pete3000

Also the big thick red cable from battery over outrigger to starter solenoid, could be chafing, especially if you've had any work done on BH or footwell.

If it does it after you have ign off, I'd look at the brown/purple feeds first. Batt side of fuses or unfused feeds. May be teaching you to suck eggs but have a look behind dash and console particulalry in centre of dash where wiring drops below the heater box to fusebox. Also headlight switch wiring is another suspect area going from live brown. Clock feeds behind speedo should be protected by fuse nut not always. Unplug rear loom section carrying the purple for the caravan socket. Glow plug timer relay on engine comp bulkhead? has brown live feed.

You haven't got any rad fans or similar that can run after shut off?

get a jump lead from batt earth to the engine block or lifting eye. This will prove the bad earth in the shortest time.

Looks like a handbrake lock with a pin to stop the handbrake dropping forward when pushed in.

I've now got 2 of tayna's exv90 batteries with 4yr warranty and bolt/clamp terminals. They fit in my 110 battery box. I bought them as a direct replacement for the numax xv24mf's i had before. No complaints at all.

It's a well known fact that the water 20l cans don't allow the doors to close, but the diesel ones should (just about). It helps a bit if you don't fill them right up and squich them a bit to get the belly in a bit. I ditched the flat locker doors and got some wolf items to rivet on which gives a nicer closing action/fit.

Not sure if treebloke is still on here? seem to remember him offering free wood to collector or donation to forum funds, might be worth a pm or a trawl through the for sale section?

Indeed, i was only having a jest. As an aside though I often use my worst (best) stanley socket set to hammer onto corroded bolt heads of the opposite scheme to get them out. i.e not the next mm size down just find a close A/F match. Before next trying the mole grips, chisels, grinder then the drill.

Push a socket on, if the metric one is a tight fit, it's metric. If the imperial one is a tight fit it's imperial, , Coat----->Door. The 12 point is most probably Metric. Or more seriously if you find the cat no stamped on the hub swivel pin assembly the caliper bolts up to would the part no give it away i.e RTC (metric) ESR or just a number (imperial). Then find the matching bolt. or am i off track? BTW from a quick search ABS equipped seem to be metric and non ABS use a mix.

And is cheaper for low use sds, else you'll be paying out for the body then £60 for a battery and £40-50 for a charger etc. £40 will get you a cheapo sds when they are in the discounters i.e aldi, lidl, etc.

Without borrowing or buying a proper sds drill, it's "like using britpart wheel bearings". You wont believe it till you've used one.

like reb says sds all the way, it's night and day rather then faffing about with drill drivers with a hammer function. The sparks could be flint or more unlucky if you've found a bit of rebar. rebar does a good job of bending sds drills.

i had the same on my 300tdi. mine just needed a crimp and a clean on the sender stud. The earth had already let me down, see tech archive how to spot a bad earth.

Its the serial No field your'e probably interested in, SALLDHAC etc M= 1995. If this ties in with the Chassis number (similar format) then all is good. http://www.expeditiongear.co.za/cu5/Decoding-your-Land-Rover-VIN-Number.aspx

Chassis number and Vin tag on the seatbox.

Yes Yes Yes, with loads of pictures, everyone likes pictures. More threads the merrier as it is Christmas and the (Threads) Tree is looking a bit bare recently

small splodge of hylomar instant gasket once you've taken the burr off?

No ideas what ours were when they were replaced, got them from car spares distribution, think ngk or delphi ring a bell. about £28 set did the leakoff tubing at the same time and replaced the rubber tubing to the air plenum, after the 2009/10 cold weather caused cranking and smoke but no start. Pete

Polycarb isn't very user friendly for bending/moulding. Perspex or one of it's derivatives could be easier to work with. It would need to be thin enough to mould but thick enough to stand upto the job asked of it 2-3 mm? Thinking back to my school days vacuum moulding is possible if you can make a mould and heat the material to be stretched over the mould. Liteglaze is a glazing sheet sold in diy stores for greehouse/shed window replacement that can be cut with a saw and bent within one axis, if this could be used for straighter smaller pieces.

Don't discount an inverter split aircon unit, these have several advantages, they can cool, heat, dehumidify and act as a fan. So for example using as a heater would be more energy efficient than say the same rated convector/radiant heater.

I used to have one of those valves, it erm fell off...... Worked out it would tell you after the event that the pressure was gone in one or either circuit, which i could work out for myself if i was ever pointing the wrong way or travelling through a hedge, gone for the float cap now.

The most useful site i found was allbrit.de, their exploded parts catalogue is really useful if you're trying to replace/order parts

There is a few with the tdv6 so maybe of some use as a teardown guide

I'm sure i have seen more info just trying to remember where.... For starters https://www.bodylogicuk.com/index.php/10/327175/