C18RCH

It was but I did turn it slightly just to get the arm to drop in easily. Ie it's easier that trying to turn the wheels. Yeah, steering damper still on. Will check tonight. It's about a year old now but it's never been used so should be ok. Going to disconnect the track rod from the drop arm and see how many turns I get. That should tell me if it's catching somewhere or if the steering box is bu&&ered.

Maybe, but I should be getting more than two turns from lock to lock which is what makes me think its catching on something

I've fitted my 1988 110 with a disco power steering system. Took it for its first test run today (in the yard where it is stored), and I've only got 2 turns lock to lock and no left hand lock at all (with the track rods set to correct lengths as above). I can't see anything obVious that it is catching on but could there be another reason for it that I'm missing? Cheers, Rich

Would a 90 rear axle off a 2005 vehicle be ok on a 110?

Does anyone know who makes the stainless snorkle in these pictures: http://www.landroverworld.co.uk/features/drives/824-space-wars Also, hidden vote to see who is the first to say they like the redhead?

Slightly more complicated (and possibly less secure) but you could design it so that it dropped and latched into position then you only have to wind it the last inch or two. If you put it in the right place it could be dual role as a jack, but then it would have to have a long travel :rollyeyes:

what about re-designing the bonnet stay so that cannot be easily removed from either bonnet or grille? this would also prevent the bonnet being rotated far enough to remove it from the bulkhead. The older style scissor type bonnet stays require removal of a the split pin which I'm sure could be easily modified to take an anti tamper bolt. I'm sure you could even do it with a gas strut arrangement. Anything to get rid of that leathal scissor stay .

I keep toying with the idea of fitting a CB panel like this one to replace the fuse box: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-8-Gang-Black-Wave-Design-Switch-Panel-Circuit-Breakers-10028BK-Boat-Marine-/140870303967?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item20cc8640df#ht_895wt_934 Quite an expensive solution given how inexpensive fuses (especially for the higher current CBs) are but for expedition/competition use it would give you the same quick fault finding and no need to carry spare fuses. Has anyone tried this before?

Especially when you can buy an elevating roof for not a lot and just bolt it straight on: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-POP-TOPS-UNIVERSAL-LAND-ROVER-110-also-fitsFORD-CONNECT-ELEVATING-ROOF-KIT-/151045736085?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item232b070695#ht_499wt_1172

Yeah, the fuel solenoid is plain white but as far as I can tell from the Haynes manual and a wiring diagram of the ignition, the white and black is what provides 12v while cranking to the plain white circuit?

Turned out not to be just the solenoid. You were sort of right. The white to the fuel solenoid is definitely the right one as it is the only one I have left spare but there was no voltage when cranking. After checking the ignition, it appears that the white and black wire is missing. I've put a temporary wire from the ignition straight to the fuel solenoid as a temporary fix to allow me to start and move it. Got it running today for the first time in two years! Anyway, by not having the white and black wire is there anything else that may be affected?

Yeah, return and supply are right way round. Took the solenoid out today. Now have fuel to the injectors so will be getting a new solenoid for it tomorrow. Thanks for the replies everyone. Cheers, Rich

The sender has green and black, earth and white and slate. The old loom (19j) had white and slate feeds from the sender to the dash. The new 200tdi white and slate terminates at the circuit board in the dash section of the loom so I assume white and slate is not required at the sender?

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, 12v at the solenoid. You can also hear it clicking on and off if you remove the wire. Will try removing it though next time.

Having converted my 110 to a 200tdi and put a new loom in which only seems to have one wire to the fuel sender, do I still need the old white a slate wire which seems to be redundant. The white and slate wires at the front seem to be self contained within the dash. Cheers, Rich

Now that I'm getting to the stage where it's almost finished I tried to start the 110 for the first time in nearly 2 years today. Unfortunately no fuel seems to be getting through the injector pump. I've cracked the injectors at the pump and no fuel is getting through. It's getting as far as the pipe from the filter to the injector pump. I've checked the fuel cut off switch and that's fine. The pump is also turning at the timing belt end. I've followed the Haynes manual method of loosening the return pipe to bleed the system but this seems to have no effect. What else could I try or it be? I should probably also add its a 200tdi Cheers, Rich

I have an Ashtree bulkhead on mine. The only thing I had to do to it was run a tap through the rivnuts for the fuel filter etc. No warping, and considering that I fitted it to a replacement galv chassis (Richard Chassis) at the same time I was amazed at how easy evrything lined up when it went back together.

Sounds like your having the same fun as me. Got mine turning over for the first time in 2 years last week. Did a trial run of the electrics and the left hand side is completely out. Haven't looked too much into it yet but I suspect I've missed an earth somewhere.

Yeah, it's for the fuel circuit..

Suspension X-tension?

Between the seat and the bulkhead. Assuming you have a bulkhead

Thats what I do.

On public road. Don't think the neighbours would appreciate a security camera pointing out the window otherwise I would. As for balaclavas, no system is fool proof. Trackers can be blocked and alarms just get ignored, but at least it is another deterant and you would know more details such as time etc.

I've been thinking of using some sort of WiFi camera as an alarm. I already have one in the house which emails pictures to me if it detects motion has an NV capability so works in the dark too. Given that I park my landy outside the house (when it's not in bits ) it would be in range of the houses WiFi and therefore could email pictures when it detects motion. This would work no only for someone breaking in to it to steal it but also may work for someone just stealing parts off it. Problem is, whilst the webcam type ones are 12v they would also flatten the battery fairly quickly, the other types that wouldn't or run off batteries don't have WiFi and wouldn't be much good if the car got nicked with it in it. I just ned to combine the two somehow (if that's possible). Ideally it would be a cross between this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/5MB-Trail-camera-Colour-detection/dp/B003RUYR68/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt which can run off batteries for upto 6 months but has not WiFi capability and this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-IP-Network-Camera-Silver/dp/B00B5P8K92/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1365518500&sr=1-9&keywords=12v+ip+camera which would flatten the battery too quickly. My thoughts werte it could also double as a loop/accident recorder too.

Thanks for that gents. As it happens I've just found the same things myself: http://www.paddockspares.com/amr3849-link-lead.html Cheers, Rich