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steve200TDi

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Everything posted by steve200TDi

  1. I have one of these: http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/boa-constrictor-strap-wrench Really good, really grippy too when you give it good clean! I think I bought mine from Homebase. Steve
  2. Yeah, the striker plates are expensive new, so I think I found some second hand at Billing, Peterborough etc... Steve
  3. Is it not running correctly? What's the reason you want to test them? Be careful bending the pipes as they'll need to be reseated correctly when you refit the injectors. You may be able to remove the clips that hold the 4 injector pipes together and get away without bending them! Steve
  4. Yep, earths to ECU. Also check that the Main relay has 12v too and that the ECU is getting 12v. For me when I had this (coolant temp gauge in red and no engine light or glow plug light) it was either an earthing problem or a 12v problem, so hopefully it's all in a working state, its just finding the niggly problem! Steve
  5. Hi Mike, I retrofitted some of the later door cards to my lift up handle doors as the older ones are always past it unless you buy new ones! Steve
  6. You can buy a rebuild kit which includes new copper contacts which may have worn out. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-DISCOVERY-TD5-DIESEL-FULL-STARTER-SOLENOID-KIT-C-W-SPRING-BOLTS-etc-/291196737071?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43ccad962f That's what I did with mine and I even had the whole starter motor apart too. Steve
  7. Photos from Mannington: https://www.flickr.com/gp/124352693@N03/539j6X/ And a video too! Steve
  8. I've translated the website, but it still doesn't tell me what sort of event it is. Anyone been and has an overview of the event? What do you do? etc.... Steve
  9. I think 100kpa is 1bar which atmospheric, so that sounds right. Things i've checked in the past: - Is there fuel coming out of the fuel rail? (Just incase you have the wires the wrong way round and you're sucking all the fuel out of the rail!) - Is there spark? - Is the laptop reading and engine speed as you may have the wires round the wrong way. Steve
  10. I'm sure we can sort something out! See you all Friday in the Pub. Steve
  11. Oh ok! Well things might have changed now and I may not need. I'll keep the top box at home and just use the bottom box for work, so I'll have lot of work top space, especially as it's a 40 inch tool box! Steve
  12. Hi, Anyone up for picking this up and bringing it to the LRO show at Peterborough? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201147903736?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648 Thanks Steve
  13. I use an Asus Transformer with Oziexplorer. It works really well. You can do all the plotting on your PC/laptop and then load up all the waypoints and maps onto your tablet and away you go! I use for laning trips and seven sisters! steve
  14. Alloy wheel nuts: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jgs4x4.co.uk%2Fekmps%2Fshops%2Fjgs4x4%2Fimages%2Fland-rover-defender-capped-alloy-wheel-nut-x-5-159-p%255Bekm%255D338x269%255Bekm%255D.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jgs4x4.co.uk%2Fland-rover-defender-capped-alloy-wheel-nut-x-5-159-p.asp&h=269&w=338&tbnid=h-PA4HrO6eTVKM%3A&zoom=1&docid=xRqXzdLs5eVk3M&ei=AHPJU5CTEebX0QX_-ICYDA&tbm=isch&client=firefox-a&ved=0CCcQMygGMAY&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=3404&page=1&start=0&ndsp=18 Steel wheel nuts: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2F00%2Fs%2FNDA3WDY0MA%253D%253D%2Fz%2FbHwAAOxyzpdTiHHE%2F%2524_35.JPG&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FLAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-STEEL-WHEELS-WHEEL-NUTS-20-X-RRD500010-%2F370563991088&h=191&w=300&tbnid=K8EUWNWpAYLqsM%3A&zoom=1&docid=AZ9kT6WWCgXLQM&itg=1&ei=AHPJU5CTEebX0QX_-ICYDA&tbm=isch&client=firefox-a&ved=0CEkQMygfMB8&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=835&page=2&start=18&ndsp=25 Google is your friend Steve
  15. If you search for a picture of a TD5 injector you will see one seal and one copper washer. Like this one: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lrseries.com%2Fresources%2Fuser%2Ff8d3db4205a2f61a7048011e65b5b98c8598c3af%2FMSC000040-INJECTOR-SENSOR-TD5.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Flandrover.startpagina.nl%2Fprikbord%2Fread.php%3F1162%2C16376796%2C16379980%2Cquote%3D1&h=600&w=775&tbnid=mjIb_PqmKlxQNM%3A&zoom=1&docid=qKdmgjApw4E8jM&ei=elfJU827M-Wy7AbLkIHwCA&tbm=isch&client=firefox-a&ved=0CCQQMygDMAM&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=706&page=1&start=0&ndsp=17
  16. Hi, It could be the two bolts either side of the seatbox arrowed in this picture. The can be a bit fiddly to get too and may envole a bit of lifting the rear tub up first and try and unhook it if that makes sense. Also that bracket that sit upright will need loosening and pulling away from the rear tub. Steve
  17. Try googling it! I did, it's here: http://steveparkers.com/parts-accessories/series/axle/axle-diff-pan.html?___SID=U
  18. Have a look at what I've done here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76471 Although it sticks out a little bit, there's no loss of load space. Just needs a bit of garage time to get it made! Steve
  19. Depending on how long its been in there and whether it's a RD56 or RD128 then note the following: The RD128 (later model) has the copper pipe routed over the crown wheel teeth and so if this isn't correctly routed when originally fitted then the crown wheel can rub up against it and 'machine away' at it causing an air leak. The o-rings may have failed or got pinched as Mike suggests. Or depending on how it stopped working, then you may have damaged the actual diff? Steve
  20. Hi Mo, I made my wings from HDPE, albeit it was only 3mm, but I could happily attack it with a jigsaw and a centre punch without fear of ir cracking. So a jigswa could do it, but it may give a wavy cut. Will you see the cut edge? Is it a curved profile? You could try a tenan saw if it was a straight cut. Steve
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