pete3000

rover alarms/immobs have a reputation for battery draining. The old two button jobbers like the metro 200,400,800 etc. Not sure if these were used by LR but may be worth investigation. Once they go duff they can flatten a battery in three days.

cat litter for the soaking up action (fullers earth). Then some nice biological washing powder and a scrubbing brush. Choose your own fragrance. Of course you know know you should have painted the floor first.

see if there is a yahoo group or similar. I have a manual for boxford 3 but not for Harrison http://www.lathes.co.uk/harrison/page6.html see above for general info. link to purchase manual is in there, not sure if that's what you were asking? Couple of useful googles for you, for tooling etc. Arceurotrade in Leics. RDG tools Chronos tools. Pete

sent some dorrars, will send some more after xmas

Chop it up, weigh it in.

Not really, as led's should last much longer, switch on quicker, be more shock resistant and run cooler than filament bulbs . If you do the unit wiring right they should be sealed against mud/water, they don't however like dirty power supplies i.e unregulated noisy supplies.

Les, I bought a Sealey SA22503 from e-bay as a refurbished unit. I picked it out as it has a high output, 12cfm for the size of 50L. It will run off a 13A plug and is fairly quiet.... ish. It will keep up with most air tool tasks. It outperforms my cheapo second hand draper 8cfm hands down. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a 50l but with a higher cfm as the air buffer is adequate for small tasks. I couldn't accomadate a larger tank either, the direct drive pump does get warm with extended use. If you can afford it though or need it for higher duty cycle go for a belt drive. I run, air die grinder, air needle scaler, air saw, impact wrenches, inflator, blow off guns, chisels.

ultraleds sell them, ballast resistors, 1 per bulb, may work with less. http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/loada-solution-bulb-warning-turn-larger-bulbs-p-1213.html Pete

No you can only discharge a car battery to 55-60% before you have issues with it recharging properly. There are graphs about somewhere, but for arguments sake 11.2 v is probably as low as you want to go. It all depends on how flat your battery is after a certain time with a constant load. Even deep cycle batteries only do the full deep cycle bit 50-60 times before they are scrapped.

I have some similar from the mighty bay. I did a measure using the amps range on my fluke. Seem to remember 250mA was about right. 4 of them in the back of the 110 (2 each side) uplighting in the roof gutter uses 1 amp. Pete

Mine works but takes 50yds or so after moving off to illuminate. Same when disengaging 50yds then off. Wondering if there is a pawl or dog which has to drop in before the selection is valid.

Don't think you have to drop anything out, from memory. Drain LT230 Remove cover plate (6 bolts) Remove philips screw/s + pull outer bearing race. Remove old gear. insert new + replace bearing with diferent shims if necessary. Re fit cover plate Fill box back up.

Just drill a bigger hole to let it out.

Cough! RR rear window wiper motor........relays.......cam.....limit switches how much are they?

Same ones for half the price? http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht270-3-pce-gear-puller-set Pete

Yes turn the idle down a bit, idle figures should be in the haynes/service book. Set it when cold though as it will be lower on cold start. May not start well in cold weather if you set it when engine is hot.

depends on your patience/spare time and how long you can manage without the truck. I personally would get a new alternator especially if its been waded/mudded. It wont only be the one bearing on its way out. Rule no.1 no job is a "simple" job.

Well done. Don't forget the other side, While your there don't underestimate the knuckle bruising potential fun of changing the bushes in the hockey sticks.

one of these alternators should sort you out http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/6kva-3000rpm-alternator-1-phase/path/alternators just add a large step down transformer to 14/28 volts a pulley and voila I suspect that wasn't really the question you were asking though?

I was wrong, i should have read it was a td5, with new fangled earthing. Changed from my 87 110. It Seems a bit over optomistic to send that much to a panel earth? with the whole galvanic steel/alu corrosion thing going on. Pete

nice work, dosen't look in too bad a nick.

best of luck with that. I can just about push mine on grass, let alone up-end it to slide it into a sprinter. Unloading it will be easier though. Just leave the eye at the back of the van, attach to large tree and drive off I'd seriously find a friend with a nato hitch to collect it for you. Or risk a substantial injury/panel damage to sprinter. Otherwise break it into bits, tub will detach on 5 or 6 rusted j bolts, and wheels/axles will come off Just my tuppence. Pete

There isn't a common earth as luke has said, it's to each wing seperately. Points to a body or engine earth fault where a single path is used if it flickers both sets together. Don't spose you hung your head out the back to see if tail lights were doing it as well. Pete

Why not rig up a suds pump to wash away the chips, use a cheapo pump (pond pump etc) and a bucket for brewing/filter/pipework. This will cool your cutter as well as wash the chips away for collection and prevent a fire It will also stop you setting a cheap vac on fire with hot swarf and shavings RDG tools (google) and a homebrew/aquatics shop should carry all the bits you need. p.s homebrew/aquatics for those who like to drink like a fish.

Weapons Mounted Installation Kit, IIRC No doubt someone will be along shortly.......