pete3000

We need pictures love to see this work in progress. Pete

JCB pod lights bolted to bumper? or similar? you'd have to do both sides though.

Is it a defender or disco engine 200tdi? Part showing as RTC5682N 45A for std, or could use STC234 or RTC5680 65A units, for defender 11L. or if it's a disco engine RTC5681N for 12L. Not sure of differences maybe worth looking into

Put your location in your Profile Tom? some one may be able to pop round and have a look with you. Chances are you have something not quite back in the same place i.e may have an arm or washer on the wrong side. Or could be your replacement alternator has a slightly different casing or is not to spec causing the cracking when you try and close the gap (there shouldn't be any gaps ideally). You should have a long bolt as the pivot through two points (this should be packed with spacers inside the flanges so not to cause squashing effect on tightening up). This shouldnt do anything else than location so shouldn't be mega tight at all. The other shorter bolt should only act to stop rotation or spacing via a distance strap, with a sliding link action.

Should be 2 oil seals (inner and outer), one either side of the taper bearings, gave me 3 or four possible numbers when looking at my front axle as being an 85/86 axle it could be late series or early defender. Found out RTC3511? is the pretty universal seal off the RR classic which is a nice fit front and rear inside and outside now.

Should be going off the axle number, as it's the component which is the fixed standard. However i'd buy both types as they are a couple of quid then make a note of correct one in the front of your service book/haynes book of lies. (along with other useful numbers like the aux belt number, brake pads and calipers etc.

Yes the assembly is around £30-45 ish although a bearing is around £5-10. http://www.paddockspares.com/err4708r-alternator-belt-tensioner-non-genuine-300tdi.html?gclid=CO_1mN7Zss4CFVS4GwodOrQBzQ vid of bearing change

only matters for abs? however when i did my disc conversion i left the thicker meaty part of the stub axle underneath to give a better bearing land, with the flat on the top as best as i could.

Spares good to have at hand, at least 1 wheel bearing kit, and prop uj kit. length of diesel leakoff tubing, and a short length of brake pipe. (can be used for leakoff pipes or bleeding brakes) a selection of spare fluids along with a cheap 1/2" drive socket set and a 27mm spanner and a T55/1/2" socket. greasegun and LM grease, copperease spare aux belt in the vehicle, along with bulbs.

Aux belt (two types) one is 15mm longer if you have bigger diameter alt pulley. Aux tensioner is probably making the squeak noise, you can buy a new assembly if you pinpoint this bearing as faulty or there was a writeup on just changing the offending bearing with some diy butchery skills. Give it a spin without the belt on or feel if theres any play in it by twisting. Only other jobs for me would be to change the p gasket on the waterpump if it's fibre or leaky, and bin the plastic rad cap and thermostat cap and replace with metal items which take a socket

Theres another orange coglike symbol a bit further along for the pto? shaft drive. Got same on my mil 86. Must have been using old stock up on exmil contracts. try a torch behind the non-legend bulb holders edit: theres also a 24v light?

Lol, thanks. well due to the drive down there or good luck i had a miniscule amount of screen wash out of old pump. I tried MJA who open at 8 and were very helpful and could have me an express part by lunchtime. I then tried mm4x4 and they luckily opened at 0830 and had one in stock, which mean with warp drive enabled (downhill most of way) i managed to get there with a couple of minutes to spare with the new part ready to go on. The good news is it Passed = clean sheet. Not bad as she's 30 years old this year.

Tal yeah had considered taking it out and blasting it with wd40 or a jet of water and trying to spin up the impeller. But I'll probably lose 5L of screenwash once pump is pulled and knowing my luck break something else in the process

Don't have a rear wash wipe, did consider borrowing one from p38 but no sure way to see if it is same part. Hoping MJA have one in as they open at 8am, fingers crossed.

Any ideas for a fix? the voltage is getting to the washer pump and the interior lights are dimming slightly so it's taking current etc. Think the shaft is seized although it worked fine a week back. Where to buy in around Redditch who open at 8am? do Halfords keep them?

look like the antiburst type latches off military 1980's vintage, l/h muc1031

ooooo nice will keep an eye out

i'm interested in the ski rack brackets, 1 of each shape (one has horiz holes one has vertical). Bars not so important other than length would be nice to know.

have a look at these pics and see if you have anything like them, think tithonus may be slightly different to wolf hard top. red dots are the key parts hard to find.

no, but if you find out i'd like a set along with soft top door surrounds. I asked a nice chap on face book who does 101 bits about fabbing some up, but he needs some for patterns first.

The tank shouldn't need to be moved from a factory position, unless you are doing rally stages and need a smaller fireproof foam filled tank etc. On the transit di the accepted mod for airlocking injector prob was to run the injector spill return from the other end of the rail back to the filter.

don't mess about with lift pump, pull white wire off stop solenoid. Then open 10mm nut on filter and get a helper to crank it over till you get fuel out of the bleed nut. If you don't uou either have no fuel, a blockage or your lift pump is banjaxed.

Pictures....

Take it you have downloaded a copy of http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=97407 Chapter 2-1-23 has the info you may find of interest The bracket ERR5870 is the one i have, the glyn lewis one looks v.similar but uses an alt bracket strap for tensioning, which is lifting the alternator up. I'd be tempted to lock it off at it's lowest adjustment and see if the bonnet will close, then if possible get the air con idler and bracket to do the tensioning. Which should mean you could use standard belts in the field.

Yes picture is worth a thousand words.... . The nose of the alt looks tilted upwards and the alternator is raised up by the tensioner... Just off to see if i can find some pics to illustrate... idlers/tensioners http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=749004&SPRACHE=EN