http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=807100&SPRACHE=EN

https://www.lrdirect.com/STC50550-Gasket-Adhesive/

There doesn't seem to be a service kit available, but the two links below show what an after market item would cost in the UK. Do u know any one n the UK who could receive the item and forwarded it on to you? I could give you an idea of the carriage cost if I knew the weight of it. http://www.paddockspares.com/anr2157-pas-pump-300tdi.html https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR2157-Pas-Pump-300Tdi-Rrds90-110/

Try these tests at the CC ECU which are for a UK spec D1 Ground Test - From pin 8 (black wire) on the cruise control module plug perform a continuity test to good chassis ground. Main voltage test - With ignition & cruise control system on, transfer in high (non difflock) & auto box in 'drive' connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) and pin 10 (white & yellow wire) you should have battery voltage if not check fuse. Secondary voltage test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) and pin 9 (Purple & Green wire) you should have battery voltage if not check lock out relay or gear selection switch. Brake Pedal Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 5 (green & purple wire). Press the brake pedal, you should get battery voltage. Steering Wheel Set / Accel Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 3 (red & white wire). Press the Set / Accel button, you should get battery voltage. Steering Wheel Res / Decel Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 4 (blue & white wire). Press the Set / Accel button, you should get battery voltage. Vacuum Pump Test - Using a jumper wire connect pin 10 (white & yellow wire) to pin 1 (white & blue) this provides power to the pump. Then using a jumper wire connect pin 6 (black & yellow) AND pin 7 (black & red) to pin 8 (black wire). This should energise the pump & solenoid and the bellows should contract. Speed Sensor Test - Connect a volt meter between pin 8 (black) and pin 11 (yellow & pink), drive the motor around the block, voltage should increase as speed increases. Pete

They call that progress you might find more info here: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/waterpump.html