mickeyw

LR fitted adapters to a std master cylinder anyway, and indeed these remain part of the circuit. To tap out the remote cylinder unnecessarily risks getting swarf in critical places, but moreover I'd say there isn't a lot of spare metal in the casting. Oh and modifying parts like that invalidates their warranty. ? Pretty sure I had the adapters anyway, and why make more work...

Indeed I am talking early Rover axle, 24 spline both ends Other than the title in which the OP asks whether these could be Salisbury shafts, there is no indication that these came from a 90 or 110, Rover or Salisbury axle. I'll see if I can get to the shafts to measure them.

Looks like that should withstand Scottish weather's best efforts

They look very much like drum braked rear shafts, as used with the 4-pin diffs fitted to early V8 Ninetys, also available as a HD axle option in other engine configurations. I have a pair in my garage

Ah, I had forgotten about that. I extended the side plates (welded bits on) to enable holes to be drilled through to suit the Defender chassis.

Something I think I'm guilty if is not always recognising my own achievements. I frequently have to look back at all the things I've made or fixed, or cleaned. Even sorting out my bench is rewarding, especially the next time I go out to the garage and find I actually have somewhere to work on parts. You refer to evenings spent drawing parts up - these are achievements too and should be included in the white board/ to do list. I like to break every job down into tiny bites, so I have more frequent job done feelings as I cross off another item. Currently I've just cleared enough carp from my garage and into a new shed. I can now not only get to the shelves in the garage, get into the RRC that's living in there and even get to my lathe that's been unused for over 2 years since we moved in.I'm now cleaning the lathe up, attending to some rusty handles etc. The feeling is great - almost like being able to breathe again after the suffocating frustration of not being able to get to anything. When I look back at the last 2 years I've done one heck of a lot, but it hasn't stopped me feeling darned miserable at times, because all I was seeing was what lay ahead rather than all my achievements. It's taken a lot for me to see things in the right light, and I'm sure I'll need to give myself a talking to again at some point . Sorry for the rambling , I hope there's something of use in there. Good luck with your projects.

The series Hi Lo lever is solidly connected to the gears, so as long as you have it fully pushed forward it should be high. If you're in low gears, 20-25 mph will be flat out. You don't mention whether the lack of speed is due to a lack of power, or because the poor thing's screaming itself silly due to no more gears available. The original 2.25 diesel could manage 55-60 mph, so unless your engine is a very low revving unit (possibly from an industrial application) you should be able to make at least that speed. I mean we you have a 2.8 turbocharged engine, and that should easily outrun the original engine. Welcome to the joys of classic Landrovers ?

Retro style is cool ?. The banded Rostyles I've seen look great. I'd love Wolfs on my 110, if they had the width and offset of my cheap modulars. I know it can be done, but I expect the cost would put me off ... I'd also be concerned about insurance implications of banded rims.

Did that have anything to do with it being tubed? ?

My dad's hobby is flying model aircraft, some of which are powered by elastic bands. When he 'fuels' a plane for flight he uses a special device for winding the band a known number of turns. One of his mates showed him how to make a digital counter by hacking a tiny keying calculator from the Pound shop to be triggered by a Hall effect sensor. So to use this he enters something like 1++ into the calculator and winds the handle. Each turn of the winder effectively presses the = key, and the total increases by 1 per turn. This could also work for counting down. Ok its not the best solution, but costs next to nothing. I'm sure Si could advise on how to build such a device.

I'm in the process of fitting Silentcoat. I'm using the 2mm butyl pads wherever I can, the carpet over that where practical. I also have a heavy rubber mat on the load area. This is on a 110 CSW.

This ^^^ Turners are the pinnacle of quality and helpfulness IMO, oh and they're nice and local to me too ? They've worked on 4 and 8 cyl Rover engines for me as part built units for me to assemble.

I have one of Clive's masterpieces waiting to fit to my 110. I must raise this up the to do list. I dealt with him by phone and text, and he was happy to take the time to discuss my specific requirements. He's also happy to accommodate your custom needs. Top chap. Again, no interest other than a happy customer.

Like Toby, I have both cans fitted, and it's certainly subdued/refined, and not remotely V8 like from the driver's seat. Maybe I need to rig up a small microphone by the tail pipe to find out what it sounds like from there. The original 3.5 factory pipes, are in fact that same system (other than the Y pipe) as the 2.5 diesel. I took them off as I've found in the past they are rather restrictive for a 3.9. They do give a distinct V8 sound without being at all intrusive. It would be good to return to that sound track I've toyed with removing the centre box, as there are after market removal pipes available off the shelf. I suspect though that it'll make things far too raucous. I can't see that removing the rear box will make much of a difference. I also considered a change of centre box, for something like a Thrush Turbo muffler. I do at least know someone that had one of these fitted to a challenge 90, and that wasn't especially obnoxious...

That is one example of some fine workmanship. He's made an incredible job of that RR. Arjan, buy it if you can. I'd love a 2 door. My first memories of the classic were a J plate 2-door (same year as Jason has pictured) that belonged to a friend of my parents who used it for his pest control business. Given that it would have been about 1979/80 that Rangey had been very poorly looked after in it's short life. Still it struck me (as a 9 year old) as something special at the time.

Iain, I'm so pleased to hear you're still with us, and on the mend.

I have an idea Miketomcat has used the Disco servo. I seem to recall mention of some modifications being required to something to get the Disco servo and Defender MC to link up. Mike????

Snap! That happened to me years back. Fortunately I was going a mere walking pace when the truck was brought to a violent halt. The pinion fell back and jammed the crownwheel it made quite a mess of the teeth. A second hand diff should be the easiest and cheapest solution. Plenty of Discos being broken all the time. As BM says, make sure the axle tube is clean inside and fit another, fill with oil and go.

Quite a LOT of machining ?

It should be possible. You'll need a longer prop shaft though, and this will be non standard. Another option is to use a prop spacer, but I don't recall how different the nose lengths are. You'll also need to use your original spring 90 seats. 110/130 springs are larger diameter.

Don't many commercial users just use vinyl graphics to blank out the glass? This deals with sign writing all in one go too. Otherwise a sheet of ally would do the job with a bit of anti vibration material affixed.

Mine was also NTO, advertised as Td5/Puma. There seen to be many part numbers for late model years but I failed to figure out the differences. The brackets all seem the same as far as I can tell.

My old 90 originally had rear drums, and also was fitted with a G-valve down below the footwells. This is basically an inertia compensating device. The harder you brake, the less bias you want to the rear. If it's faulty (seized) perhaps that could be causing the bias issues you have. It might be worth re-bleeding all the brake lines, just in case...

I'm definitely agreeing on the earth being the issue. If I recall the lighting earth bolts to the inner wing. You may have a good clean joint here, but how does the wing get back to the rest of the car's electrics? If you were to temporarily take a live wire to a spare bulb and earth the bulb directly to the inner wing do you get good illumination? A lot of corrosion can develop where the wing bolts to the rest of the vehicle. Having just re-read you first post I realise you actually have a good main beam, so that rather shakes my suggestions. IMO sources of poor electrical flow are corroded joints, esp bullet connectors, loose connections, also old wiring where the core of the wire has gone black with age and moisture ingress. I feel your pain. I've spent too much time tracking wiring issues my myself in the past ?

Unfortunately there are a lot of people that do not seem capable of making a sound safety assessment of their own winching equipment. Both types of rope can break through abuse, but there is a greater chance to injure yourself on a frayed steel rope when rigging it. How obvious it is that a rope is ready to fail is largely down to experience, but it can still be hard to tell. Although I use a synthetic rope due to club requirements as a recovery marshall, I am a firm believer that steel is perfectly up to the job when in good condition and used in a safe manner. As I also use my winch for agricultural purposes I am often conscious that a synthetic rope is more easily damaged in that environment, and when you take the price difference into account it does make you think twice how you use the winch. I think steel would always make more sense in a commercial application. If you're talking about winch challenge events, synthetic is far nicer to use - it's far lighter to carry, doesn't tangle like an angry snakes, and is safer on the hands. It's also far more tolerant to poor spooling into the drum, and given the speed of today's competition winches, that is an area that is difficult to control. Most badly damaged steel rope is caused by bad spooling where there is insufficient tension on the rope when paying in, and a loose loop gets pinched and damaged. As ever it's one of these instances where any equipment can be highly dangerous in the wrong hands. As Steve has linked to, Goodwinch is now offering a cheaper synthetic rope which is more likely to appeal to the play day or less frequent users. I think I'd have greater confidence in this that those auction site specials ?