dangerous doug

The closest thing I could find that would(nt) fit was the end of an m14 bulldog. M12 boss ordered with an m14 tap

Thanks fridge, I'll have another look later. M10 stainless weld on boss' seem to be on existent online so I might have to fashion one from a nut

Anyone know the thread size of the MAT sensor in Niges kits? I sent nige a message but he must be busy. Getting a bung from his site is a last resort as I need a stainless one

THIS! i bought some blue silicone hoses thinking it would be ok.........it's not! Now I'm slowly going through them and changing to black

http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html spring rates/part numbers/colours i found this very helpfull

You want to test the sender using ohms and the loom in volts. As you move the sender arm resistance should increase and decrease

Mine is the same as this, just a 200tdi cross member which sits under the exhaust and has plenty of clearance

I have just changed back from a 1.2 box to a 1.4 and I think the 1.4 is much better suited to the v8. That said I am running 33s so you might get away with the 1.2 on standard tyres. Truck will now happily break the speed limit if asked

The Thor requires its own version of the megasquirt kit from nige, brackets are different and FPR is needed i have Thor fitted to my 3.9 and am very pleased with it

Mega jolt just controls spark, where as mega squirt controls spark and fuel injection. If you were to use the Devils trumpets then you would only require mega jolt dont be put off by how complex it seems, it is deceptively simple. I had no experience with auto electrics before I fitted mine and found it relatively straight forward. if I were doing it again I would get the later 4.0 to do away with the need for a dumpy dizzy as you say. The megasquirt/jolt does not need it, it is there to drive the oil pump on the v-belt engines and to just plug a hole on the serp engines

Well worth the money imo One thing I do not do with it though is snatch gears like it is so tempting to do, we have always used quick shifts on out minis (same thing only not so slick) but tearing through the gears on those as fast as you can made short work of the synchro hubs as they get less time to do what they need to. Just thought I would share

Toby, what flavour rear springs are you using? I have OME standard duty +2 springs all around my 110 and the ride is absolutely savage! I don't have any extra weight in it and it is a truck cab so obviously too light for a spring made for a CSW in mind. Need to soften it up a little but not sure where to start Sorry for the thread hijack

I agree with this, the length and diameter of the pipe is more crucial on a NA engine where pressure wave scavenging is important, surely on a turbo car you need to get it out of the turbo as fast as possible as any restriction would choke up the turbine making work less efficiently and making it hotter

Ford mondeo twin fans seems to be a popular choice

This You can get an all copper rad, I think mine is allmakes, with an oil cooler on the side for about £300(it might have been a little less than that) and at 50mph+ my temp gauge doesn't creep up much past 1/3 and gets just over 2/3 when my fans kick in to bring it down in traffic. I am not running a stat though

Is it running lean atall?

My v8 runs on a TD rad. The rad is fine but your rad may not be, has it been flushed atall? You have already addressed retarded timing, the only thing I would say about that is you shouldnt nessasarly beleve the timing mark lies, Mine is 8-10° out which I could only figure out with a piston stop So you could find yourself advancing it further Your fan is on the correct side of the radiator?

This of any use to you? http://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapers.php You might be able to identify what flavour taper you have

The best advice that could be given to a beginner is: 1. avoid the gasless MIGs, they are not the best things to learn on and do not give very good results 2. Spend the money getting a good branded auto darkening welding screen. It's not worth Buying a sub standard one from China/eBay for the sake of saving £15 over a half decent branded one. They are there to protect your eyes

Have you identified where the misfire is? Checked leads, plugs and gaps?

Not massive amounts on mine, I would have thought ash is pushing 600-800nm

Totally understand what you mean about the drums. They were fairly hard to find but not unobtainable, when the cummins conversion became more popular they got snapped up as soon as they came up for sale. I wouldnt bother with one, they become expensive when you realise you havnt got all the bits to fit it and even more so when broken. 4pin diff won't be as strong but nige at xcess can get it pretty close

You won't gain anything by replacing the sailsbury as it is one of the strongest landrover axles you can fit in standard trim. if you fit a 24spline axle and a 4pin diff to the front I'm not sure you can get much stronger without upgrading. My self and ash whitty are running sailsbury front and rear axles, i have a v8 which never sees an easy day and ash has a very heavy engine over the front that puts out so much torque the truck stays motionless and moves the world under it. I've not broken mine and I don't think he has had any trouble, So I ask why so worried?

They are scared of answering the phone incase you have a go at them about late or wrong orders, I'm sure they have blocked my number

Could you not work out the taper by using Pythagoras followed by sin/tan/cos?