steve200TDi

Looking good! All you need now is to fit a TD5 speedo and you'll be sorted! Steve

The track rod ends are both right and left handed and so the best way is to remove the track rods to see what you need. It either going to be 2 rights and 1 left or visa versa but I can never remember! Also before doing that measure the length of the drag link with the track rods on so you can get it roughly in the right place when you refit with new ones. You could also look at the two universal joints between the steering box and steering wheel as there could be play there? Steve

I see where Zoltan is coming from. My first impressions of this post was that you had a set of ashcroft shafts and they had failed. That's evidently not the case! Steve

This is the one I have under my seat in the seat box in my 1999 TD5 90. Steve

Hi, I have a 1999 TD5 90 so the fuse box locations maybe the same as yours. The first one is behind the gear sticks on the bulkhead (the standard ones that all defenders have). The second one is in the seatbox under the drivers seat along with the ECU. Mine has about 6 big fuses (60 - 100amps) and another row of about 8 of the normal 'blade' type fuses. Hope that helps, I could take a picture if that helps and then send it to via email as I can't post pics! Steve

Have you checked the fuel stop solenoid for functionality as the pin could be stuck of the feed wire may have come loose? Steve

I also bought seat retrim kits from Britpart for the seats in the TD5 and Yes they include everything you need to retrim the seat, glue, cable ties, a DVD absolutly everything! Did you cover the passenger seat first? Steve

I ordered some items last Thursday. The email said allow up to 5 day for dispatch, so Fri, Mon, Tues and on Wed I get an email and notification from Interlink express about delivery. I postponed the delivery to today and got a text from Interlink saying your parcel will be delivered between 10 and 11 and It was delivered at 10:40. So although maybe a little slower than say Paddocks, I got my stuff! Steve

OK!

It looks like one of John Morgans sites as you can see him in the first picture. Steve

Thanks Dave. Yes that seems to be the same approach I was thinking about as I still want to use the inertia reel seatbelts. As mine will be bolted it I will I will have to have a think about some sort of bracket for them to bolt to. Some pictures would be great to get the ideas ball rolling. Thanks Steve

You can get 6 point harness, there's two straps between the legs instead of one. I'll be using a 4 point harness as I think that should surfice! Steve

Ok, maybe I was think of Discovery TD5's as I think they use the different fluid. Well great, I'll swap them over! Thanks Steve

Hi, I have a Blue 200TDi 90 with a new steering box (with Discovery drop arm) which uses normal ATF and a Red TD5 with a slightly leaky steering box which uses the fancy Land Rover stuff. My question is are the two oil compatible? Can I fit my new steering box to the TD5 and refill it with normal PAS ATF fluid? Is the TD5 pas pump going to like it? Your thoughts please. Thanks Steve

Hi, I have some 4 point harnesses that I'll be fitting to the Red TD5 (here) and wondered how people have fitted them. The two shoulder straps will be fitted to the internal hoop so that's not a problem, it's mainly the lower lap straps that I'm more concerned about. Ideas so far would be to utilise the existing seatbelt anchorage points, so for the outer points try and utilise the two studs that the seat belt coil fits too and for the inner try and utilise the existing anchor point. My harness straps have eyes on them so it will be a case of bolting them to the brackets. So what I'm looking for are ideas and more importantly.......pictures! Thanks Steve

You are right! It does go in at the top and out at the bottom as hot air rises so the coolant at the bottom will be colder for the coolant pump to circulate around the engine. It's just more efficient that draeing coolant in from the top as it will be that much hotter! That's also why you have a short hose (on a TDi) going from the thermostate house to the top of the radiator. Steve

Newbie forumers, we'll let you off this once!

Have a look at this one here Aparently it has a 'full msa approved custom roll cage'. It doesn't look very MSAey to me! Steve

I thought this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400300034757?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 looked quite good. Steve

I couldn't have put it better my self! The advantages of a TD5 speedo is I can see it. Full stop!

As I understand it this event is a punch hunt with some special stages. I would have liked to enter this event, but I think it maybe the price putting people off. I gather you need to be a member of this and that for the insurance to be valid, but this maybe something you need to look at to find a more econimical solution so that you can bring the price down. I look forward to seeing the new plans for next year! Steve

I guess you've checked you're getting voltage at the end of the stop solenoid wire? Other than that, I'm not sure. Steve

I'm talking about the one half way down this page Steve

If your tow plate removes with two pins then you can purchase a recovery point which fits the two pins. I don't know if you can still purchase these now. Steve

It looks as if you have the newer thinner drive flanges. I had this issue with fitting free style alloys. It's a tight fit as the alloy locates on the outer edge of the hub, so clean the outer edge of the hub and drive flange; remove dirt, lumps of paint etc and also make sure the edges of the drive flange bolt don't protrude out from the sillouette of the hub. Once thats done they should fit. Oh and make sure the inside of the wheel is clean and free from lumps of mud, dirt and paint! Also you will need different wheel nuts, but I'm sure you already know that! steve Edit: Just looking at the picture agian it looks as if you might have the older thicker drive flange, so it maybe the case of different drive flange and half shafts or you could go down the route of wheel spacers?