AMB

Cannot comment on the specific service, never used them or know anyone who has. In days gone by, I used to Waxoyl on all my cars - especially after repairs. It did work, but very messy to apply, difficult to do properly and needed top-up every 2-3 years. That was on road going cars. I can easily imagine that it would not last that long with off road use and power washing. When I got my '98 110, it had been professionally undersealed by the second owner at about 2 years old. Apart from the rear cross member and a bit of scabbing elsewhere the chassis and bulkhead were solid. I'm past the age when getting personally waxoyled to save a few pounds seems like an acceptable option, so I paid out for a professional Dinitrol treatment. Only a few months old, so cannot comment on long term benefit.

Last time that I bought from a garage we were in a similar situation - cash in hand and no car to trade. I started by asking whether they were open to offers, to which the answer was "try me". I responded that, I didn't have a car to trade, but if I had traded my old car they'd have made a £1000 loss on the deal, so let's start there. He counter offered (probably as a matter of principle). Having established the principle of a discount, I then challenged the asking price on the basis of price guides and other dealers. Having got the asking price down, I went back asking for a full service (to the garages advantage to reduce probability of warranty claims), rectification of a couple of minor faults, inaccuracies in the advert, discount on accessories etc. I think that we were both happy at the end of the negotiation, but the salesman was not quite as happy as he otherwise would have been. I was prepared to say sorry, we're too far away, shake hands and walk out if necessary. Many years ago I found that to be very effective - the salesman called me back near the end of the month and offered me a better deal. Unfortunately, with the Defender market, dealers have the upper hand with something in good condition.

I've just visited the website and taken a pdf of my entitlements - just in case of future dispute. My motorcycle license still states "unlimited" and I can still drive vehicles with up to 16 passengers (plus tractor and mower).

Never dealt with the NFU, but generally best to prepare for the worst then be pleasantly surprised. Asking for the engineers report and talking to the assessor sounds like a very good idea. Gives you a good idea as to whether it might be worth buying back and also the chance to boost the offer. Don't challenge the offer if you intend to buy back! When my last car was written off, I found it very useful to compile a list of all similar cars advertised (trade and private) with comments about condition/extras relative to mine. The insurers tried to palm me off with a lower spec "equivalent" and Glass's Guide Average condition. Some time ago, I had reason to talk to Glass's when negotiating a price for my daughter's car. Useful info gained - Glass's price is a UK average which smooths over regional variations. I successfully argued that I lived in a high price area, therefore Glass's was providing an artificially low estimate. Also, if not a sufficient number being sold then the guide price is almost irrelevant - being statistically insignificant. In the days of the Insurance Ombudsman (now Ofcom?) he ruled that the replacement value should be based on local forecourt prices. As far as I'm aware that ruling has never changed. My daughters car was 10 years old and therefore very few being sold and not a lot on the forecourt! So I suceesfully argued a "forecourt premium" based on other slightly newer cars and Glass's guide. Final settlement was on the basis of discounting Glass's because too few trade sales to be valid, local advertised prices, plus "forecourt premium", an allowance for the time for which she was inconvenienced by lack of car and a nominal amount to cover cost of buying a replacement. It did take some negotiation, required me to demand copies of the Glass's data together with the assessment calculation (and then prove that they had miscalculated the effect of mileage), supply my data on average price etc and also to suggest that, if they could buy an equivalent replacement at their offer price, to go away and do it and keep the balance of the offer. They settled. Good Luck

That';s the serpentine belt - drives water pump, alternator, power steering.

Glad that you are OK. Now the fight starts over insurance.

Section 12 of the manual referenced (https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/10878731/d50-ln-v2050d-decals-countax-tractor-spares wiring loom, p31 of 39). Part number 34 (Battery Charger). No sign of any charge regulator or alternator. Section 14 of the same document is the engine, but no electrical details given

I found a service drawings and parts list but it only illustrates the loom. When it comes to charging it assumes an external mains powered charger and refers you to the manual for Yanmar 2V78-CA For what it's worth https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/10878731/d50-ln-v2050d-decals-countax-tractor-spares

I'm with Sharpe. LRs do tend to be a hobby or become one. If it didn't you would soon get annoyed with some of the idiosyncrasies. If you need something for business then let business criteria drive your choice. If you decide on an LR then condition wins every time.

My 300Tdi 110 returns 25-27mpg on average. The last long run (300 miles, mix of motorway and A/B roads) returned just under 30mpg.

In my limited experience, mainly of other peoples vehicles, I'd say that, if a Td5 is going well it's a good option. However, as an electronics engineer, I know that electronics and cars don't mix particularly well and sorting out associated problems can be an expensive trial and error exercise. That's why I went for a 300 and the cheaper tax on a pre March 2001 vehicle.

You've got a lot more practical experience on the usage. My background is electronics, so can only comment on the need for 6 wires on the basis of the most likely configuration. I was thrown by the original mention of rotor and magnet. Cannot recall seeing anything like that since my Matchless 650!

6 wires would tend to indicate a three phase rotor with field winding, ie not just a rotor and magnet. 3 wires from alternator, battery live plus earth and field. If so, I would expect a charge lamp to be connected between ignition live and the field winding, to ensure a trickle into the field winding on start up as well as provide charge indication.

This might be worth a look http://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/types/regulators-/regulator-rectifier-kubota-rtv500-grasshopper-718d-721d-721g-1822d/ or this http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-for-Grasshopper-Kubota-185530-RP201-53710-/271095558363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1e8df0db Apparently, both Kubota and John Deere rebadged Yanmars. I used to work with encapsulated electronics - soldering iron plus scalpel and screwdriver worked best for removing, but need to be careful - resins cure to the maximum temperature to which they are taken. Heat with a soldering iron and it sets even harder on cooling - you need to be quick.

There can't be too much to the regulator if the generator is a simple rotor and magnet. What's the fuse rating? Does it look anything like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Voltage-regulator-3-5-KW-for-diesel-engines-L40-L48-L60-L70-L75-L90-L100-YANMAR-/141348622404?pt=UK_BOI_FarmingEquipment_RL&hash=item20e908d044 £30-90 incl postage

Don't know whether seat rails would sort the problem with a pickup. They lift the seat up by about 25mm and set the seat mountings back - allowing you to set the seat about 70mm further back from standard. In my 110 CSW, I wouldn't do without them. However, I doubt that the pickup would allow the seat to be set that far back and, if it did, it would make the headrest situation rather worse. Different seats?

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-341-single-track.aspx Measure your glass thickness before you order.

Glad to be of assistance. However, I would like to make it absolutely clear that I have never owned, wanted to own or otherwise had anything to do with "classic" citroens

Is http://www.classic-citroen-tech.co.uk/models/model-content/2CV/2cv-Handbook.pdf of any use? or this? Lots of data on http://www.classic-citroen-tech.co.uk

Likewise - I wouldn't be happy to use them and, because they've shipped in that state, wouldn't be happy with a replacement set. If you can see that many faults at the machined surface, what is there likely to be lurking beneath the surface?

Don't know enough about the Td5 electrics to say definitely whether fitting the panel would solve isues with LED indicators, but I doubt it. As Retroanaconda says, the issue with LED indicators is usually that they take a lot less current than the standard bulb. Older flasher units used a bi-metallic strip in the current path to flash the indicators at between 60 and 120 per minute. Reduce the amount of current taken by the indicators by using LEDs and the flash rate will reduce unacceptably unless the LEDs are also fitted with load resistors. I don't see how removing the dash warning light would make any difference. Newer indicators tend to use a transistor drive, so no change in flash rate with load. However, they may incorporate balance coils to detect whether the current taken by the front is roughly the same as that from the rear (ie whether a bulb has failed) and plain LEDs may not take enough current to work the system unless the flasher is designed to work with LEDs.

The little thermometer warning light is for the transmission oil temperature if fitted. The engine with lightning bolt through it symbol is Engine Immobilisation and should flash if you try to start the engine whilst the immobiliser is still active.

Will it go on it's side before trying to tip one end up? and also lift the battery before trying to tip.

If only a narrow crack I tend to use Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. It's water based, very low viscosity, gets sucked into narrow cracks by capilliary action and sets clear. Because of that I occasionally need a couple of applications to block the leak. Then I usually follow up with a smear of Loctite 5368. I use 5368 because it was used on special vehicles at work and I could get it easily. Being black it was not out of place on my 110. If a wide crack, I still use both 5368 and the creeping crack cure, but put the mastic on first and let it dry.

Same information as I found - but, if it works, don't hold down for too long, it's likely to toggle back if you do.