steve200TDi

Right, So at the weekend I finally got around to removing my winch and tonight I've stripped it and taken some pictures. I used my phone so the picture quality is slightly lower than normal So it already has the Delta-Tek freespool and fairlead, which are both great products, so much easier to pull the rope off the drum and nice big radius' for the rope to run on! Winch removed! The end plate slides off the drum whether you have a standard or freespool drum. I then removed the three cap screws and retrieved the loose nuts and removed the top housing with the winch motor in it and put it to one side. I looked inside to see a nice milky colour, oh dear, looks like water has been getting in! But at least it doesn't smell of EP90 as I've used ATF! So now you want to leave the brake on for the time being as we need to remove the mainshaft (the bit we're replacing!). It will need a gentle tap on the brake assembly to push the bronse bush out and the gear that on the shaft will need adusting so that you don't get it jammed on the main shaft as it comes out. You can see here that its starting to come out. One thing you need to watch is the locking plate that holds the drum in. This also sits in a groove on the mainshaft so will need holding up as its removed. Once it's out the brake assembly can now be dismantled. The Delta-Tek kit comes with a brake assembly tool so this can be used to stop all the ball bearings from falling all over the floor! Now the oil seal and bronze bush can be removed along with the gears on the mainshaft. With the old and new shafts lined up you can see the differences between the two. The fitrst difference is ones shinier than the other! The small cam profile that slots onto the splines on the standard shaft is now integrated into the Delta-Tek shaft and machined from one piece! Also the groove that the locking plate sits in has been deleted to improve the strength of the shaft and a new locking plate is supplied with the kit.

If the 3 swedish builds have lots of picture, have you got links to them, please?! Thanks Steve

A good write up on the AULRO forum here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/66259-td5-cylinder-head-removal-how.html Steve

This could be a good time to upgrade to a Disco drop arm, which allows easy renewal of the track rod ends. You will have to purchase a new drag link though. Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-steering-drop-arm-ball-joint-conversion-SUMOBARS-/181308130720?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a36ce85a0 Obviously you don't have to go with Gwyn, it's just an example! Steve

It is indeed a lovely piece of metal, it seems a shame to fit it as you wont see most of it, but it wont pull me out of the mud sitting on the shelve! I'll hopefully get my winch stripped down at the weekend, so you can at least see how the old main shaft fitted! Steve

Hi Mike, The centre seat in my '93 and '99 defender 90 measure 15 inches. The drivers and passenger seats measure 18 inches so you would only need to space out the outer seats by say an inch for all three cushions to sit snuggly against each other. Hope this helps. Steve

I'll have a look when I get home! I'll try to remember! Steve

Yep, as Nige said, it's a very new product. Email Delta-Tek or give them a ring. Or message rougevogue on the Forum. Steve

Hi, I thought I'd do a how to regards fitting one of the Dela-Tek mainshafts as I now have one and it's apparently quite easy to fit. So I'll get my winch stripped down and take some pictures as I rebuild it over the weekend. I will also make some new securing nuts as I have a mixture of imperial and metric nuts and square nuts! And also think about fitting a breather and oil drain. Steve

YRM do pretty much any repair section, that's where I got all of mine from! Steve

I've done this. I took the axle off to do it and found the spring seats where very rusty too, so worth checking those too I'm afraid! Steve

That's a magnificent view, well worth putting the windows in. Are you going to be fitting your work bench to the window side, lots of light and views! Steve

Any Pictures from the Comp Safari at the weekend. I know of one V8 Discovery that managed to finish all 10 laps and stay running! Steve

Yes, I used a deep socket and carefully pushed and wiggled them on. If there's any scoring or grooves on the washer then it may not seal properly, but they are a tight fit! Steve

I've just fitted these on the Red One. They seem to slide on normal shafts easily, but as I (think I) have HD shafts they were a tad on the tight side to fit, but once you've got them on the first time its sort of 'machined' a news spline and its fine. They haven't been tested out in anger yet so I cant comment on there robustness/longevity etc. Steve

Hi, I believe it's the turbo oil drain pipe you are referring too. If you say you've already tightened it up and its come loose again. i would remove the pipe fully, clean and inspect it. The thread on the pipe or block may have be damaged or the pipe itself may have degraded. When refitting it I guess a drop of thread sealant would hurt. Steve

They fit straight on, you just need to source a different latch to fit to the body to shut the door. Have a look at my build thread from here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76471&p=717555 I even retro fitted the latter door card. Steve

Early Defender one piece lift up handle doors are the way forward!

I'll second that. The top bolt of the panhard rod bracket. Steve

Cool, we need more pictures! And where are you testing it, looks to be far too sunny for the UK! Steve

When your passenger thinks you coming under heavy artillery fire, but its just a stone being picked up by your nobbly tyres and hitting the underside of the rear tub. Steve

Well its good the light goes out, but not good it comes back on! Maybe worth connecting some diagnostics to it to see if any errors are popping up. Steve

I think if the engine light goes out after you turn the ignition on then its not the engine light. You need a good battery for prolonged cranking, if the battery voltage is low (~11volts) then the TD5 wont like it and causes havoc with the electrical system like lights not working. Steve

Thank you all for your help. I had a chat with Paul from V8 tuners last week and have a box of bit coming next week. Oh and Fridge and Bowie, I put the extra money in I'll now move over to here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=87607 Steve

Hi, If its on the outside of the tyre then it could be your drive flange gasket which is leaking. If its on the inside then it could well be a leaky brake pipe. Steve