pete3000

Wolf soft top wont fit a normal set of sticks correctly. It will hang down lower on tub and sag around door tops. This is because the wolf roll cage system is higher than a standard 110/90 stick set. Pete

If you are going continental. Dont forget the legal stuff required for each country. e.g 1.Beam benders/yellow filters (for headlights) 2. Hi vis jackets 3 warning triangle and/or road flares. essentials. 1.foot pump or compressor-tyre press gauge. 2.water 2 or 5l bottles or jerrycan. For you if you have broken down, or the landy if cooling needs topping off. carrying a couple of 5l bottles wont be bad, but carrying a jerrycan for a couple of miles will stretch the arms. 3. first aid kit. 4. tarp or groundsheet. throw down to work under landy (helps to find bits you drop) can work as a sun shade if you need it. 5. hat and glasses. 6. roadmaps 7. ehic card (european health insurance card) 8. colour copies of your documents (kept seperate from your real ones. 9. can of tyre weld 10. jump leads 11. medium duty tow rope. 12. a phone that works in europe. + charger 13. tell your credit card company where/when you are going, or they may decline your purchases. hth Pete

pm sent

yes "open and make sure immob is disengaged" before disconnecting the negative from the battery. I always take the negative off first due to the fact if you come into contact with bodywork there won't be a mild panic as the spanner sticks.

best ask the rangey rover boys, in the range rover section. My personal guesses would be the tailgate if it is in decent condition. closely followed by the air suspension bits, airbags and any other expensive hard to find serviceable bits. If you can't use em then sell them on for something you want. List of easy to remove bits....... Doors, tailgate, bonnet, electrics, seats, wheel/tyre swap, spare wheel, towbar, auxiliary bits, winches, spotlights etc etc.

Si, do you mean the LT230? the LT77 isn't fitted to a TD5 (R380), the drive comes out back of tranfer case blanking? Pete

Got mine from Foley SV a good while back, they are almost wolf like but not quite identical. 1 antiluce fixing (lockable), full length hinge towards front of vehicle. black with fixings and fitting sketch, from memory £350-400 pair. The do hold two water jerry cans properly though (i,e not empty ones). Rubber gasket seal around the doors. rivets and bolts. I added some of my own bracketry for extra piece of mind. Pete

Fridge will do it for you 1)stop solenoid is white with push on spade. Goes on back of FIP 2)brown with yellow trace for alternator field small push on. Not W terminal (tacho) 3)starter solienoid: white with red trace from starter relay. 4)bluey greeny wire is for engine temp sensor bullet connector. Big thick red/brown wires are battery Earth strap Dont think there are any other complicated wires on 300tdi non-egr. Thats the way ah..ha..ah..ha I like it....... Pete

FAIL. Most Amateur antennas or components of are made from Aluminium, Copper Stainless, Silver, Gold. The giveaway as Errol says is the metal part. It doesn't even have to be a continuous sheet (i.e a roof) A discone or web is plenty. So if you have a grp roof 4,6,8 or 12 radials will suffice if they are at least a 1/4 wl. Pete

post up your rough location in your profile, some kind soul witha meter and some knowledge of electrickery may be able to come and have a butchers

I've moaned about this before...... It's not just the back of the contacts that break off, the spring contact inside fell off on two of mine (thought the bulb had packed in) soldered a ball of copper wire back in place, no more probs yet. VWP connectors are the way to go as they offer some waterproofing at the same time. The 2 way for side/fog/rev and indicator. The 3 way for side/stop/tail.

Ring do an amplified fm rod type antenna thingy which works brill in mine. Sticky mount on dash top or window. As for CB antenna, screw the top of it off when you are not using it. (Removable mount needed) Or to avoid distractions why not stick it up on the roof or at the back of the hardtop so you can't see it flopping about

bout 5000rpm, in most gears speed depends on your main gearing, transfer gearing, diff ratio, wheel size, wind direction and what tune you have on the radio

I'd go military on this one. Get an ffr box out of an ex-mil defender. Get 2 or four batteries in securely. Plus you will get the battery trays framework and clamps and vents to vent the hydrogen outside. You can bin the radio table off the top. Your underseat box has vents built in. If you lob the batteries in the back you may end up with a mess unless you can guarantee no spils or venting with some sealed spiral wrapped optimas/exides or similar. These will come in a lot smaller and should fit into a large ammo tin. Pete

Sorry to hear mate, I'll keep em peeled north of B'sgrove, for you. Have you tried the local dumping areas. Will send PM. Pete

The park switch on defenders is in the wiper motor housing dash panel LHS on RHD rovers vice versa for LHD(unless they have changed the design radically). Microswitch/cam affair behind the wormdrive gear. Switch will supply power back to motor regardless of stalk switch unless it returns to park position. If it's a TD5 check your intermittent wipe controller/relay also. What is the fault exactly? going and not stopping or stopped and not going? Pete

I think the rare egg was a reference to the disco, I am sure there are plenty of newcomers or vistors reading this. I can take a light hearted look at life and criticism. The essence is being able to give and take a joke or certain amount of criticism without having a sense of humour failure. If you read through this forum or any other you will find various examples of ebay/youtube references to other peoples fails and mistakes. It is all part of human nature. If no-one pointed out your mistakes would you ever learn to do anything differently? As someone said "if you dont like pork don't eat a pig" or bacon crisps, scratchings, sausages, chops, gammon.....

I won't be listing decent stuff on there then, they changed the rule regarding P+P a while ago so you couldn't charge P+P on computer accesories and other item categories. They have as much as 10% off you if you have a buy it now or a fair reserve price.

One more idea to add to the list, if it's flush grind a thick slot in with a dremmel wheel then use an flat blade bit in an impact screwdriver to shake it loose. I used my impact driver to rid me of the door hinge screws which were seized in the door pillars. Cost about £15 from screwfix. Used a few times on stuck rusted screws. Pete

Nope. relying on the coax for an earth will electrically just add the length of the coax to the base of the whip element until it gets back to the radio. Then the swr will feedback into the set and cause all sorts of nasties. It needs to be earthed to the roll cage (preferably) or some other ground plane/large metal plate (roof etc) as close as possible to the whip base. Pete

Is that a bit the same as cash only, no paypal. Then at the top, payments accepted ------paypal------

Yes please for me also. Keep up the good work. Pete

And quite rightly got the negs where the batt box cover slides on. I did mine this way so if the cover touches it can't short out. It's still a bit tight on the rear battery though, I put a plastic strip on the batt box plate to supplement the terminal cover. And a strip of high density foam between the batts to stop them rubbing. Pete

build a simple heat exchanger out of microbore 8mm copper central heating tube wrapped a few times around the exhaust manifold. solder the turns to keep tight and over wrap with exhaust wrap. Add push fit connectors and voila. A non-return valve before the make shift heater would keep an amount of warm washer fluid on-tap sorry! good idea? if so i'll ave the royalties for dragons den etc... Pete

spafax unbreakable mirrors. a-la land rover wolf. can't remember the p/n off hand. Got some on my 110. Much better than originals. Plus you can twist them through 90 degrees if needs must to give a panoramic view. x-eng, mm4x4, lr-series, Pete