Orange

The overhang is longer on a D2, so it won't fit. Likewise with towbars...

It's a bit difficult to explain... Put the rubber around the glass, then put 2 lengths of strong string around the inside of the rubber (where it will fit over the panels), then with the aid of some lubrication around the inner edge of the rubber (I use washing up liquid) push the glass into the hole and pull the string to flip the inner lip over the panel. Then comes the hard part..... Fitting the filler strip (if it has one) is not the easiest of tasks, but it can be done without the proper tool. It will need to be well lubricated and will take quite a while with a thin bladed screwdriver or pallette knife. I have access to the proper tool, but the one I did at the weekend (90 truck-cab quarter light) was a right pain!! Hope that helps a bit...

Cheers Ralph. Much obliged.

I have a multi-car policy with Admiral. They cover the Disco 2 and the wife's Leon, but they weren't interested in the 90 as it's officially a commercial vehicle and a bit modified!! If the vehicles are fairly standard, then they may be worth an ask...but I see from your profile that you are in NI, so I don't know whether they'll be able to help.

Have looked on the Bearmach fast-parts downloads, but the Defender one isn't listed... Disco 300TDi part number is PCF101590 Is the Defender one the same? Also, are the 200TDi variants the same?? The Disco one just states 'TDi models' so I am assuming that they are the same between the 2 engines... Cheers Adrian

Last Sunday was the Newbury 4x4 and agricultural sort-out - otherwise known as 'Old Sodbury', or 'new old sodbury, or sodbury sort-out, or...... It's on twice a year in April and October... Can't help on any coming up, but a quick look in the forum calendar might reveal more info...

Three methods that I have used to stop the thread spinning: 1/ Put the jack between the chassis and drag link and apply downward pressure so the taper sits firmly in the hole. 2/ Use an impact gun (air or battery powered) - possibly not an option at the drop-arm end... 3/ An elaborate system of levers and fulcrums to do the same as number 1...

I’ve been asked to advise (stop laughing) on a 'reputable' garage to carry out a bit of restoration work and an engine upgrade on a 2.5TD 90 CSW (F plate). Basically, the vehicle is owned by someone quite well off, but rather than chop it in and get another, he’s minded to spend a bit of money on what he’s got. I haven’t viewed the vehicle, but as far as I can work out from the pictures I've been shown, there is a little bit of chassis welding to be done, he wants a new set of doors (including the rear door), a few cosmetic panel repairs and an upgrade to a 200 or 300TDi along with the gearbox and transfer box. My ideas of garages to recommend extend to Gigglepin and another local garage called Dipsticks Garage, but I’m not sure it’s really up their street... Time isn’t an issue as he has 3 other Range Rovers to use while this one is absent. The idea is to hand over the 90 and the garage can work on it as and when they have time and/or can get the parts... Can anyone recommend a garage that might entertain this type of work in the Kent/Surrey/Essex area? Travelling isn't too much of an issue as it's all road legal. TIA Adrian

Put the nut back on (and make sure the other end of the drag link is still secured) and apply some lifting pressure with a jack under the arm, then give the bracket a tap as you have been doing already.....this method has never failed me. As mentioned above, apply a liberal coating of copper grease when putting back together.

Oh, OK!!! I suppose it's less of a tramlining issue, then... More of a rutting issue!

Try local independant places. I picked up my set of 255/55R18 GB AT2s for £105 per corner fitted and balanced. They were considerably cheaper than a new set of Goodyear Wrangler road tyres, which is what tipped the scales in the favour of the Grabbers....... You may find that local places don't stock them, but can order them in if you leave a deposit or pay up front. I don't have any issues with tramlining on 18"s with ATs.........and the roads are utter carp round here!!

I like the idea David....... Or perhaps: B.....E....A...Utiful!!! Sorry Bish, couldn't resist!!

If you are thinking of a rear winch, too, can I suggest the North Off Road rear winch crossmember??..... Very nicely made and can come with side extensions if you want them (for a little extra, of course), fits like a glove and is cheaper than the D44 one. When I bought mine it was approximately £300 cheaper, but I think D44 have seen the light and reduced the price of theirs... The only drawback to the NOR one is the paint used. It's a right b#gger to clean up to weld!! No connection, just a happy customer WRT fitting, we cut my old one off and fitted the NOR one using the rear tub brackets and a stool that was conveniently the right height. No dramas and it's made big enough to slide over the existing chassis rails (as long as the chassis is good enough to keep) so you can puddle weld into the holes provided in the new extensions.

My list is very detailed with makes and models where available. To use your example, a 'long travel suspension kit' varies in quality and price depending on who you've bought it from. I would like to see my expenditure covered by like for like. I've even told them what size my modular steel wheels are!!! It's up to you how specific you are. For example, if you have (like me) a rear winch, you might change it, so you might just say that it's got a low-line 9500lbs rear winch. Once you are settled on which one you are going to leave fitted, tell them the make/model...

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!! Unless you have a bog-standard 4x4, they are no good in my experience! They even tried to be particularly rubbish with my standard Disco when a numpty drove into it, but I got it sorted in the end. I won't use them again!!

I'm also with Academy and have had no issues with modifications and actually being insured, I did, however, have to stamp my feet a bit to get some headed paper with an acknowledgement of my modifications on it. Even then it only refers to a 'list' and is not specific. To be honest, the best thing I have found is to send them a list every time you apply for/renew insurance and also whenever the list changes. Which reminds me..........must update and resend the list!!

Short of that, a scan through the For Sale section will reveal a load of Discoverys being broken so you should manage to find a complete new glovebox for not a lot of money.

What about the vertical ones on the wings of a normal Range Rover... Maybe not quite in that style, but look for something similar. They look to have a much larger area than the standard 200/300TDi ones... Short of that, Nige, you could always cut a hole and knock up your own vent out of 6mm - after all, it doesn't need to be structural!!!

It depends which 'fused' hubs you mean... If it's the one-piece mushroom head type (large/bulky flange) then I believe they will, but if it's the one-piece thinner/flatter type pictured below then they won't. (The later ones came with two different flanges - fixed and removable, but they are the same fitment in diff/hub terms). Again, with the 90, if it's the mushroom headed ones then yes, but the flatter ones won't fit. As far as I know, anyway!!

TD5 I presume... Replace the track rod (one piece affair available from LR or Bearmach for sure). Solved the problem when I had the same symptoms... I'm even beginning to think that I've got the same problem on my 90.

Pictures......will that mean I'll have to tidy up the quick slap of paint I gave them??!!! There doesn't appear to be an issue with balancing at the moment (been for a couple of jaunts since fitting them), but the steering lock may be an issue... They definitely seem to rub 'slightly' on the radius arms!!!

As Matt has said previously, the 200TDi sump is sealed with sealant rather than a gasket. Use RTV or 'instant gasket' and it will be fine. You should have 3 longer bolts at the front end as the sump bolts also locate the bottom of the main timing chest. I would suggest getting some new ones...

Is there a breather pipe on the off-side (drivers) that rises up towards the top of the engine? The dip-stick tube, IIRC, enters the side of the block, so shouldn't interfere with removing the sump...

If you look carefully, some of the vehicles they have pictured in the LRO booklet have had many months more modification done to them since the pictures were taken... I looked back through my collection of magazines from 2007 and found exactly the same picture published in the main magazine on one of their monthly articles on green lanes...

Local council is the most certain way to dget a definitive answer. Ask to speak to the Rights of Way Officer and try to make his/her life a little easier by providing some grid references of the lanes you are looking to drive...