Mark

Nigel, get onto the A24, and come off it at capel. it is signed from within the village.

Dan, yeah the tunnel and the bulkhead look to need some fairly major modification, but I don't think that is insurmountable. Not seen the guy on eBay, but was talking to a guy who advertises as 'freelanderbreaker' who was very helpful. A rolling shell would be good though from a practicality point of view while I was building things up...

You may be thinking of Delgragh on the medway city estate. Alternatley there is Bearmach in maidstone or island 4x4 on the isle of sheppey... Gigglepin are over tonbridge way. Delgragh can be a bit of a mixed bag, but are generally quite good. hth Mark

As several people have spotted, getting to the battery does involve taking the seat out... Have co-driven for Orange in his truck, I don't think I would want anything quite so buckety, and his cobras are nothing like as deep at the sides as Walfy's! It's personal choice in the end though. Supportive seats are brilliant, but if you do something that involves getting in and out a lot (being a winch bitch for example) you will soon grow tired of them - I know I did. Having said that, I have every intention of fitting 'sports' seats to my next project, but I will find some with shallow sides... just my 2p Mark

I remember seeing that some years ago at billing. Do you have an more details of it? Had a bit of a measure up between the freelander and the discovery this evening. The shell should sit on the chassis really well, but the engine bay on the freelander is exceedingly short compared to the discovery. I had thought about moving the engine back in the chassis, but that is not going to be possible.... ta Mark

Personally, I would be looking from something over 20A. My light bar has 4x55W lamps on, which means it draws 220W/12V = ~20A on it's own. This means the alternator will be attempting to charge the battery at this rate too, and so that is what the split charge relay is carrying. In real terms, a split charge relay is just that, a relay. 70A relays are reasonably easy to come by, and would be a much safer option than a bog standard 20A relay. If you are planning to run some cigarette lighter sockets off the battery, you need to have it rated for the maximum you can plug into it. Realistically, you may want to plug an inverter or an electric cool box (or possibly both) so a 70A relay does not seem as much overkill as it seems. The 180A x-eng one is probably overkill for essentially accessory power, but the kit of cables and instructions makes it a good and easy solution - it also means if you do ever add a winch, you will be ready to rock... hth Mark

The two big fat cables you can see on top of the battery run to my front winch. It is also the power source for my front light bar as well, but it wasn't wired in when those pictures were taken. It is very useful to be able to jumpstart the vehicle off the second battery as well, just using one jumplead to connect the positive posts together. The Split charge is an x-eng item btw. enjoy Mark

I like the look of the replacement battery tray - looks really neat, and should be fairly easy to achieve... I have a twin battery setup on my 200 TDI disco 1: This is pretty easy to do on a 200, as there is nothing in this space bar the Jack and the Wheel chock. On a 300 however, this space is occupied by the air intake, into the airbox, the jack, and wheelchock, and the vacuum solenoid for the EGR valve if fitted, along with a few other bits and pieces... hth Mark

I don't doubt it is worth the spend, I just can't justify the spending... Anyone got a dead petrol 3 door freelander they want disposing of then?

Mr Orange's D2 leaks a the top of the rear door - it doesn't quite reach the rubber, and he ends up with a pool on top of the roller boot cover.... not sure how that could end up in the headlining, bt it could be a good place to check? Mark

Not as far as I can tell.... from 4wdonline looks the perfect length to me...

The history behind this is that my whit 200 TDI disco has pretty much come to the end if it's life as the rust in the bodywork is just too far gone. Given that 90's are just too expensive for me at the moment, I am trying to find a way to utilise the discovery to make a usable, and road legal off roader. My Mrs has a 3 door freelander, which I really quite like the look of - nb, this would not be the donor! Baring the SVA issues (am hoping it would be seen as a simple re-body, but that is not what this thread is about) can anyone see any huge issues with mounting a 3 door freelander shell onto a 200 TDI discovery chassis? I know that D-landers are available, and probably give a much lighter solution to than a full shell, but again that is kinda spendy for the kit... Main issues I can see you be around transmission tunnels - disco engine is mounted longditudinally, and the floda is transverse. I would likley move the engine mounts back anyway, for better weight distribution, but that's probably getting ahead of myself... Anyone else have any views/opinions/pictures of where someone else has done it? Cheers Mark

B&Q do 1m lengths of mild steel tube. I would have thought they would do something suitable...

If you want the bushes to remain intact, then some kind of pushing tool is you only option - a press of some description (hydraulic, or screwthread based) or a close fitting dolly and a big hammer. If your home brew threaded stud tool is working, then it might be worth persevering with that - however, you need to look at the studding you are using. If it is a length of B&Q 'allthread' type studding then it is not really rated to any real tensile strength. It would be worth trying to source a length of high tensile studding (or even a really long bolt, which you know the rating for) and giving that a go. A proper fixings place should be able to source it. Would M12 fit? I can't remember what size the holes are in series bushes... hth Mark

you would think that wouldn't you? my 1996 disco has one M8 and one 1/4WW on the batter terminals

Don't forget that even on modern land rovers there is a mixture of metric, UNF, and even the occasional BSF none of which will mate with each other... A good stock of M6 x 20 through 60, M8 x 20 though to 80 and M10 x 30 through 100 will stand you in goos stead. 1/4 and 5/15 UNF are good to have in stock too... hth Mark

Does anyone have any recomnedations for Tom Tom like street navigation software that runs on a PC? I have Tom tom on my Ipaq, and I want something similar on my laptop? Also any good sources of where to get it? Thanks Mark

I'll check mine, but I thought it was 120A... I might of course be talking arse, and it is a 100A unit. Either way it's a good upgrade on the 65A or 45A units in consideration...

Chadler, if you can fit the 300 alternator, then I would go down that route - ie use the ring terminals and 300 loom. if you end up trying to fit the 300 loom to the 200 alternator, then the multiplug is available from VWP or autosparks I belive, and you can just use the single wire in the 300 loom in place of the pair. I hope that makes sense? If you are planning to run an electric winch, it might be worth looking at upgrading to a higher output still - a 300 tdi discovery with aircon has a 120A alternator. You will need to upgrade the charging cable though, maybe doubling up as per the 200 loom. I am running a 120A on my 200 disco. hth Mark

Awesome pictures. really good to see leafers being used properly

Nope, thats pretty much it...

You need a hub nut spanner. Not sure exact size, but if you ask any local LR specialist they will have them for not much money - Premier supply in Guildford, Dunsfold Land Rover in Dunsfold(!), Inside out at capel might even have them on the shelf.... cr/p/addocks have them if you want to go mail order: Hub Nut Spanner hth Mark

I think it was either Si, or Ashcrofts or a collaboration between them...

Both my 200 and my 300 have soundproofing - the 200 stuff seems to be fine, but the 300 is in a similar, if not quite so advanced state of disintegration as you describe... I don't suppose you have a part number for the mercedes replacement piece do you? Cheers Mark

Well, the lift kit is OME and was very good on the 200, but you still noticed the roll a lot more than the 300 with the ARB's. I may yet take them off, but as massive articulation is not what I am after, I will likely knock some spacers up and give them a try. Not sure I like the idea of the ARB ending up twisted as seems to be being described by a couple of people.. ta Mark