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LandyManLuke

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Everything posted by LandyManLuke

  1. Cheers Jez, That's something i'm still pondering. trouble is, at the mo, any post relating to absolutely anything regarding axles normally ends up with 'fit portals', or long off topic replies like the last 3 pages. Portals, and axle swaps, are off the cards at least on the 90, once i've got the rr bob project on the go that might be a different story, but all i was after was some advice, or experience on which CVs to fit. how about a portals board? PS, i'm not dissing what you, Dan, Andy or anyone has done re portals, it all rocks, it's just not what i asked about! Luke
  2. Thanks for the figures Dave, interesting reading. As Ian says, any idea what sort of repeatability there is with those figures? Thanks Luke
  3. I'm after a pair of CVs for the 90, and whilst i can't afford a pair of Ashcroft or Longfield CVs, I don't want to fit something akin to dairy milk. Paddocks have them for about ~£30, I'm presuming these come in either dairy milk or yorkie flavours. My local indy (Mansfield 4x4) are quoting ~£70, which i'm hoping will buy me a better CV. Does anyone have experience of who makes 'alright' CVs, and for what sort of money? Cheers Luke
  4. Les, Thanks. I'll be replacing the swivel balls both sides as well as they're pitted, so i'll have plenty to keep me busy. Luke
  5. Another great write up Les, perfectly timed as I've this job to do on my 90 shortly. A question, is there any need, apart from weight, to remove the hub? i was planning to just remove the calliper and the swivel pins and take the whole hub off, after taking the circlips etc of the stub axle. Hopefully i've not missed something. I only had the bearings apart a few months ago to change them. Cheers Luke
  6. Hmm, it's on the Defender Archive on LRO, probably have to be logged in to view it. It's was written by Peter from Difflock, and i found it very interesting. Luke
  7. Info on MTF, ATF and other oils for gearboxes here I've just ordered some MTF75D, looking forward to seeing what it's like. Luke
  8. If you're feeling flush and not in a hurry, order some MTF from difflock, it's supposed to really make a difference to the LR boxes, i'm waiting for some to be delivered. Luke
  9. IIRC it's 2.7 L capacity, or there abouts. Luke
  10. I've got 255/85's, but they're Wildcat Durango, same pattern as the (old) BFG MT. I use them in the mud, as well as the 200 mile trip up and down the A1/A14 from here to home. they're surprisingly quiet, seem to wear well, and they're a bit cheaper than the BFGs. Luke
  11. Yup, they seem just fine. they don't hold the pressure over any long length of time, the pipework empties itself after 2 -3 hrs. that's why i've got ball valves on both tanks. the losses from the joints are negligable, compared to pressure variations due to temperature changes, which are quite high. Luke
  12. adding a second reservoir is fun! my progress so far is here. this is why i was asking about pressure sensors a while ago. Luke
  13. I'd heard commonly goes at the back of No.4, around 100k. mine did at 97k. Luke
  14. FWIW, adding an extra tank looks like sound economy, i've just picked up a >200L tank off ebay for 15 quid, item 7623284185. Just got to decide how to use it now, should be useful for spraying etc. Luke
  15. Ahh, ok, thanks. Presume that is why the injectors are so expensive? Luke
  16. oh right, thought it was a common rail engine? with solenoid valve-work in each injector? jus' wonderin' Luke
  17. Epoxy is incredibly strong stuff, especially when mixed properly and at the right temperature. we've glued bits of boat together with it without any worries at all, after testing showed that the wood would shear itself before the epoxy gave way. i know engines/crankshafts are a different ball game, but the stuff is incredibly strong. Luke
  18. Mondeo fan vote here. my writeup here Luke
  19. the bolts holding the box to the chassis were 'king tight on mine. you'll need new lock plates for the bolts unless you're happy flattening and re-using the old ones, i just replaced them for the few pence they are. removing the drop arm could be easier with the box off, it depends what tools you've got. lining up the new box onto the bolts is a bit of a hassle, as it doesnt sit right on the chassis rail. think you can get new seal kits from the likes of paddocks etc. steering UJ's dont just need slackening off, the bolt has to come out, it took me a couple of goes pulling it off to realise, d'oh. Luke
  20. depending on the DVD player, you could burn them onto CD as a VCD or MPEG, DIVX etc, but it does depends on the DVD player supporting those formats. Luke
  21. I agree with you, but you can't round 18.49 down, cos then Nige hasn't got enough hole for his hole. so to speak. Luke
  22. 18.49 so 19, can't go rounding down tsk tsk 20 in a 4 x 5 grid? Luke Incidently, as Pi is a common factor, it cancels out. 43² / 10² = 18.49 siggy you forgot to square.
  23. Which independant specialist? PM me if you don't mind saying. no worries if you don't want to. Luke
  24. a d reg 300tdi rebuild is worth less that 6K, it depends how much you value the 'wolf' effect, which isnt genuine. Is this the first vehicle you've looked at/contemplated an offer on? if so, it's worth waiting to find what you want, rather than getting in there straight away. Luke
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