Mark

I had a cheapo solar powered one from eBlag - it worked perfectly and did the job fine. However, after reading comments, and some idle eBay browsing I found a brand new speedglas 9002X (X=wider screen) for £125 and bought it - I have been really pleased with it. If you can spend the time hunting/waiting for an eBlag bargain, It is well worth the cash to get the speedglas. Mark

Not considered it just yet. We will see what happens - they haven't made it onto the truck yet, so we will do the first round of the challenger series and see how we get on...

Bob, I think most of Marko's posts were on the LRE forum rather than this one... Not sure if those have been archived anywhere, but it is now the landroveraddict forum. I'd stick around here for tech tho... Cheers Mark

All the wheels have now been drilled in the position above and had the beadlocks fitted to them. Separate valves are not required with the current design as the tyre valve is also supplied with the beadlock kit. The stauns are not as bad as I was expecting them to be to fit - def. a 2 man job though. Valves are protected by rings weleded to the rim - not exactly pretty but certainly functional. No pics I am afraid as Mr Orange took them away with him!

Why wouldn't you reckomend the stauns for challenge use rob? is it just the vulnerability of the valves, or something else? Mark

Cheers. I was always very pleased with just how tucked in ended up. Sadly the truck is no more, at least not in that guise.

Divine guidance? Looks like a neat job. looking forward to seeing it fitted to the truck. Mark

staun reckon 6 - 8 inches from the tyre valve. Balance would be nice, but it probably makes little difference...

Have a look in the tech archive - there are links to download the LR RAVE manulas which should include D2.

This is the second battery installed in my 1996 discovery. It uses exactly the same clamping mechanism as the factory one just mirrored - J shaped bots and a bar across the corner of the battery. hope that helps Mark

Right, thought a digram might help... This is a cross section of the rim. I have put my hole at position 1, same as the tyre valve. The instructions say ideally position 2 (problem with too much metal) or 3 - both inaccessable really. Can anyone see any problems with this position? ta Mark

Morning all, Have been modifying a set of 8" Modulars to take Staun internal beadlocks. To do this you need to drill a hole in the rim for the beadlock valve to come through, and the positioning of this is quite important according to the staun instructions. Following the instructions in the same way as thier video also suggests puts the valve inside the central disc of the wheel, which isn't ideal for either accesability or clearence on brake calipers etc. I have gone with positioning the staun valve in the vertical section of the rim, exactly the same plane as the tyre valve sits. Does anyone see any problem with position? As far as I can tell it fits the criteria set out by staun, and shouldn't distort the inner tube too much, but it seems contrary to thier instructions for some reason. If this makes sense to anyone, and they have an idea, pls let me know. ta (sorry, no pictures as I forgot to take my camera... )

I would be inclined to have your current one pressure tested to see if the cracks that you have identified make any difference to the operation of the head. I would be more concerned about the carbon trace between no2 and the water way. It looks like the fire ring has not held up but the next seal has not been breeched. Mark

I think the motor on this is far less than 2 horse power though les (1.5kW)..

Martin, Looks like a tidy modifcation. My paranoid side has a little concern about your intended wiring plan... You don't mention either relays or fuses... with 55W at 12V you will be drawing just under 5A. I don't know what the factory switches are rated for, but I would still be inclined to use a relay on the main live. Pulling the lamp power from the clock is def not a good idea tho! Can I also assume there is a fuse in the supply line, nice and close to the battery? 'scuse the paranoya, I don't want to teach you to suck eggs, but I would have to see your truck go up in flames as a result... Mark

Current major hurdles include the bulkhead and tunnel - the bulkhead will need to be chopped out, and recessed a good 6 inches or so to clear the back of the engine. Mounts on the chassis will be the next issue, but that is easier to get around... As I have said before, I am going somewhat slowly, but currently I have a freelander sitting above the disco chassis while I figure out what needs to be done to make them meet.... I will start a proper build thread at some point when I have something worth showing! Cheers Mark

Looks a bit like a BFG Trac-edge?

The pull out tube is designed as a filter and funnel to allow filling from jerry cans. Personally I just take the tube out to fill from the pump - It should come out by pulling up rotating 1/8th of a turn or so (sma position as locking in the up position) and then pulling up again. Maybe it's just me that does that? Mark

sounds an awful lot like clutch slip to me - why have you ruled that out steve? Is your TD5 remapped in anyway? Mark

I wouldn't put it past him...

I welded a plug into mine, and tapped it to take a hose fitting. This is then piped to a small tap under the bonnet. In normal operation the tap is open, and allows any water to run out. When out playing the tap is closed, sealing the airbox up again. hth Mark

Mike (superpants) and i will be there along with simonr. come and say hi...

Can't help or contribute to the concrete tech, but still... nice shed. Would love to have that much space.

care to elaoborate Will? pm is fine if you don't want to get into discussion...

Particulalry if they happen to be a moderator ....