Mark

But will they fit Deano's granny??? we must be told! Dew110csw?

It is worth checking the planning regs, but most 'free standing temporary structures' do not need planning permission. Something that is permanently attached to the ground will however need permission. Bolts into a concrete pad do not count as permanent. As I said though, check the local regs on the council website... Mark

Building something worth using is going to take more than a weekend! I would go with the gazeebo/marquee route for the moment, and build a proper building once the truck is working... On the shed front, I would personally build the frame out of wood cos it's easy to work with, and cheap (ish) if you get it from the right place. 2"x"2 frame, and some kind of trussed roof would be the way I would go with some diagonals. If you are going to use ply for the panelling, this can be used as part of the strength of the structure and will provide most of the diagonal bracing you need. If you are going to use corrugated tin, or similar for the outside, the frame will need to be rather more sunstantial, as you get no real structural value from the sheets. Don't underestimate the cost of wood either. Unless you have a good source of cheap or free wood it is gonna be fairly spendy for a building that size... As another idea for a quick temporary but a bit more sunstantial structure, why not build the frame out of scaffold, and clamp your existing panels to the frame? I think I think about sheds too much... Mark

yep, there are some rubber bands, some gaffa tape and a few cable ties involved... definitely more structural! Mark

Hello chap, I am 27, and my ncb dosn't matter as it's a second car. I have a reasonably modified disco (see my sig) and a policy that limits me to 6000 miles per anumn. For that I pay about £350 to Adrian Flux for Fully comp cover with all the major mods declared. I realise you will probably need a few more miles on a daily driver, but you also have some ncb to put towards it. Still, Adiran Flux are a pretty good place to start. Hope that helps Mark

you're going to aldi in a merc....

doh!

Dosn't say what the CFM rating is for the compressor, but the rattle gun reckons it needs 4CFM (which isn't loads) and I would be loathe to belive it. a 24l reservoir also isn't much, but for the money it's got to be worth a go!

you can just about see the results on the bottom picture

You will need to get some flexible pipes made to replace the existing solid ones. We got them done to exactly the same length as the solids, and they are still too long as the flexy pipe takes a different route to the solid. I would probably be inclined to get them made a couple of inches shorter if I was to do it again, as it is a real pain trying to lose the length. Cheers Mark

By 10mm diameter, do you mean the studs need to be 10mm, or the t-nut needs to be 10mm accross to go in your t-slots? I bought a 3/8 clamp set from chronos for my mill - which has a 10mm slot. They do metric ones too, go to the milling accessories section, wnd you will be spoilt for choice. Alternately, and I had to admit it, but turbocharger is again 100% correct - you do now have all the kit to make your self a set.... Cheers Mark

Is there any merit in just moving the one you have? We have just had to do this on my brothers rangie. He replaced the existing solid pipes with flexible ones, and we moved the cooler up to the top of the rad rather than the bottom. This left enough room to fit a lowline winch (ep9). If you were planning on fitting an 8274 or anoher highline winch, then it dosn't help much, but it's worth considering? Cheers Mark

Ooops missed that...

Would anyone know if it refers to the thursday just gone(22/02), or the thursday coming(01/03)? ta Mark

lets see if democracy works then shall we???

The propshaft bolts through the drum onto the output shaft. The face of the drum and the Disc on the x-brake are (pretty much) the same thickness, so the propshaft length dosn't change at all. The backplate for the drum and the backplate for the x-brake bolt on to exactly the same place (they use the same fixing bolts) Sorry, but I don't think you are going to find any extra space by fitting the x-brake.... Mark

I have done main bearings on other engines where the crank can stay in position, and the bearing shell can be slid up inot position - certianly thats how I did the 2.25 in the IIA. Is the 200 different then?

Andy, I would probably consider doing the crank main bearings as well having got that far. If the bigends are shot I would have thought the mains are going to be in a similar condition? Mark

John, Nick (rougevogue) has made a couple of tanks recently, one for Bish, and one for Rocker. I saw Rockers one during build, and it had baffles in with 'one-way-ish' valves. Anyway, it was all made of steel, but I can almost guarantee it was TIG welded rather than MIG'd. I have also used the POR15 fuel tank liner, as sold by frosts, and it does work for porous tanks! Just my 2p Mark BTW get some bleedin pictures up og the 109 will you???

When I was 16 I had my 2.25 diesel IIA. Strangely I still have it... Welcome to LR4x4...

ooooh, thats a very useful looking bit of kit...

I have red and whites on the front and the rear. With nothing in the car, the the front is _very_nose high. Now, I know they are long springs, but at the rear, I had very little wheel arch gap. Not a great picture, but you get the idea: I added 2" spacers at the back to bring it up level, and a winch on the front to weigh it down. Whenever I have my recovery gear in the back, and a full tank of diesel, it is back to sagging slightly again. If I have people in the back seat it is also quite noticeable. So we are not talking big loads, just the normal sort of stuff. Of road, they are great, because they are so soft, but I think they need to be stiffer for general use. They are great on the back of a 90, but there is so much less heavy car on the back of a 90 compared to a disco, and they are designed to work in conjunction with the self-leveller on a RRC. Just my 2p worth.

I have Red/whites on the back of my disco, and in my opinion they are too soft. The are quite long springs, but a rangie has the boge self leveller, which acts as another spring essentially, so at 170lb/in the red/whites are a bit soft. As yet, however, I havn't found a good replacement for them. Discovery HD progressives are supposed to be good bits of kit... Cheers Mark

The disco LT77 should fit the defender. The difference is in the transfer box - a disco is a 1.2 ratio, and the defender has a 1.4 ratio transfer box, otherwise you should be fine. You will have more issues fitting the disco 200TDI to the defender than you will with the gearbox, but thats covered in various threads, and dosen't seem to be a big hurdle. Mark

Yeah, guess how I learnt that you needed to do that first!!! Oh, I had best go and check mine then. It seemed to do up good and tight without me holding the bolt head, so I figured it was captive in some way... No problem. Mark