Jump to content

steve200TDi

Settled In
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,812

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

 Content Type 

Everything posted by steve200TDi

  1. steve200TDi
    It's nice and local! .............we could go and have a look.............or not...... Steve
  2. steve200TDi
    Yes, date dependant indeed..... Come on Nige, any dates in mind, it looks like you wont struggle for entries! Steve
  3. steve200TDi
    Count me in, subject to date, for a green class even though my trucks red Steve
  4. steve200TDi
    Hi, What you could do it to box in a standard replacement which will help with the rust prevention and it filling up with mud, but making your own is an excellent idea! If you haven't already, have a look at my build thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76471&page=1"]here[/url where I've designed a rear winch bumper for my TD5 and for my 200TDi, maybe you can get some inspiration. If you say that you are dismantling it, then it will be a lot easier to fabricate and fit a new rear crossmember. Have you got a list of requirements that you want the new crossmember to achieve? Steve
  5. steve200TDi
    I see one of the 'few quid' have been included on sprucing it up, that, or they've carelessly left there change on the front tyre. Steve
  6. steve200TDi
    Ah ok, I suppose its cheap enough to get a flat windscreen cut to size, just thought it would be cheaper to buy an off the shelf item, but they maybe none! True TD5's are quite expensive so maybe stick with the 200TDi or what about some of the other popular (I think?) options such as the Izuzu 2.8 or the 3.9. Or some 6 cylinder diesel goodness form Range rover/BMW, but I'm not sure how much electrickery they have. Steve
  7. steve200TDi
    Will a standard defender windscreen fit for a bonded windscreen or do you already have a 'standard' screen in mind. What about fitting a TD5? And maybe definitely the gauges as well! Keep up the progress, but I you may will have others things to deal with! Steve
  8. steve200TDi
    Keep it as a play thing, put a rear tub on the back, extend the wheel boxes (in the rear tub) as you have good axle travel front and rear. Finish the cage, add a winch (I think you said it already has a PTO winch) and go and have a play! If you feel you want to do more with it and drive it on the road then you could think about a new chassis and transfer all the bits over. Steve
  9. steve200TDi
    I think it's a great project, please continue! It's nice to see someone doing it differently. What are your plans for the rear? Steve
  10. steve200TDi
    Excellent progress! It reminds me of when I recieved my jigsaw puzzle of funny shaped pieces of plate for my rear winch bumper! Steve
  11. steve200TDi
    I think that's one of the nicest bobtailed disco's I've seen! Steve
  12. steve200TDi
    Hi, Have you checked the propshaft for wear, including the sliding joint. I remember once I had horrendous vibration and it turned out to be the sliding joint had seized up. Also maybe, go for a short drive without the rar propshaft on to see if the noise disapears, but it may not be advisable if you have a trailer and a fully laden 90. Steve
  13. steve200TDi
    Hi, On mine I removed the rear section (3) as I made a rear winch bumper and so it got in the way. What I did was to buy sections 2 and 6, shorten 2 to fit onto 6 and it's been on there for the last 3 or 4 years. To start with when I swapped it over it was a tiny bit loader, but I've happily lived with it ever since. Steve
  14. steve200TDi
    Oow, it's the first rear engined Series I've seen! Steve
  15. steve200TDi
    Hi, Just a thought, but does it not mount onto the two post either side on top of the chassis. I will try and have a look at my TD5 when I get home tonight. Steve
  16. steve200TDi
    Hi, I think sump removal without the need for jacking the vehicle should be ok, although being a 300TDi, the sump is further over the front axle so maybe the removal of the front prop may help. As for cleaning it, a load of rag/kitchen roll to removel the oil and then some sort of solvent to clean it as well as cleaning the gasket surface. As for the oil strainer I'll let someone answer that one! Steve
  17. steve200TDi
    Ok, Ok, Ok, you don't need to post it 5 times! Crack on! Steve
  18. steve200TDi
    Hi, I was just going to rivit mine on, but thought about water ingress and trying to make a water tight seal. In the end I offered them up and added a little sealant where I thought it needed it. The stuff I used was normal black gasket sealent. Steve
  19. steve200TDi
    Hi, I believe you can't as there are two nuts/bolts holding the three parts together. When I removed my seatbox I just supported the sills at the tub end. You could fit the bolts back in loosly to support the sill in the mean time. Steve
  20. steve200TDi
    I love this!..... and for my next project......... Steve
  21. steve200TDi
    I purchased one of the adapters that goes into a 12v socket as at the time I could find any, but now it looks like you can get them, but they're a little more expensive, but why? Steve
  22. steve200TDi
    Correct!
  23. steve200TDi
    Hi, I've seen some people add in a 2 inch strip of ali/steel to bring the existing arch our from the body work. That way you can still use the existing arch, but may require some trimming and trickery as on the front it forms or seals off the inner wing. Steve
  24. steve200TDi
    I look forward to the build thread. Steve
  25. steve200TDi
    Ah yes! I remember that! I think it was Nick and I who were talking too you. Hope you've found a use for it! Steve
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy

  I accept