steve200TDi

Hi Mike, The centre seat in my '93 and '99 defender 90 measure 15 inches. The drivers and passenger seats measure 18 inches so you would only need to space out the outer seats by say an inch for all three cushions to sit snuggly against each other. Hope this helps. Steve

I'll have a look when I get home! I'll try to remember! Steve

Yep, as Nige said, it's a very new product. Email Delta-Tek or give them a ring. Or message rougevogue on the Forum. Steve

Hi, I thought I'd do a how to regards fitting one of the Dela-Tek mainshafts as I now have one and it's apparently quite easy to fit. So I'll get my winch stripped down and take some pictures as I rebuild it over the weekend. I will also make some new securing nuts as I have a mixture of imperial and metric nuts and square nuts! And also think about fitting a breather and oil drain. Steve

YRM do pretty much any repair section, that's where I got all of mine from! Steve

I've done this. I took the axle off to do it and found the spring seats where very rusty too, so worth checking those too I'm afraid! Steve

That's a magnificent view, well worth putting the windows in. Are you going to be fitting your work bench to the window side, lots of light and views! Steve

Any Pictures from the Comp Safari at the weekend. I know of one V8 Discovery that managed to finish all 10 laps and stay running! Steve

Yes, I used a deep socket and carefully pushed and wiggled them on. If there's any scoring or grooves on the washer then it may not seal properly, but they are a tight fit! Steve

I've just fitted these on the Red One. They seem to slide on normal shafts easily, but as I (think I) have HD shafts they were a tad on the tight side to fit, but once you've got them on the first time its sort of 'machined' a news spline and its fine. They haven't been tested out in anger yet so I cant comment on there robustness/longevity etc. Steve

Hi, I believe it's the turbo oil drain pipe you are referring too. If you say you've already tightened it up and its come loose again. i would remove the pipe fully, clean and inspect it. The thread on the pipe or block may have be damaged or the pipe itself may have degraded. When refitting it I guess a drop of thread sealant would hurt. Steve

They fit straight on, you just need to source a different latch to fit to the body to shut the door. Have a look at my build thread from here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76471&p=717555 I even retro fitted the latter door card. Steve

Early Defender one piece lift up handle doors are the way forward!

I'll second that. The top bolt of the panhard rod bracket. Steve

Cool, we need more pictures! And where are you testing it, looks to be far too sunny for the UK! Steve

When your passenger thinks you coming under heavy artillery fire, but its just a stone being picked up by your nobbly tyres and hitting the underside of the rear tub. Steve

Well its good the light goes out, but not good it comes back on! Maybe worth connecting some diagnostics to it to see if any errors are popping up. Steve

I think if the engine light goes out after you turn the ignition on then its not the engine light. You need a good battery for prolonged cranking, if the battery voltage is low (~11volts) then the TD5 wont like it and causes havoc with the electrical system like lights not working. Steve

Thank you all for your help. I had a chat with Paul from V8 tuners last week and have a box of bit coming next week. Oh and Fridge and Bowie, I put the extra money in I'll now move over to here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=87607 Steve

Hi, If its on the outside of the tyre then it could be your drive flange gasket which is leaking. If its on the inside then it could well be a leaky brake pipe. Steve

Scrap the ice off the inside of the windscreen. When you get a lift with someone in a normal car and they tell you not to slam the door!

Hi, A good guide here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/66259-td5-cylinder-head-removal-how.html as well as the Haynes manual for torque settings. I bought my head bolts and gasket and the all important steel head dowels from Turners Engineering as they build engine I thought they would stock the proper stuff, which they do, but for a gasket and bolts its more than £30! I completely stripped mine down by taking the manifolds off and injectors out but was still heavy to remove. You don't have to remove the injectors, but they stick out the bottom as do the glow plugs and valves so sit it on two blocks of wood. There's a a lot of stuff to remove like the turbo, fuel lines, glow plug wiring (which is a bit of a pain), chain tensioner and vac pump pipe. It's certainly doable, give yourself the whole weekend to do it in, but depends if you want to clean the head or rebuild it or just take it off and fit a new gasket. To find out what gasket you need have a look on the pasenger side of the engine just above the water pump housing and you should see some half circles you will either need a 1, 2 or 3 hole gasket. Steve You need a female torx socket to remove the head bolts and for £8 you can buy the proper timing pins too!

Thanks Bowie, that leads me onto my next question of how do you identify what cam has come out. I'm guessing or would have thought that a fancy Piper cam or similar has 'Piper cam' stamped on it!? I also can measure the camshaft too. This is what it says on my camshaft, there are a few numbers, but this was the only text: I read that as C3 CWC, but what it means I havent a clue! Also this is the affending cam lobe, notice the curvature! I've also found an all steel timing chain set here which I thought was good for reasonable money. http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=98 Has anyone got any recommendations for an aftermarket cam which can be used with all standard components? Thanks Steve

Yes, I got my truck fired up again last weekend after taking the cylinder head off and it took forever to prime and start! I don't know why they take so long! Steve

Right, so the rockers, push rods and hydraulic lifters have been removed and neatly placed on the bench. They all look pretty good with minimal wear apart from one! This one lifter, situated at the back of the engine on cylinder 8 exhaust has a nice concaved dish on the cam lobe end, so I suspect this is the culprit! My plan of action, as I guess the camshaft will be have been damaged (will inspect closer tomorrow) is to replace camshaft and lifters, push rods and I might as well replace the timing chain. Questions: - Camshaft bearing - If they look ok I guess I can leave them, what's the normal routine for this? - Push rods - there cheap enough so I might as well stick a new set in, I will visually inspect the rockers for wear too. I've heard about setting tappet preload, is this only set on new engine builds or do I need to at least check it? - Timing chain, I might as well replace the gears as well. Recommendations, I see you can get duplex and silent chain. I had thought about a fancy cam, but its only going to minimal mileage a year, so I think standard components will suffice. Thanks Steve