Mark

Mr. Orgasmic's suggestion was what I started considering - mounting the switch that I have under the bonnet and running a bowden cable (ie a choke or bonnet release cable) to the switch. The only issue with the switch is that when you turn the switch off, the key comes out so you would have to go digging under the bonnet to reset. The anderson connectors I like a lot, and have used them for other things, but I can't reach from within the car. The entirety of the electrics for my winch are contained in a small area (see pic) giving me nice short cable runs. Any other suggestions most welcome though...

Been Thinking about trying to fit an isolator switch to the winch, since I don't have one at the moment... Given that I am in a Disco, I don't have any nice convienient panels on the front of the car to mount a switch on that would be accessable while the winch was in use. I also don't have the Winch battery under the seat, so running the main winch power back into the cab, just so an isolator switch can be fitted dosn't seem like a worthwhile exercise either. Which leaves me with a couple of options: i) Fit an conventional isolator switch somewhere inaccessable, and run a bowden cable back into the vehicle to operate it. ii) Find a big relay that can be operated by a switch in the vehicle. Is the relay permitted by ARC rules and regs and the like??? Cheers Mark

April 13th?? linky says May13th which makes more sense...

Roland at ACR fitted a V6 freelander lump into an 88" - It was in one of the mags, but I threw mine out recently so can't go and have a look sorry... He put D2 axles on it to for some reason too.

Nope. So long as you still have at least two mirrors (which are often bolted to the doors).

I have now established that the one we have is indeed just two allen headed screws.... after quite some time being confused as to why the prodding method wasn't working all sorted now though.

I would probably go with a jigsaw with a new metal cutting blade for that. Cut it a bit undersize and clean it up with a file... Mark

I'm running a TDI, and have never had any overheating issues with it. It also blocks a lot of the mud and carp that can get into the rad and cause problems. Cheers Mark

cool, ta.

quick question: do you need special keys to remove the radio on a freelander, or can it be done without? anyone know? Cheers Mark

I have an 8074 on my disco, but it is basically the same: The bumper came from eBay, but is made by $corpion racing. Whilst I have a very low opinion of scorpion generally, the bumper I have is pretty good. It is not the one for the 8274 however, and I had to modify it to get it to fit. The winch is also a very tight squeeze in there - there is very little room between the radiator and the back of the winch, and I had to slightly modify the bonnet release mechanism to get clearence at the top. To be fair, using the right bumper in the first place may well mean you don't have to do the modifications I did, but I wanted the winch to to as tucked in and out of the way as possible: I am running very soft springs, and the front is still pretty high. I don't think standard ones would stand up to the weight of the bumper and the winch though. Hope that helps Cheers Mark

That sounds eminently reasonable...

My belleview winch still has a band brake: admiteddly, the band is missing, but they are supposed to be very effective.

Nige, Could I also ask about Side Exit Exhausts? Are they permitted? ta Mark

I am afraid to say it, but, 'yeah, they do that....' It is possible to fit spring isolation rings to correct the lean. I am afraid I don't have the part number to hand, but they are essentially 3/4" thick rubber rings which are fitted onto the spring seats, thus lengthening the spring (effectively).

Another vote for 3-pin XLR's here. I like the permanent and switched live. They can be had in 2-pin form if required... Here the panel I made up for the lightweight: The socket in the middle is a standard fag lighter socket, but it came from a caravan place, so has a degree of waterproofness. I tend to always use Neutrik XLR's too, rather than some of the cheaper ones, and have never had a problem.

I found some pictures on eBlag of the same one I have, but with the tow-bar bracket - essentially it is a u shaped section with two tubes welded either side to take the bottom of the cycle rack: I am missing the tow bar bracketty bit, so i guess I will be fabbing one up then... Cheers Mark

Steve, that would be great ta. I have no idea what vintage it is, but I can take a pic if required? ta Mark

Got the promo from maplins land in my inbox today. They are listing midland 80 ch CB's at £60 each which I didn't think was too bad... Midland 78 Plus 80 Channel CB Transceiver free shipping too. nothing to do with me etc, just thought someone might be after a cb? Cheers Mark

If I could find one, that would be superb... you don't have one lying around do you???

Agreed, I thought the punches were well laid out, and gave those of us who arn't hardcore challenge competitors a good challenge, without being completely impossible. Are they all the results or just those completed/handed in? I am sure more trucks were doing punches than that? Anyway, I thought 26 was a respectable number for a lardy disco on not very huge tyres... Ta Mark

I have used a knot called the Truckers Hitch which gives you a way of tensioning the rope once you have threaded it over and round everything... mostly the seem to use ratchet straps these days tho... Mark

Military SIII's were the same inside as civvy ones. Someone appears to have gone to a lot of trouble to fit that into there... Other ways to check your motor would be to look at the rear cross member on chassis - if it has square ends then it is ex-mil, otherwise if it tapers up towards the ends, then it is most likely civvy. The other obvious bits are the light fittings, but if someone has gone to that much effort to change the dash, it is quite possible the light fittings have been changed too... Mark

Just out of curiosity... any word on the punch challenge results?

I have a aquired a genuine bike rack for the back of the freelander... unfortunatley it doesn't have the towbar mounting bracket with it. Does anyone have a picture of the bracket fitted or of the entire bike racke fitted to a car? ta Mark