steve200TDi

Hi Mike, I retrofitted some of the later door cards to my lift up handle doors as the older ones are always past it unless you buy new ones! Steve

I'm loving the difflock indicator panel! Steve

You can buy a rebuild kit which includes new copper contacts which may have worn out. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-DISCOVERY-TD5-DIESEL-FULL-STARTER-SOLENOID-KIT-C-W-SPRING-BOLTS-etc-/291196737071?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43ccad962f That's what I did with mine and I even had the whole starter motor apart too. Steve

Photos from Mannington: https://www.flickr.com/gp/124352693@N03/539j6X/ And a video too! Steve

I've translated the website, but it still doesn't tell me what sort of event it is. Anyone been and has an overview of the event? What do you do? etc.... Steve

Awsome job Mike! Keep up the good work. Steve

Cool! I'm going! Steve

I think 100kpa is 1bar which atmospheric, so that sounds right. Things i've checked in the past: - Is there fuel coming out of the fuel rail? (Just incase you have the wires the wrong way round and you're sucking all the fuel out of the rail!) - Is there spark? - Is the laptop reading and engine speed as you may have the wires round the wrong way. Steve

I'm sure we can sort something out! See you all Friday in the Pub. Steve

I'm going! Steve

Oh ok! Well things might have changed now and I may not need. I'll keep the top box at home and just use the bottom box for work, so I'll have lot of work top space, especially as it's a 40 inch tool box! Steve

Hi, Anyone up for picking this up and bringing it to the LRO show at Peterborough? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201147903736?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648 Thanks Steve

I use an Asus Transformer with Oziexplorer. It works really well. You can do all the plotting on your PC/laptop and then load up all the waypoints and maps onto your tablet and away you go! I use for laning trips and seven sisters! steve

Alloy wheel nuts: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jgs4x4.co.uk%2Fekmps%2Fshops%2Fjgs4x4%2Fimages%2Fland-rover-defender-capped-alloy-wheel-nut-x-5-159-p%255Bekm%255D338x269%255Bekm%255D.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jgs4x4.co.uk%2Fland-rover-defender-capped-alloy-wheel-nut-x-5-159-p.asp&h=269&w=338&tbnid=h-PA4HrO6eTVKM%3A&zoom=1&docid=xRqXzdLs5eVk3M&ei=AHPJU5CTEebX0QX_-ICYDA&tbm=isch&client=firefox-a&ved=0CCcQMygGMAY&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=3404&page=1&start=0&ndsp=18 Steel wheel nuts: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2F00%2Fs%2FNDA3WDY0MA%253D%253D%2Fz%2FbHwAAOxyzpdTiHHE%2F%2524_35.JPG&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FLAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-STEEL-WHEELS-WHEEL-NUTS-20-X-RRD500010-%2F370563991088&h=191&w=300&tbnid=K8EUWNWpAYLqsM%3A&zoom=1&docid=AZ9kT6WWCgXLQM&itg=1&ei=AHPJU5CTEebX0QX_-ICYDA&tbm=isch&client=firefox-a&ved=0CEkQMygfMB8&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=835&page=2&start=18&ndsp=25 Google is your friend Steve

If you search for a picture of a TD5 injector you will see one seal and one copper washer. Like this one: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lrseries.com%2Fresources%2Fuser%2Ff8d3db4205a2f61a7048011e65b5b98c8598c3af%2FMSC000040-INJECTOR-SENSOR-TD5.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Flandrover.startpagina.nl%2Fprikbord%2Fread.php%3F1162%2C16376796%2C16379980%2Cquote%3D1&h=600&w=775&tbnid=mjIb_PqmKlxQNM%3A&zoom=1&docid=qKdmgjApw4E8jM&ei=elfJU827M-Wy7AbLkIHwCA&tbm=isch&client=firefox-a&ved=0CCQQMygDMAM&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=706&page=1&start=0&ndsp=17

Hi, It could be the two bolts either side of the seatbox arrowed in this picture. The can be a bit fiddly to get too and may envole a bit of lifting the rear tub up first and try and unhook it if that makes sense. Also that bracket that sit upright will need loosening and pulling away from the rear tub. Steve

Try googling it! I did, it's here: http://steveparkers.com/parts-accessories/series/axle/axle-diff-pan.html?___SID=U

Have a look at what I've done here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76471 Although it sticks out a little bit, there's no loss of load space. Just needs a bit of garage time to get it made! Steve

Depending on how long its been in there and whether it's a RD56 or RD128 then note the following: The RD128 (later model) has the copper pipe routed over the crown wheel teeth and so if this isn't correctly routed when originally fitted then the crown wheel can rub up against it and 'machine away' at it causing an air leak. The o-rings may have failed or got pinched as Mike suggests. Or depending on how it stopped working, then you may have damaged the actual diff? Steve

Hi Mo, I made my wings from HDPE, albeit it was only 3mm, but I could happily attack it with a jigsaw and a centre punch without fear of ir cracking. So a jigswa could do it, but it may give a wavy cut. Will you see the cut edge? Is it a curved profile? You could try a tenan saw if it was a straight cut. Steve

Yes, I have a '99 TD5 and understand that I need an EU2 map to put on my NNN ECU for it to run as an EU3 wont work! Steve

Is this actually real? I can't believe it! Steve

As long as you put the timing pins in the crankshaft (flywheel) and the camshaft (pin at the front), you just need to make sure the chain is tight from the crankshaft going in an anticlockwise route up to the camshaft sprocket where it has three slotted holes. Then fit the chain tensioner with the three camshaft sprocket slightly bolts loose to get the chain tensioned before torqueing up the camshaft sprocket bolts. Steve

if you unscrew the nut, lots of tiny bits will fall out, so do it slowly and take a picture or three. But firstly, why are you changing the nozzles? Do you have smoke issues? Down on power?........ Firstly you can pressure check them or POT test them. All good diesel injector service centres can do this. The one by me checked them all for free! So its worth asking! Steve

It says 40Nm then 90 degrees in the Haynes manual. It also say you have to use new bolts, I guess because they'll stretch. Steve