Mark

I would give the dealer a try to be honest. Otherwise try LR fasteners - no website, google will give you his contact details or Woolies

We ran our lightweight on LPG alone for several years, and never had any problems. All the petrol stuff was still there, and I used it onece when I couldn't get gas on the way home, and that was fine too. Started and ran fine on gas, although it did have the unleaded head already.

The 200TDI one is a fibreglass think with a fabric covering. They are a one piece affair, and do not suffer from sagging. AFAIK the are only available in a light grey colour though... Mark

isn't that the engine that marcocosic stuck in his SIII (on the old site)? it might be worth seeing if he is still around on any of the forums to pick his brain? I think more than 1.8 would be more then sensible given the slightly gutless nature of them? Mark

That's a lot like mine...

How we did it in case anyone was interested.....

precisely... If I had read the posts about advertising commercial events, and made the appropriate contributions or concessions, and someone hijacked my thread, I would be quite upset... oh....

I have several sets on the 'A4' sized office drawers which can be picked up for sensible money - or free off the freecycle site if you are patient... They don't have especially good runners, so you can't load them up with cutters and the like, but they are excellent otherwise. hth Mark

'scuse me mr moderator... Mark

strangely, that was my first reaction too....

You are all mean.... Vented, but not grooved or drilled, and therfore solid(ish)... :P

Lockheed vented Solids would seem to be the way to go to me...

For pure off road use, I would avoid drilled or grooved pads, and go for solids... The grooves and the holes all hold mud and carp, which acts like grinding paste which wears the pads down a lot quicker. just my 2p..

It's a bit further round the M25, but AJS Tyres at Reigate are worth a call. Andy keeps BFG's and Coopers on the shelf, so should be able to sort you out. they are litterally 2 minutes off the M25 at J8 (I think..)

I have the recovery point that fits on the southdown guard, but the nator hitch is better IMHO. Only disadvantage ot the NATO is the reduced departure angle, but it seems to stand up to plenty of abuse! The Dixon Bate adjustable hitch is not standard - I had to weld a new cross piece in to get it to line up with the holes in the southdown tow plate. I do tow, on a number of different trailers, and an number of different types of hitch. Also as my truck has quite a lot of lift, the extra drop the adjustable hitch gives is essential. If you don't tow, then the southdown guard is well worth the money anyway. Cheers Mark

I think I am using the bolts that came with the bumper for the tank guard as well. You need to remove the bumper, as getting the bolts into the bracket involves some wiggleing of the bracket which wouldn't be possible with the bumper in place. here's a picture - not sure if ot helps at all though...

Just had mine off - both the guard and the bumper, and I think you really need to have the bumper off too. sorry.

Paul, AFAIK the 200 heater fan is the same as Maestro and Montego ones, and is somewhat hard to find a good one - certainly new ones are NLA. Pretty sure it's not the same as a 300 though. Mark

Having tried to find A-post repair sections, we ended up making some out of plate on Orange's Rangie. Have to admit we didn't try Rimmers tho... They were made with a bench vice and a grinder mostly, so nothing complicated...

That's cool. Where did you find them?

The tilt mechanism is in the base, so the seats themselves should be interchangeable...

that's somewhat enthusiastic Rob ... looking forward to the build thread!

At the rear, you are talking trailing arms, and the castor correction only really applies to the front... However, you have a couple of options - Cranked Trailing arms will relieve the angle at the chassis end, meaning the bush has a much easier time, and also means the range of movement is not limited by the bush. I have these: Another option is the x-eng x-flex system which replaces the standard bushes with High movement ball joints. Incidentally, knackered bushes give more movement than good ones at the expense of road handling and comfort... As a rule, you get one or the other hth Mark

Been there too on the welding front... <rolleyes> Is the kit you have fitted a generic RR/Disco one? I have found the the Disco is actually heavier at the back end that than a rangie, so the springs will sit lower... I have rangie 2" lift springs on the back of mine, and 2" spacers to level the body up... hth Mark

Have you looked at the likes of Rhino Liner? from my research a while ago they were expensive and could only be applied by the retailer, but give you a smooth surface (rather than a grippy one) which would seem better for loading stuff in and out. There were only one or two people in the UK doing it, so getting it done near you could be a challenge...