simonr

I only have five: Sledge Club Copper-Hyde Claw Rubber Or six if you count a fly-press - which doubles as a very fine several ton hammer on occasion! Si

One of our friends (John Morgan) was looking for something like this to find out who is tearing down signs at Slindon. I've mailed him a link! Not badly priced either. I rigged up something like this when my 110 kept being damaged by someone overnight. I didn't get a good enough picture for criminal evidence - but I could tell who it was! Confronted them and at least it stopped! It would have been preferable to just buy one though. It could also be used for: In my last place of work, I took a still photo of each of the toilets (empty) and posted a page in the intranet - "New Toilet-Cam - see if it's in use before you go!" (In my caring head of IT kind of way). It had most people in the call centre running up the road to the public toilets for a day! (April 1st) Si

For new fans - Spal are pretty good - and I'd go with them over Pacet or Kenlowe even if the quoted airflow is less. All the airflow in the world doesn't help you if it's broken! Ones from the scrapper - go for the renalt / peugeot / citroen ones with a 'pancake' motor made by Gate. The motor is large diameter and fairly thin (like a pancake). The motors will survive one hell of a lot of abuse - including running off 24v, powering an electric bar-stool or a certain skate board! Si

It's funny, one of my friends (Simon C) and I were talking about doing this to his 110 last week! We wondered about improving the breakover angle by taking a scallop out of the middle of the chassis and restoring it's rigidity using a cage (possibly a silly idea). Alternatively, fit portals. If you are going to do it however, it might be better to go the whole hog and cut off the overhang just behind the spring mounts and turn it in to a crew cab with just enough room in the rear tub for a spare wheel and your sandwiches. Shorten the front end a bit while you are about it so that the four wheels form the four corners of the vehicle. Si

Not a million miles different from mine! I had one of the ones pictured above - but it suffered from water ingress rather and stopped working after six months with the fan running continuously. Si

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Aaah! that would be telling! <Shhhh>Its Marden Engineering in Crawley. Anodising by A1 in E.Grinstead</Shhh> Si

I must start keeping a diary! I'm sure this clashed with something - but I'm not so sure now! I have an invite to go and do 'show & tell' with TBR UK who are selling one or two bits on our behalf - so will do my best to be there! Si

I would consider a 1.6:1 transfer box. I also have a V8 90 - G reg. I changed mine from 1.2 to 1.4 when I put 35" tyres on - but it still struggles to get up to 70 and the engine is barely red-lineing. I wish now I'd gone for 1.6:1! Si

They are indeed! Si

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Blue seems to be the winner then! I'll order more blue than red. I thought similar until I saw the red. I reckon that mail order, blue would win but at shows probably about level pegging. I in the past have had the kenlow type (it's very like a thermostat from a tea urn!) which must have lasted several weeks before the mud & corrosion got it. I had a variable one like the ones demon tweaks sell which lasted a bit longer but suffered from water ingress and the fan switching became a bit random and then settled on one similar to these with a nut welded to a bit of tube which lasted years! The switch I have ordered is: 88 on, 83 off for the low temp fan and 92 on 87 off for the high temp. If you are running a single fan, then it gives two chances of one being right! On my Tdi I ran a single 92 on 87 off switch which seemed to work OK. A V8 required a fair bit more cooling and the engine generally runs hotter so using a pair of fans with these switch points seemed reasonable. You can always find loads of these switches at breakers yards (mostly single temp though) in a wealth of different temperatures. However, I can order any of the temperature ranges as required and supply in place of the above. I wondered also, if one is running a single fan, about using the high temp switch on the road (more ram effect cooling) and he low temp one off road with a switch in the cab to select between them. As with all things, there are 100's of ways to skin a cat - but the machined bit is a nice easy (and good looking) solution to the most difficult bit (unless you can turn & weld). Si

I have one that automatically stops before the water gets too deep - does that count?

I could retire selling tem at £70! I had figured on £25 for the CNC bit, £30 with a dual fan thermostat (which retails for about £8.20) or £50 for the full wiring kit (waterproof) with a switch to override on and off plus a couple of indicator lights (one for fan running and the other for switched off but should be switched on). It all hangs on the machining costs though! (all including vat) Si

I have a black one too - just ruled it out cos it looks like it's made of plastic! Plastic would work, but you need to be making thousands to make it worthwhile - the moulds & setup is expensive. How much are the demon-tweaks ones? Si

Think it's something to stop it getting caught in your flies? Si

Hopefully by the end of next week. Not sure how much yet, depends on the bill from the CNC & anodising shops! I thought blue too - but today the red has grown on me - hence the question! Si

Have you been surfing for 'exotic pictures' on your ipaq? The speaker is often only connected by a couple of springs / springy metal strips pressing on to the circuit board. Might be worth taking it apart & cleaning? Si

These have just come back as samples from being anodised. Just wondered what your preference is on red or blue - or another colour. Or are they just too bling for under the bonnet of a Landy? In case you've not guessed, they are Billet CNC Machined, anodised fan thermostat adaptors to go in-line with a rad hose. I think they look rather good! Might even fit eleccy fans now! They need to be anodised to stop them going furry - so they might as well look pretty. Si

Is this the answer to the freelander mystery? Si

Jesus - that looks good! Si

43.9 last fill up. Seems to have happened most places. There are several places selling it within a few miles of here and they are all the same price. Si

That would explain why they have been impossible to contact recently! Even Outback Import seem to have gone on walkabout! Any ideas why they are selling up? Si

I'm in partial agreement with nigel, however, a flexible structure (flexible joints connected by rigid bars) can achieve higher strength than a rigid one as a rigid one concentrates forces at fewer intersections than a flexible one. The flexi structure can distribute the forces to more than one vertex. It is also more likely to put the individual bars in straight tension or compression rather than torsion or shear. I would guess at the bolt together joints being more flexible than a welded joint. Thus the calculation of the deformation of the cage in an impact may not be as simple as the shear strength of the bolts in one plate if it takes the brunt of the impact. I would be inclined to change the design of the B post mounts to a single (straight) diagonal from each down to the top or side of the chassis. This is a lot simpler than what you have drawn (although you will have to drill a big hole through the seat box through which to pass the tube). It will also be stronger than what you have drawn. You can increase the strength by adding a tie bar across the width of the vehicle between the top of the diagonals. Under most if not all circumstances this will be in tension and need not be at all heavy. Probably only worth putting such a tie-bar on one of the two B post hoops as they are pretty close together. This is how my C post hoop works, but without the tie bar. Not too bothered if that bit gets a bit squashed! Best bet for trying such things is to build a model from flexi-straws held together with hot glue. You can quickly see where the weak points are by pressing on different intersections. I'll see if I can draw it tomorrow when I'm more awake. Si

No, that's a defender one! You want one from a disco 4 bolt box - usually between £50 & £70 new. I bought mine at sodbury a few years back and it has worked very well. no issues with clearance or geometry at all. Best bit is changing the ball joint - it's a 5 minute job! I bought a QT strengthened steering rod for a series 3 and a clamp on mount for the steering damper for a range rover to as the defender has the steering damper at the front. The steering rod for defenders is too short if you are attaching a regular ball joint as the normal connection to the drop arm ball joint is about 6" long with the damper mounting in the middle. The series 3 one however is exactly the right length. Dave Marsh at QT knows all about it! Si