simonr

Don't connect live straight to A. It will make a big spark - and if you leave it connected, it will burn out the armature windings. The motor is designed to have the field windings and the armature in series (that's what 'Series Wound' means). One end of the armature windings goes to ground and the other to A. Si

Battery +ve to F1, F2 to A = Motor runs one way Battery +ve to F2, F1 to A = Motor runs the other way. You are reversing the flow between F1 & F2. These are the field windings (the coils attached to the body of the motor - i.e. the ones which do not rotate). A connects to the Armature which is the bit in the middle which spins via the brushes. The current goes in to A, into the Armature via a brush, through the coils on the armature, out of the armature through a brush and then to ground. When the motor is running, A should be at about 6v. If it is much higher, then I would suspect the brushes and failing that the coils in the armature - but it could also be a short in the field windings. If A is at 0v, the field windings have blown Use the resistance setting on a multi-meter. Test between F1 & F2 (with all the wires disconnected). It should read close to zero ohms (0.02 or so). Then test between A and the ground connection. This should also read close to zero. Connecting the battery to any individual connection will not make the motor move. To A will make a big spark though. Tell me the readings and I will predict what's wrong! Si

What about shafts from something else - like a J<cough>eep - and get the ends re-machined to fit? Si

You've been working out then Les? Si

Savage? Sorry I didn't have time to say hi to him - I was on the phone - some inconsiderate chap wanted order some ARB's! The V8 was just a bit low on water - thought I'd better stop before it started cooking. If you need bitz, I'll happily send them with free delivery - save a whole sea of petrol! Si

It's not that expensive to get a CNC shop to machine an external spline in whatever you like. Internal splines are more tricky - but not expensive if they have the tooling for that particular spline. Si

Stuck out like a sore thumb I dare say! TJ - was that you flashing your lights on the A303? I spent the next couple of miles watching out for speed cameras! Dave - we looked out for you as we passed through the shire. As Chris said - A fine weekend!

I used to have a bolt welded by the head to the top spring hanger and another to the axle. Just use a length of chain to connect together by pushing a link over the shank of each bolt. I like Gwyn's solution though. Si

I offered you my 'spare' one for free a while back. It's still in the garden somewhere. Si

I bought my 'tool' from a company called 'connect2' which is in sussex near Pullborough. Can't remember how much it was but that it was very good value. It has adaptors for both nuts & studs from M4 to M10 and is just brilliant! My solution using a nut & bolt works very well too - so long as you view the bolt as disposable as it gets chewed after half a dozen insertions. Here are the instructions for using it: DIY RivNut Tool Connect2 are pretty cheap for the riv-nuts too. Si

Thanks Mark - Just what I was looking for! Si

Is there a convenient list anywhere of springs / manufacturer / part no / Colour Code, poundages and free lengths? I'm sure I've seen something like that on one of your sites? Cheers, Si

You like your chequer plate then? Si

Be nice to dave - he's my friend & was only trying to help! Not keen on the Kam electric system - mostly because of it's lack of simplicity and needing an electronic kicker to spike the solenoid to give it enough oomph to engage/disengage. It may well prove itself in action though. I used to run a rear detroit - and thought it was brilliant. Then I had the daft idea of fitting fiddle brakes (which I still have not got round to doing) and replaced it with another ARB. I would say, if you don't want fiddle brakes a detroit is a bloody good option. People complain about it doing the wrong thing sometimes - and it does, but it does the right thing more often - same arguement applies to auto-boxes. (which I also have and love!) The ARB is more trouble to fit, plumb and supply with air - but does offer more flexibility. I don't think there is much to call it between the three options in use though. Si

Count me in! Can't wait! Si

I found, just to be difficult, that the pressure in the EZBleed is often enough to move the shuttle in the pressure loss valve - where it usually seems to stick & cause lots of swearing. Now I just use a long tube with a non return valve, but make the tube long enough to bleed back in to the reservoir through an in-line fuel filter. That way, it barely needs topping up and never over-fills. If you are gentle with the pedal, the valve stays put and you can bleed the thing on your own quite easily. Si

I agree that he should have followed the spotters instructions - but often it feels & looks very different in the cab and it needs a lot of blind faith in the spotter to trust them more than what your senses are telling you. I have experienced this three times in the last couple of years - and been sure I was going to roll, only saved by faith in the spotter (thanks to Chelsea Tractor, Rocker & Mark 90 who were the three!) Hitting the gas may just have been panic as it was already fairly wrong by then. Si

Lovely! Si

I'm impressed! When you re-paint it, are you going to lose the blue colour? I now understand the intercooler mods. Si

Al, what are CTM's? Si

Steve, What about an auto-bail for a boat? There are some which have a venturi arrangement and actually suck water out when you are moving through water, but there also ones with a float valve which shuts off when it is in water but allows drainage when the boat is out of the water. Wouldn't be terribly hard to make - if you've got a lathe, some plastic & an O ring for the seal. You could even just put a plug-hole from a sink in it? - or a hole & a cork! Si

Thanks Chris It all becomes clear - I had not made the association! Si

They look like a fantastic idea to me! It overcomes a lot of the problems associated with tensioning the chains - so they do not fall off, they are light weight and less likely to trash your motor of they do come off. Best of all - they are cheap. Good bit of lateral thinking if you ask me. I agree that dedicated snow tyres (particularly studded) are likely to be better - but less easy to keep a set in your boot! I think if I were living somewhere with decent snow fall - but not the whole year round - I'd at least try these. Sadly, the chances of it snowing at all round here are about the same as my tyres magically sprouting studs - so I'll hold out for the magic studs to appear. Si

Speak to Phil or Al at Chichester 4x4 - they seem to have more experience locally of this kind of thing than anyone else I know of. Si

I had wondered about this - and assumed that as a land rover spring with a 600mm free length and 150mm diameter does not buckle, 400 x 100 would probably be safe. The spring will only ever be compressed to 200mm length at most - but adding a guide would not be difficult if it is a problem. Thanks Ripley - I'll give them a go! Do you happen to know what the rate of police spec springs is? (roughly) Si