AMB

I'm not familiar with EPC, but have had success with running Win 95 programmes using an XP emulator. If your version of Windows 7 is Pro or Ultimate, you are licensed to install an XP partition/emulator. Surprisingly Windows 10 has also proved better than Windows 7 at running earlier programmes.

Heater on my 300Tdi was useless when I first got it, but a combination of flushing the matrix, lubricating and adjusting the cables made a vast difference. There's still too much air to the passenger side, though my wife does not agree with that assessment. Will wait for the summer to play with balancing the flow and hope that she doesn't notice once it gets cold again.

I've not fixed it on an LR but have done so on a couple of other vehicles. Broken tracks are easy - once you have located the fault. Sometimes you can spot the slight tarnishing at the break, but easier to use a voltmeter. I switched the screen on and used one end connected to earth and with a pin rigged as a probe on the other terminal to narrow down the search. Fixed the break using silver loaded epoxy. You need to remove the top varnish for about a cm either side of the break and then apply the epoxy or silver loaded paint over the exposed length. Terminals are more difficult! I soldered a length of copper foil to the base of the terminal to extend the surface area of the new connection, silver loaded epoxy to connect the foil onto the track and straight epoxy to bond the terminal back onto the window. Glass needed to be absolutely clean and a good quality epoxy (not polyurethane etc) to fix it.

Lucky that it didn't fire. A friend cracked the head on his MG 1100 when it caught first turn with water in one bore. Agree with the corrosion theory. Oil down all bores. Leave for a while. When trying to dislodge treat it like a bump start, but higher gear - rolling then drop the clutch (but wear your seatbelt).

Merry Christmas all

Best results when performed on a running engine. When winterizing marine engines standard procedure was to Remove old oil and filters - old oil will be contaminated, can be acid and contaminants can settle out as a varnish/goop. Put in enough fresh to be able to turn the engine over and coat internal surfaces, Reverse flush out all cooling galleries to remove sludge before it settles and hardens. Fogging oil sprayed down the cylinders (and into carbs etc if appropriate to engine type) turn over engine to distribute then spray again. Heavier oil in cylinders if very long term. Penetrating oil, then grease on all exposed threads Oily rag and then tape inlets and outlets Brush/spray the outer with oil/grease. Do not seal the engine in a plastic sack or similar - that traps water and encourages corrosion.

If the belt is tight and the pulley rock solid, it is certainly starting to look as if it is the alternator. Just a little surprised at the behaviour of the rev counter.

I'm assuming that your rev counter runs off the W terminal on the alternator? The W terminal outputs an unrectified AC voltage, the frequency of which is proportional to the alternator speed. If originally set correctly and now reading low/intermittent then the alternator is either not turning as fast as the engine/pulley arrangement should or the rectifier could be damaged, causing an iregular waveform to be output. Even with an irregular waveform, the rev counter should increase with revs, although it may not be accurate. Silly question, if the belt is OK is the pulley firm on the shaft?

As above! The vehicle remains your property until such time as you agree pay out etc from the insurers. You have not contracted the insurers agents to remove the car and are therefore not liable for recovery apart possibly from police action. Report the vehicle as stolen and, as such, ask the police to recover the vehicle from Copart.. They may be reluctant to do so, but will probably bend when you point out that they were complicit in illegal activity in releasing the vehicle without checking with the owner. inform your insurers that you have done so, that the police report details damage before the vehicle was illegally removed and, by their actions, the insurance company have made themselves responsible for all subsequent damage and costs. Good point from James about removing the write-off marker. Do it quick before you are talking compensation for loss of vehicle rather than recovery of the vehicle. It is also customary in the event of a beyond economic repair to offer it to the owner at 20% of the assessed value. As a matter of interest, which insurance company? I had dealings with Copart when our Scenic was BER. Despite ongoing negotiations with my insurers, Copart were pestering to collect the car almost from day one. I had to tell them to go away. There were also subsequent problems with DVLA paperwork. Despite submitting change of ownership and receiving acknowledgement, two years later I received a Speedwatch letter for it from the Gwent police. They were helpful and apologetic when I supplied the DVLA confirmation. DVLA were less so and refused to change their database, presumably because the trade doesn't necessaril;y have to register ownership and they didn't have change of ownership papers from the latest private owner. Apparently the car was sold to a Polish company specialising in RH drive vehicles.

Bought my first LR a couple of years ago. Never previously owned one, but had driven them and other 4x4s all over the world in my job. Mainly equipment trials and surveying. Impressed with the ability to go almost anywhere and that the professionals relied on them to rescue far more modern and supposedly more capable vehicles. When I retired and lost the company car, I wanted a load carrier and tow vehicle (mainly boats) that I could maintain myself. Having been an electronics engineer used to shoehorning electronics into harsh environments and then testing them to death, I had a low opinion of consumer vehicle electronics and wanted minimum electronics. My 300Tdi does all of that.

Agree with Peter. Do both ends - master cylinder went 3000 miles after the slave on my 110.

All of the above! Though I probably wouldn't have bothered going any further than the initial advert. Apart from the concentration on bling, no real information of use and that which was given was inaccurate. eg MoT until 1/2016? no, a licence check on the government vehicle enquiry shows MoT Expired: 15 May 2015. Has it been sitting for 4 months? If so where? Google the mobile numbers given, one in Plymouth, the other near Sheffield, LR in Bewdley. Personalised number plate, but not mentioned. Blanking plate on roof - possibly for warning lamp. Google the reg and image - confirms the the asking price as of 15th August was £6995. Obviously trouble selling. No pictures of seats without covers, mismatched trim in rear etc Its a bitsa.

Agree with Bowie69, no recent experience on LR but have used for many years and not had a problem.

Forum discount?

I think that it very much depends which branch you deal with and who you talk to. I've never managed to get insurance completely online and always ended up on the phone. NFU main office have been useless, branch office helpful. AF totally useless, likewise Lancaster - silly prices despite clean history/license, near standard 110 CSW and low annual mileage. Currently with Elephant.

Not too far

Where are you in Sussex? Could possibly help if you have a suitable dash cam.

I agree with Cynic-al. 12v supplies are readily available and can be relatively cheap, but the issue will be peak and average current draw when deciding suitability. I found data for the high output ARB compressor kit here That would suggest 25A load. You can pay anywhere between £25 and £200 for a suitable supply. Battery charger and old battery sounds more practical.

From memory they are rated at 90W nominal, so say 7.5 amps each. I'd guess that peak current could be 1.5 times nominal.

My concern would be the field windings. In order to get 24v the field current would need to be increased and possibly run the alternator at higher revs.

You may find this link of use. It's for the PC200 panel which also uses the SPE probe. According to the leaflet SPE is a capacitive probe and the screw on the tank sensor is for minor adjustment.

I'm with FridgeFreezer on this. 24v equipment is generally very reliable, being designed for commercial use. A 75A, 24v Alternator is equivalent to a 120A 12v alternator in terms of power output and you may need to consider upgrading pulley and belt in order to accommodate that power. Bearings and regulator are the most likely failure items. Bearings are failry standard and a spare regulator is of the order of £25. A 24v to 12v converter limited to 6A or so should easily run at greater than 80% efficiency.

At 14.2v you should be OK - as your experience would suggest. However, take that to 14.4v for any length of time and you are on the threshold of damage. That threshold is temperature sensitive. Gel batteries are more sensitive than AGM to overcharging.

Yes, a second alternator rigged as a separate charging circuit would allow a lot more freedom to mix battery types in a dual battery set up. However, I'd be concerned about using a standard LR charge control with either AGM or gel batteries - they can be easily damaged by over charging.

Mine came fitted with a Halfords Calcium. Now ~7 years old and just beginning to fade. Will need to replace before winter. My setup is bog standard, no winches etc and the only regular accessory used is a cold box (5A). At the moment I'm dithering whether to go for a well spec'ed battery like the Yuasa Silver, another Halfords, or half way house like the Varta. Whatever I buy it will be a calcium/silver because of the tolerance to stop start use and good charge retention. If you intend to go dual battery there could be problems with mixing deep cycle (leisure) batteries with batteries more suited to stop start - they have different charge/discharge characteristics (obviously!) which means that charging the leisure battery in situ may take a long time or never reach full charge. Think hard about the type of load that you may want to put on a dual battery set up and associated patterns of use before committing.