simonr

I've had a pretty good suspension idea (even if I say so myself) which does not involve computers, pneumatics or anything complicated other than fabrication. I want to try it out first, before I go public with the idea - but I need to source some springs first. What I'm looking for is a pair of springs with a rate of about 70lb/in, a free length of about 400mm and an outside diameter of 100mm. I wondered if any of you know the spec of car springs? Spring data for LR's is easily available - but all the companies I've talked to about car springs first want to know the car it's for to give me the spec rather than finding the car/spring from the spec. I've mailed a couple of companies who wind springs - but no replies as yet. Another alternative might be coil-over springs? I know this is a bit like "I've got a secret - and I'm not going to tell you" - but I will when I've tried it! I've built a model which with a few reservations appears to work - but there's nothing like trying it for real! Mysteriously, Si

I rather like the smell of WD40 - a coke / wd40 cocktail might be interesting Si

Presumably you are referring to the ones with a 22mm or so thread that screw in to the rad on most cars? If so, what is the cheapest source for them? Also, what is/are the best switching temperatures for Land Rovers? Si

James! Surely not off-roading? Count me in! Si

OK, some options then. When you are applying high torque, the engine & gearbox are forced to rotate in the oposite direction to the prop shafts by stretching / compressing the mounts. Make sure the mounts are good - otherwise you will be heading for a more expensive noise (fan hitting radiator or worse). Look for other things that the engine or gearbox could hit if it moves on its mountings. Test using a crow-bar to move. You have not said where the noise sounds like it's coming from? It could be that the backlash was not set right when you installed your ARB? Or that the crown-wheel / pinion mesh is not correct. Have you changed / re-shimmed the pinion bearings? It could be that the crown-wheel is bending away from the pinion under torque (Ashcroft make blocks which push the CW against the pinion - or at least stop it moving away) - however, it is more likely due to incorrect ARB installation, if indeed the noise is coming from the diff. Si

Watch out AliSport! Sure this is just a typo, but it does not want to connect to the snorkel, but between the turbo and engine (to cool the air heated by the compression in the turbo). You do not actually say where you are fitting it? I presume the pipes go in to the wing and double back round the rad to connect with the IC vertical? Looks nice though! Si

Without more info, there are just too many options for what it could be. How about listing the things you've checked. Can you reproduce the noise on the road? How far up a hill do you have to travel to make it appear? Is the noise regular - does it repeat with tyre / prop shaft rotation or is it random, say when you go over a bump? Is it your exhaust rattling? or hitting the prop shaft? Have you chacked your UJ's? Could it be something in the back of your truck rolling backwards & rattling against the back door? Can you describe the noise more accuratly? or think of something else it sounds like?

Me! Mobile Storage Systems - secure, well designed & good value. They are available in several widths - so you can pick one to suit. I find the fact that it acts as an arm rest makes the LR more comfortable if anything - though I should have bought a narrower one. Mine is about 5" wider than the radio and is snug. Si

Well done Andy (and the other brits) - we're proud of you! Si

I received quite a cool thing - a day racing JCB's! Always had a thing about JCB's - even pre dates Land Rovers. Si

Have a jolly crimbo all of you. Only woke up an hour or so ago (1pm) - an ideal start to any day. Si

Me, shorts? (Actually I've got 'em on today - but it is pretty warm). I spoke (finally) to the new owners today and they said they do have a couple of rooms available - so I booked one of them! Les will now be able to hold on to his dinner come bed time and all is right with the world! Si

I'd go with Paul.W's ones (and I did) At least with a spare olive they are rebuildable in the field if you manage to pull the end off. Also, there seems to be a lot of variation in the definition of +2" - most being closer to the +0" length. I bought 3m of tube and now run the brake lines along the hockey sticks with a short loop up to the chassis and back along to the fitting by the spring. It means that the axle can fully articulate without the brake lines being so long they scrape on the road surface! One of the issues with anything longer than +2" is that the loop of spare tube is just asking to get caught on something! Si

I'd like to go - but have been volenteered to go to Hereford with Sarah to visit her sister. I thought refusing to drive might get me out of it - but it seems not. Should have agreed to drive and arranged a mysterious breakdown on the way! Si

Thought I could feel my ears burning! Thanks for the feedback! Just powering it off an ignition circuit is a reasonable alternative - but decided to keep the destructions as simple as possible without too many options! Si

Maybe the god of internet auction sites is listening - this item has gone now. Doesn't say item withdrawn, instead that the ID is unknown - so probably deleted from on high! Si

Tell you what - it seems a bit quiet here now (and you've only been gone a couple of days!) There is no longer a critical mass of people to go to the pub with. There's a danger of me becoming thin at this rate! Si

eBay are pathetic when it comes to enforcing anything. I guess they make their cut regardless! I reported someone selling a laptop with java script in the description which pops up a box asking for your ebay login details then mails them to an ip address. That was a week ago, but it's still there today - clearly just there to harvest peoples ID's There was also a thing on watchdog about people selling positive feedback - generally under the guise of cookie recipies. eBay said they have stamped on this, but the same day there were over 100 listed! Try searching for 'positive feedback' - there are loads today. It makes the whole feedback thing pointless! There are currently 89054 items with western union payment! When you buy something and something completly different turns up - eBay's response was as goods have arrived, there is no case to answer and it is my responsibility to check that the item is what I want! It has made me much more reluctant to buy anything on there. Hopeless. Si

Thanks Les, That's very kind. How do you know about my hairy legs! Si

Better than that! If you can find a Land Rover VSS (Voltage Sensitive Switch) which is fitted in series with the rear de-mist on 90/110s and probably others as well. It is a yellow box, bit like a relay with four terminals and VSS on the side. They are about £90 new, but you can pick them up easily as sodbury & the like from people selling old relays for 50p It monitors the voltage of a battery on two of the terminals and if the voltage drops below about 11v, it opens the contacts of a built in relay. Connect one of the relay contacts to battery positive and the other one to your fridge etc and forget about it. If the battery gets too low - it will switch the fridge off. A gauge is fine - but it won't help you if you leave it on over night (unless you've taken to sleeping in the driver seat and waking up often). Personally, I wouldn't bother! I have a VSS in a plastic box with a pair of lighter sockets and use this to power my cool box etc. Never a flat battery have I! Si P.S. Cheers for the order!

No idea on the compression in absolute terms, however, the higher the pressure, the weaker the spark (takes more volts to jump a given distance). However, I doubt it will make much difference with the difference in compression you will achieve. If it does, you could go for one of the EDIS conversions or even CDI for a better spark. I would go for the compression you want and adapt the other bits to suit. I found that a ballast coil works best. Most of the ones sold are non-ballast and tend to burn out fairly quickly. Certainly with the RPI box, ballast is best. I also run Magnacore leads - and am impressed wih them. If you are setting it up yourself, there was a thread I posted a while back called something like 'LPG tuning' which tells you what the different adjustments on the vaporiser do and the sequence for adjustment. Si

Tim. No problems with Propane / LPG only - lots of people do it. You have to advance the timing a bit (to about 20 deg BTDC) and make sure the ignition circuit is in good order as it needs a GOOD spark to start from cold. Set up well - you will have no problems! Si

Asprin and Chocolate Milk - you won't go far wrong. Don't know what all the other stuff is for? Si

Why are you connecting them in series? That will only deliver 6v or so to each pump. I wouldn't imagine they will draw more than 2 or 3 A each - so I would go with a 10 A fuse assuming you meant to say "parallel". If you do genuinly mean series then if they say draw 2.5A @ 12v, they will draw 1.25A total. Si

Rob, Is your truck V8? The R380 and ZF will most likely be the same length - anything fitted to a V8 seems to have the longer bell housing which is somewhere between 4" & 6" longer than an LT77 fitted to other engines. IIRC, there is a short bell-housing available for some of the above though. Si