AMB

Sorry did not make myself clear. The first link shows a seal which fits your description and Ralph's parts book. Second link was included for completeness, because it listed the same part number against a completely different part.

See item 11 on the call out diagram associated with this: http://demo-basic-oe.nexpartb2c.com/catalog-4/category/roof/land-rover/.NULL./_/roof?currentpage=2 LRcat shows them as much bigger and running along the top of the rear window panel, but thsat does not correlate with your description http://lrcat.com/31/4/52732

Your local adult education centre may be able to offer general maintenance courses, but gearboxes require specific skills which even experienced mechanics may not be willing to tackle. In my younger days I have tackled gearbox repairs, but never a complete refurbishment and never a Land Rover. One of the issues then was availability of spares. I doubt that has changed except for the worse. Gearboxes either needed bearings and seals or replacement of the primary shafts, gears etc, Nothing in-between. You required a large number of drifts and a lot of brute force to dismantle - treating synchromesh with a great deal of respect. It didn't take much for a synchromesh to spring apart and it was easy to cut yourself on worn gears in the confined working space. The bit that you needed to get to was always the l;ast bit in the gearbox. I was lucky in having a brother who trained as an apprentice in United Counties Bus Garage in Northampton. Gearboxes were bread and butter to them. Unfortunately, he died a few years ago. Even had he still been alive, I doubt that I would tackle a gearbox now. I endorse leaving it to the experts.

When picking up a hire car in Germany I was offered a choice of winter or "normal". Winter tread was little different to normal. Turned out that the main difference was in the compound used. Winter compounds remain flexible at lower temperatures. So use will depend on likely temperature, not just snow or ice.

I wouldn't trust them, after all the police don't trust the portable version that they carry and it's a lot more sophisticated than anything that you or I might buy. If worried, I'd suggest that you purchase some of the disposable ones that the French require all drivers to carry. They are designed for a lower limit than the UK legal limit so should have a considerable "safety" margin. My former employers used to hand them out to anyone hiring a car and driving abroad, so I have a couple somewhere. Never used one, so don't know how clear the indication is.

I think that you have your calculations a few decimal points out! Blood is approximately 6% denser than water, alcohol about 20% less dense. 100ml of blood weighs about 106g. 50mg per 100ml is less than 0.05% by weight. Have you been trying a practical assessment?

Thanks for the suggestions. Will be on the phone again this afternoon. Although my vehicle is a Defender, a lot of websites don't let you put in the correct date ('98 in my case). I spoke to one agent yesterday who tried to tell me that Defenders were first made in 2006 because that's what his system told him! Yet no available category for a '98, 110, 5 door (CSW), 2495cc diesel. I didn't have much hair to start with.

I've not had any luck with Adrian Flux. They have been consistently far more expensive than other insurers. Perhaps I have been too honest in declaring (minor) modifications to my more or less standard '98, 110 Tdi CSW. It also seems that my wife's recent driving record adversely affects my premium - although she would not be a driver on the Defender policy, none of the accidents have been her fault, bar one 50/50 no damage incident, 3rd party admitted full liability and no claims not affected on the others. Anybody offer any suggestions for good insurers? I'm not an off-roader and the Defender was a retirement present to myself for occasional boat towing and general pottering.

Park switch can also be loose in the mounting - giving erratic operation.

Western is right - amend details in V5, send to DVLA. I had no problems. More issues with this years insurance - they wanted details of the engine receipt despite being a like for like swap.

Have just checked on my '98 110 CSW. Arches sit proud of the wings by 3".

I'm with Tanuki. On the road it must be good quality consistent tyres. You cannot guarantee that with remoulds. However, I can see that there is a place for remoulds for serious off road work.

Did you take the live feed from the alternator? That's the highest voltage point. Unless you did so, you will not be getting maximum light output. However, I would suggest that you consider changing from sealed beams to make on the road replacement more convenient. I seem to remember that conventional tungsten filament household lamps have an inverse 7th power relationship between life and working voltage. Vehicle bulb design has different design requirements from household lamps because of the vibration etc. so may be less susceptible to failure under higher voltages. If not, carrying and swapping a bulb in the cold dark and wet is far easier than carrying and swapping a sealed beam.

You might be lucky and get a stubby easy-out in there. Almost certainly longer than 1.5" and shorter than 6.5", so will fit between Torx head and binnacle and a stubby start version may not require drilling of the torx head. Cheap at £3.99 from Screwfix or similar, so worth a try.

A bit late reponding on this topic, but dimming LED headlamps can be a complicate issue. At the heart of the issue is the LED itself - a comparatively small difference in voltage across it will make the diffeence between no light and damage. That's why LED lights are internally fed via a resistor or active current limiting device. Cheap lamps use resistors, expensive ones active control. Put a resistor in front of an active control and it will compensate up until the point where the light dims uncontrollably - rev the engine, increase the volts and the lights could come on full. I may be wrong, but believe that the issue of being MoT exempt and therefore not completely subject to current road legislation would not prevent the police prosecuting, if the vehicle was not to original build standard or better. All in all, decision to go for lr headlights probably the best option.

For those who don't speak Russian (including me), a Google translation: "Greetings to all! Guys, I'm from Ukraine itself and come to you here with this question: I have a Defender 3.5 v8, and I want him to put in an automatic transmission. Help advice with which to pick. Sorry for my English!"

Aldi, this week - plastic folding step, £3.99

Assume that you have already tried Google (including image search since you know what he looks like)? You could try pipl.com for internet presence and, if he is still in the UK, 192.com or the census for an address. There would appear to be a report of someone using the same name and also accused of fraud here. The same name (with picture) appears on a couple of dating sites and Facebook. Good luck with your search

I don't see anyone calling you a liar either. I do see a lot of experienced people finding the figures difficult to believe/achieve and querying how you got them. The Disco had apparently only been serviced a couple of hundred miles before you bought it. You drove some 600 miles including a long motorway journey, averaging 24-27mpg then posted here about poor fuel economy. By the time that you had done a fill to fill test and got just under 38mpg, all that you claim to have done was put in some Wynns, checked that the fan was not seized and had a good run. Yet the improvement was near 50%. Are you surprised that people want to know more? I certainly do.

Mudstuff do one. or buy an adapter from Ebay at £2-49

I'm with Anderzander, - "its not that I don't believe it - just that its hard to believe !"

I agree with Steve B - switch on the indicator stalk. When I bought my 110 the headlamps would only function on flash. When I took the steering column cowl off the cause was obvious - the headlamp contacts are open and one had been bent out of position. I carefully bent it back and it has worked ever since. Suspect that yours will need a replacement. Overload on the circuit is likely to have caused the contacts to overheat and the plastic mount to melt and distort.

I find 32-38mpg out of a Td5 Auto incredible and would suspect the odometer gearing on your first Disco. Manufacturers figures are notoriously optimistic and they claim 27 for the auto and 30 for the manual. My experience on other cars would suggest that cruise control is slightly less efficient than a light right foot plus anticipation. However, that experience also highlighted vast differences in the capability of the cruise control. I agree that pairing it with a good auto box is likely to have less effect on mpg than lazy use with a manual.

Mice are amazing creatures. I can confirm that they only need a pencil diameter hole to enter, can jump to extraordinary heights and also run up brick walls. Try Soda crystals plus biological detergent and a good soak.

My vote would be for coincidence. The header tank is weak. With age the plastic hardens, making it vulnerable and the increased temperature/pressure may just have been the last straw