jjojjas

ok, I have never even seen a 2.5 td engine.....but is there any potential for removing the sump and wedging the crank against the inside of the block to prevent it rotating? Jas

as above really. I used an impact driver, the one that got stuck was drilled out and new captives were used. not such a bad job. Jas

Paul, It doesn't look much in the pic, but I'd guess mines about 1.5 inches higher. thats about how much higher my 110 was when I changed the springs. The ride is better now as well, less roll, not too hard jas ps. does catch the odd rock, but not much. Depends how "off the road" you go.

I got some adhesive velcro tap and stuck it down the leading edge of the sliding glass. You can't really see it when the windows are shut, they don't rattle, and you can still open & shut them as usual. Jas

Hi Paul, Not sure where your from but I was told that not all CSW's had a boge self leveling unit. I think it was dependent upon the country it was sold in? Anyway, I got some good advice from Diff on here in a post a couple of month back, I copied it into my web page so have a look here. http://www.jojas.co.uk/rear_springs.htm

SHHHHHHhhhhhh......don't say that!! :blink: Some people pay a fortune for a certain gold expedition defender :D

black's a pain to maintain.... even on a new motor from the dealer, it looks great for about 24 hours then it seems to magnify all the dust, grit etc so it looks tatty. Had a couple of black cars, look great when just washed, but thats about it..... Lighter colours are better at hiding the dings on spray your own stuff, as Les said, laquer is worth the effort, although with Cellulose I preferred it without on bright colours. Synthetic always went really dull after a year or two and stained really easily in my experience, then again, that could be due to my carp application of it......... :D Jas

I recall this ^^^^coming up on the old LRO a couple of years back................. Caused no end of grief!!! ^_^

I have one of those electric spray guns. Bought it to do the garden fence (lots & lots of fence....) Tried it with gloss on the garage door and the finish is unreal. Looks factory finish (not Rover either!). Never tried car paint with it though, You get very little over spray and you need to keep the gun clean...more so than with a compressor gun (from vague memory...) Mine was about £60, for twice that you could get a cheap compressor. Also did a mini with enamel and a roller years back. Finish was spot on mostly. Any dodgy bits were dust, dog hairs or me putting it on too thin so you could see brush marks. Lasted well for about 4 year until I sold it. Jas

cheers chaps, You always get some good advice here. Chassis is standard 64 that the V5 was from. Motor will be standard 1300 beetle replacement, body is from a 67 with some fibreglass added..... manufactured in 1964 and registered in 2001: Date of Liability 01 01 2007 Date of First Registration 13 12 2001 Year of Manufacture 1964 Cylinder Capacity (cc) 1300CC CO2 Emissions Not Available Fuel Type Petrol Export Marker Not Applicable Vehicle Status Unlicensed Vehicle Colour BLUE Vehicle Type Approval null Does that make it free tax?

cheers FF. I have a rather small conscience..... I gather the work was done 2000 so it may be ok anyway. Jas

Hi Not landy related, but I recall some discussion on here about registering a "home built" vehicle, and I can't find it. I'm looking at a baja bug with a 1964 reg, based on a 64 beetle chassis, it has a 70's beetle shell on top, and no motor. So when i add a motor it will be from another beetle...... Is this pushing the rules? or is it ok with it being a 64 chassis? :blink:

did my 110: http://www.jojas.co.uk/windowtint.htm Easy on flat glass.....not as easy on curvy stuff. Jas

In health care its called a TW*T........... Not quite on the same lines as your past experiences, however...... Before going into the NHS I was as welder in a garage. This guy turned up with an old mini, complete rotter with about 10 month MOT. He wants the door fixing because its "loose". I go out front, open the driver door and it literally drops into my hands. The A post is rotted and the apex (little triangle panel between door & wing on a mini) panel has broken free from it. I point out it's "broken" and note the prices for fitting the repair panels "assuming" theres something left underneath to weld them all too... Much shaking of head and lighting of Regals goes on .... then he chirps up.. "weld the door shut" err.... You might have issues come MOT time with a rotten A post and a door welded shut....and it'll look carp.... "just weld it mate..." So I did. ....drove it into the garage, ground the door edge and the rear quarter to steel, then deposited a big fat weld about a foot long in the gap. We even left the door seal in place. Charged him for it and off he went...... then....... couple of month later the local MOT station we used phoned us up p155ing himself. The guy had taken it for an MOT and mentioned us as stating "it would be ok for an MOT" !!!!!!!!!!!! Fortunately he knew us well and did all our MOT's. Bloody idiot.

All this technical jargon just confuses me

as said above, assembly lube. We used to take the plugs out to stop it firing then wind it up with the starter to get some oil around it, then start it properly running it up to full temp. Not sure if thats all strictly essential, but the guy who taught me is still building race engines and has a good rep for over 30 years. Jas

plenty good advice on this site. I read up about it here and on the old LRO before I did mine. write up here: http://www.jojas.co.uk/rear_cross_member.htm

the beginning of the Arles Blue Defender club.................. Jas

looks great actually, someone has spent some time on it by the looks of things. What's with that dash? someone been spending hours with some fiberglass or can you actually buy them? ps. I personally think you have made the right choice of motor. I went from am MX5 and an xtrail to the 110. wouldn't go back! Wife loves the 110, but she's disabled with ideas of "image" and still looks at X5's, mercs & bloody Touregs (spelling?) to mince around the shops in :unsure: :unsure: theres no hope...... Jas

Am I right in recalling you can download a program that alters the clock on the PC without "actually altering it". Just so you can use microcat without resetting dates every once in a while?

I did this a little while ago. I thought of using the purple live also, but then I'd still need to run a switch to the front of the cab anyway....so it wouldn't have saved me much anyway. I know nowt about electrickey, so I asked my brother (who knows lots about it....) and this was his advice..... I ran a soldered ring terminal from the battery (fused 5" from battery) to a switch in the dash. the switch was rated higher than the light, as was the heavy wire I was given. So I have no relay. If I was using a lighter wire/switch I'd use a relay. I ran the earth to the same earth as the rear lights which I know is good as I re earthed most of the landy at christmas. If your thorough, then run an earth to the battery....it avoids faults later. Don't ask me what rating the wire or switch are...I just used the (rather heavy) gear my Bro gave me to use. if in doubt, use a relay to protect the switch. Jas

I have some from Paddocks on mine. There nearly 2 years old and still look mint (teflon ones). Jas

Hi Gareth. You have come to the right site. I have recieved (and I'd like to think given a bit!) of good info on this place. You'll always get a reasonable volume of experienced views. Jas

Ironically, latex are the best ones on many fronts. The PVC ones are fine with blood etc, but try oil and they degrade rapidly and split with ease. The Nitrile ones just tear easily anyway....but come in funky colours... I choose Latex given the option, but I'm not sensative to rubber Jas

looks ok to me. I can see you have bent out the sleeves so it goes on easier. Thats fine. Just make sure you weld in properly. You can put a strengthener plate on if you wish, personally I just drilled several holes and pooled some weld into them to create "big spot welds" if you like. You'll need to be rough with it, hit it with something big! Before you weld it get the welding faces very clean, and bolt it all up before you weld it - that way you know it all fits! heres mine http://www.jojas.co.uk/rear_cross_member.htm Jas