pete3000

don't forget to disconnect the brake hose, also refit the wheels and leave the trailing arms attached it will be more controlable (like a wheel barrow). as others say though and i found out it's still too heavy for a two man lift even with everything but the discs/hubs stripped. I lifted mine with an engine crane at each end whilst the axles were rolled out/in. admittedly though just the weight of the chassis.

there is one on Facebook atm ready camperized. https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/3000369380232165/?media_id=4&ref=share_attachment £45, 000 cough

The only issue i found was the return pipe gasket leaking through the screw holes on the top of the tank if brimmed, as they weren't blind holes, i did a follow up post with western to avoid the green/silver gasket thingy. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-tank-fitting-genuine-wfe000190kit-esr2000kit-nrc7570kit-wkk000020k-p-6638.html i got one of these afterwards which stopped the leak https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133655927607?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1iV2fv4oHQSqBj1wPZrgkkw66&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=133655927607&targetid=1394813963980&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006524&poi=&campaignid=14475941483&mkgroupid=129148085960&rlsatarget=pla-1394813963980&abcId=9300649&merchantid=113082367&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsK3b2cHF8wIV6ujtCh0ItAi1EAQYAyABEgIo1vD_BwE Pete

I don't use the plastic ones any more, they are horrid things. I had to remove the remains when trying to remove one which had been bodged in by a previous owner of the engine. Get some Brass ones with the nut profile on the top.

Door lock doorbell. The drivers door microswitch was the failure point on mine. The second giveaway was the EKA code wouldn't go in till it was repaired. i.e no response flash from the indicators. Pete

Do it from the top with an assistant. i.e reverse bleed it. air bubbles will naturally try and rise anyway and it saves time and effort under the landy. Fill the clutch reservoir (leave the cap off) and crack the nut on the master cylinder pipe union let it weep for a bit. Tighten the master cyl nut, push the pedal down hold a while then open the nut again and let the pedal up close the nut. Repeat until air bubbles stop. Keeping the reservoir topped up. Repeat an hour or so later to let the remaining air out.

Interesting mix of features, chassis has nato socket and hitch in cross member so not civvy spec, wolf 110 rear axle, topped up with a td5 and associated rear wheelarch fuel filter. looks like tank could be td5 spec? Pete

crimp the offending pipe/row either side of the leak, then drop some radweld into it?

Do you have the worn pump/hot start kit on it? Pete

Glad you got it sorted.

Might be worth a search on here or elsewhere but is the fuel injection pump coded to the engine ECU and BECM?

britannica restorations had a good post on original seals vs pattern parts well worth a view on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3ifGgeJfRY Pete

That should be fine, would allow any pivot interference to allow front bonnet edge to be lower. After my rebuild my closure gap is larger. Was thinking of looking for some adjustment in wings or the slam panel.

does it make any difference to the level, at the hinge end of the bonnet, if the plastic bushes are in the hinge the wrong way? as the slot is not in the centre? Pete

Only went in for bread & milk.......... came out with a paddling pool, grinder and a plastic trumpet.🤿

i.e when paid in at the bank..... they could refuse to take the lot....then indeed what is your other option? Pete

Depending on the model/year the usual suspect is the VC/IRD, a lot that are up for sale have the rear prop removed. Could be there is a temp sensor which is telling you when to give up and let it cool down. Hence the limited rev range? https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/freelander-parts.html Obviously the dragging brake pad/caliper won't help

I cut 18mm from each side on my lt77 seatbox to allow the r380 wright off road matting to fit. rounded the corner cut with a file to avoid a stress fracture. I put an r380 in years ago but trimmed up the face of the seatbox.

The only other thought is the notes were lighter (worn down) or wrong paper (counterfeit). So maybe don't look too close?. Just a thought.

hit it with landrover hammer no.5 🤠

have a look on youtube "solar ice maker". For now i'm just enjoying breaking it in on the mains. I've clocked 2x 12v 100w panels doing 160w so 80w peak each. May need to tweak with more panels.

Dometic cdf36 here, only 12/24v power option, but was cheaper and a bit lighter than the mains/dc version. Figured if you wanted to run it off the mains you can get an adapter brick from amazon for the job for around £20-25. Pulls around 3.5A when compressor is on, which isn't often if you can put it in a sensible shaded tent or under the landy if you are with it. Aim is to run it and an ice maker off 4x 100w solar panels and 24v inverter. The desktop ice makers are £130 and pull around 230v@95w once the compressor is started. Pete

this should be your first point of reference, followed by lrworkshop.com Pete

You should have form 654 decomissioning document? From there a google search suggests v55/4 form From hmvf forum.......When the vehicle was sold off from the MoD it will have been issued with a Form 654 "application for disposal of a cast vehicle' which enables you to register it for the roads. Before attempting to register the vehicle you will need to have insurance and a valid MOT. Both of these can be done on the chassis number. You will then need to take these, the 654 and a filled out V55/4 to the local DVLA office. You will need to pay the registration fee which is around £50 and pay for 6 or 12 months road tax at the same time.

Several setups https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/15895048/campingaz-camp-bistro-2-portable-gas-stove-15895048/?istCompanyId=c2ec8a5d-93c1-4850-a97a-f4d89d7c99c8&istFeedId=2755fba0-7dfe-46a9-bfd0-09b37aed8b93&istItemId=iiiqlilrt&istBid=t&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk-fPuLrC8QIVirh3Ch2wgQrsEAQYAiABEgJ0EPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds when you need something for a cuppa or a quick meal. The butane refils are cheap and plentiful. (aldi/lidl/supermarkets). No mess no faff. For an upgrade especially if you have petrol cans coleman sportster 533 (petrol) and a 5 or 10L petrol jerrycan. A full tank on the stove will typically last 2 days or so. Blow moulded case is useful. Will fit in the undeseat box of the 110then for family camping or extended stays the coleman 424 stove (petrol again). 1 main burner and 1 simmer/keepwarm. lid and sides are windshields. The tank/pressure assembly removes to refill. once your hooked, the the coleman 282 or 285 lanterns are brilliant additions (no pun). The petrol vs calor gas is available anywhere, spares (washers/mantles) are plentiful and can be kept in a plastic tub. Pete