Ibex94

I've been contemplating this as well and was considering installing the inboard equipment under a reduced cubby box in the centre between front seats.

I think you'll find that many of the hoses are still available if you want them. Rimmers certainly have a reasonable selection I was looking for 200tdi 90 fittings but sure the others were there.

The darker bit is where fuel sprayed while bleeding the injector lines😇

Well the Ibex has been sulking in the shed for too long and as a consequence the fuel pump had gummed itself up. He still started but just wanted run away, apparently the pump delivers peak fuel on start up and then the governor kicks in to control the fuel. When stripped they found the internals corroded so that the governor couldn't do its job. Took the injector pump to Hickley's in Bridgwater and got the pump back a week later looking like new. They suggested that I took the rest of the fuel system apart to clean out any crud that had migrated so I stripped everything between the fuel filter and the engine flushed with fuel and blown through with the air line apart from the Injectors which after a look at You Tube I decided to have a crack at. They'd not been out I recon for 25 years and no1 took some getting out - bought a slide hammer on ebay and it worked a treat! Having got the injectors out the nozzles looked quite worn, I eventually managed to track a set down so decided to have a go at rebuilding them myself. Firstly the nuts were super tight to undo compounded by what appeared to be a trace of coke around them. Then to pull them apart, you really have to pay attention to the sequence and orientation - on the plus side you've got a couple more to practice on before it gets critical😃. After 30+ years they stilled pristine so soaked everything in diesel cleaner and blew everything through before rebuilding. Spent the weekend putting everything back together and timing the engine up and finally got him started this evening. Still starts a treat! IMG_2850 3.mov

So three white knuckles then😀

You want the torque to be high enough that the preload on the assembly is greater than the force exerted by the pressure. Its a really fine thread so they shouldn't need to be ridiculously tight but it took some force to undo them as there was coke in the annulus between the nozzle and the securing nut and some light corrosion at the end of the threads. They are unlikely to come undone once installed as fixing is pretty positive its more of a fatigue issue imho

Bosch, found supply on ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-200-TDI-NEW-BOSCH-INJECTOR-NOZZLES-SET-OF-4-DSLA145P208-0433175017/274456947691?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Part number on mine is DSLA 145 P 208 its etched on the barrel of the injector nozzle.

I think this may be an exception, they were proper friction tight to undo - I think carbon and 30 years didn't help. They are a proper fine thread so I wouldn't expect such a high torque to do them back up. My sphincter twitchometer would be having convulsions😂

Love it, do you have an indicator of imminent failure?🤕

Thanks Mo, but that's the clamp which retains the injector in the head. Unfortunately LR didn't consider the injector to be serviceable so there's no information in the manual, Bosch would like you to take them to a service centre so I've not been able to find any torques figures.

Evening all, I've just had my fuel pump rebuilt and was told it was full of carp so I decided to pull the injectors to check they were clean and clear. Having done so I realise that the nozzles are worn and have bought a spare set. The nozzle retaining nuts take quite a torque to undo but I'm assuming that's a function of the coke that builds up around the nozzle to nut interface and general age. Can anybody tell me how tight I should torque them back up or do I go with 3 white knuckles and a grunt🤪. Thanks Rob

I made a crow foot ring spanner up when I did mine to get them torqued up properly. Buy one of Halfords finest spanners cut it in half and weld an M10 nut to the ring end. Make sure you check length required before cutting.

I've fitted a bilge blower in line with a standard defender heater box. I've retained the resistor pack as well and have a pretty good two speeds. I remover the original fan and made my own duct up which the fan slips into. Will get you a photo later.

I'm fitting forward facing rear defender seats in my Ibex. I'm just trying to get them set up right and was wondering whether anybody out there could take me a couple of dimensions please. Ideally I'd like the dimension from the rear tub floor to the flat in the wheel box which the seat pivot bracket sits on. The other one would be the centres height of the fold down arm on the lower bracket pivot to the centre pivot of the upper seat bracket. Thanks for your help - hope it gives you something different to do in isolation😂 Take Care Rob

Thanks all, yes isolated pump with the solenoid supply. Yes the engine turned off on the key and the turbo was refurbished albeit several years ago. Will persevere with a a little messing about with the throttle and give it a few more starts - wasn't aware that start setting was equivalent to full fuel. Might also try pull the boost pin to see what it looks like. Watch this space🤔

Evening all, Unfortunately project Ibex has been languishing in the barn untouched for a couple of years. Time has come to push it over the line, so having installed the battery I decide to give starting the old girl a go. This is an engine I know the history of as it ended up being rebuilt when I originally bought it to replace my original trucks turbo diesel. I had the engine running a couple of years ago without any real issues and drove the truck round the farm. So why 2 years on having cranked the engine over for 30 seconds with the fuel pump isolated to give the oil a stir does the engine want to run off when I then start it, which it does on first turn of the key? The only exterior sign of distress I can see is fuel leaking from the feed from the fuel filter around the banjo - this was bone dry before hand. Any ideas? Thanks folks Rob

Hi Dizzy, I bought a TD5 seat box to retro-fit into my 1988 90. I decided it was too much hassle in the end and I can't remember all the detail but you either need to cut out the tunnel mounting section from your old seat box and attach to you new TD5 or you need to get hold of all the tunnel sections and floor panels. I think part oof the issue is the TD5 tunnel is much wider and there are braces down the back of the front face where you need to cut. My old seat box is still cluttering up the garage. For its age its in ok condition, the side flanges are corroded around the bolt holes but could be easily repaired by bonding an additional piece of sheet on top. Check you seat belt anchors while the seat box is out they rot out sat up out the way and unloved.

Seat upgrade. I had fitted my original 90 seats to the Ibex which whilst in reasonable condition were never the most comfortable of things - particularly with the luxurious vinyl finish. So I've been casting my eye around for suitable replacements to match the forward facing XS rear seats I got for the rear. I had been looking at the std XS fronts but then they aren't particularly cheap. I would love some of those very sexy Recaro's they had in the last limited edition defender but they're just mental money. I eventually came to the conclusion that with the smaller battery box the Ibex has with limited opportunity to stow gear in I may as well fit seats with fixed bases. My other requirement was to get something more supportive but not restrictive with relatively shallow squab side bolsters, adjustable lift would also be good. I looked at the various Recaro seats you find in VW and Audis but never really found pictures of the seat mounting. Then found VX seats which I thought would suit although thought shoulder wings may get in the way when off road would also need to modify the seat base and the boy racers love them clearly by the prices they're prepared to pay. Anyway I eventually looked at Porsche seats and found a pair of 997 comfort seats going for very sensible money £300 on ebay - subsequently found the reason why they were going cheap as the sub frames had been retained by the previous owner to fit his replacement seats onto. Decided it shouldn't be too hard to find some replacement sub frames so did the deal. Seat bases are rarer than rocking horse muck! So I ended up looking a bit better at how to fit the seats and to be honest now I've seen what the standard subframes are like I think my install with a bespoke adaptor to go between the seat and the standard Defender sub frame is almost as easy to fit as adapting the Porsche subframe and is probably slightly lower than you could get the Porsche subframe. Adaptors have been made from 40x40x3mm aluminium angle. Having made a prototype set of brackets and a couple of production sets I recon the last set took me around 3 hrs to make. Probably took me another few hours to make up the wiring loom to power the seats electric back rest but I've seen other just jury rig a power supply and remove it when the seats where they want it. A few pictures for you - unfortunately they don't tell you how comfortable they feel. Hopefully you can see the aluminium adaptor between the seat and the std defender runners. I also got hold of some 996 seats having heard they shared common subframes with the 997 but that wasn't true however having thought about the problem I recon that they should also be a relatively simple adaption to make fit.

If you can't grind them consider drilling them out, tedious but delivers the result. You may also find you can get a Dremel in.

Visual inspection of injectors is unlikely to reveal any cracks in the body, they are likely to be very fine and significantly affected by the pressure they operate at. The easiest way to look for these type defects would be using die penetrant which will search out any defects and capillary into them. After a period of time you clean die off and spray on a "developer" to soak the die out the crack. Die used to be red so these tell tales are called bleeds. Found a couple of suppliers online if you want to do it yourself. Alternatively look for a Non Destructive Testing company local to you there's a few around but can't remember who we used when I was working at Hunterston.

Hi I've tried to decouple the steel bits from the Ali where possible. I've used some rubber sheet I've got sculling around about 1mm thick. Your roof repair stuff may work by excluding moisture but I suspect that as you tighten the joint you'll end up with metal to metal contact. If you're just going to exclude moisture then you may find the thick waxoil will do an equivalent job. Rob

Sorry meant to say that there are many similar places where the backlash could be present on the tdci.

If vehicle was a Td5 or earlier then I would suspect excessive wear in the drive train. I'm assuming the snatch you refer to is related to backlash when the clutch engages drive but you haven't taken up all the slack. If this is the case then you could be heading for gearbox rebuild not a cheep experience. I posted a load of advise on the Defender for Ascension Island thread, re checking for backlash. You can also check by riding the clutch to make sure all backlash is taken up before fully engaging the gear. Welcome to Land Rovers and the forum. Rob

Very good, however you forgot to factor in the number of FFS's which got used during the process. Therapy is helping can now smile about it

I suspect you've knocked the diff lock linkage forwards. The bottom of the linkage floats so you should be able to realign with the transfer box lever when you've bolted it down.