Mark

The sound of a properly executed Double de-cluth downshift from 3rd to 2nd in my IIA always makes me smile... possible the lack of the sound of me cocking it up is more accurate!

I had issues with my difflock being hard to engage, and then not staying engaged. In the end I came to the conclusion that the lever wasn't moving far enough accross to get difflock to engage fully. First thing I did was to go underneath and spray wd40 on the linkage to make sure it was all free to move. After a while though, i ended um making the link between the lever and the transfer box slightly longer so it took less movement of the gearstick to put it fully into difflock... I would do as Mr. Monster suggests, but also crawl underneath and check your linkages... Cheers Mark

Hello all, I relaise this topic has been covered but I would really apprecitae some opinions... I am considering changing my 10 spline disco axles for a set of 24 spline disco axles, but I have a couple of queries... At the moment I am talking about completely standard axles - no lockers/strengthened shafts/ uprated CV's as yet. 1) How much stronger are 24 Spline components? I relaise they are more expensive, so if I am going to break stuff with a similar amount of ease then it is just going to get more expensive more quickly... 2) Are 24 spline components easier to upgrade? Looking at ashcrofts site, everything is offered in 10 and 24 spline variants... so opinions sought.... Thanks Mark

lol, the rear door leak is exactly the same as on my 200!!! yeah, I know, I'm not helpful....

Lewis, your sentiment isn't lost on us all mate. Keep on posting and modding and posting and modding... Mark

usually known as Split Rims... Cheers Mark

As Roger says, it replaces the bottom plate on the transfer box, and gives you a PTO on the bottom. It probably does reduce the ground clearance, but I don't off road my IIA. I like the idea of the winch for all sorts of reasons, but the ground clearance doesn't usually enter the equation. The one I saw was at Old sod a few years ago. They guy wanted too much money for something I didn't have a use for at the time, but now I wish I had bought it! Mark

let me know how you do when you tackle the 8074 mainshaft....

My other option is to find a belly PTO, but I have seen one once and I am still kicking myself for not buying it!

fair enough, me too!!!

My point was that since the winch seems t be sitting good and low between the chassis rails, the actual bolts holding the winch down seem to be pretty much in line with the centre line of the drum rather than at the bottom as per the conventional electric drum winches (Husky, EP9, etc), therefore the leverage seen at the bolts is very much less. Equally, since the mounting point is on the centre line, the leverage on the bolts would be the same if the rope came off the top or off the bottom of the drum... does that make sense???

I am inclined to agree. I did mine, one side at a time with the front wheels chocked, and without jacking the truck up. Having another set of arms ready to go straight on and new nuts and bolts makes it about a 20minute job, and minimises the time the truck is left un-stable. Having the axle supported, but still a bit mobile makes getting the bolts back in place a lot easier too. Mark

It looks like a lovely job, and a nice bit of kit - I quite fancy one for my IIA. Problem is with the overdrive stuffed into the PTO hole... Did they do a conversion to drive one of these off the engine crank directly?? Ta Mark

wash your mouth out!

I will measure the tube for you tonight, but I have to be honest, mine are bloody useless for driving with. They do indeed reflect too much off the bonnet to make vision beyond the bonnet almost impossible. I fitted as worklights, so this isn't really a problem for me... I have thought about fitting some deflectors to the bottom of the lights such that they stop any light getting to the bonnet, but a better solution is to use some of simon's x-lites as they have a shade built in.

Is there any scope to take the gearbox mount rubbers out, and leave the engine mounts off whicle you get the box and block aligned and connected? You can then jack and wiggle the two together to get the engine and gearbox mounts in...

here's mine: I bought mine via a supplier on eBay - I wanted it modified to take the numberplate. There are a couple of people doing different versions of the bar though. I looked at making one, but since the screen is curved I decided it would probably be easier to buy one. It is mounted with 2 M6 bolts each side which you have to drill holes in the gutters for. Took about 10 minutes to fit the bar itself, and then ages to do all the wiring! Hope that helps

I have one of these from thunderpole: Team MC-8 Service from thunderpole has always been good, and the CB itself is very compact and has worked faultlessly for me for 18 months since I bought it. I know however, that my brother has the same one, and had to have it replaced under warranty, but thunderpole dealt with that too. There was an MC-8 for sale in the calssifieds recently too, don't know if it was sold tho... HTH Mark

A 7mm Allen key is required, which for some reason dosn't come in most sets...

From memory, when I did my Mk4 golf (and assuming your A3 is an 8L chassis - ie the old shape) the rear pistons did indeed screw back into the caliper body. I used a caliper wind back tool from halfrauds to achieve it. I will have to go and look at the tool to remember how to use it though... Essentially, you cannot just push the piston back into the caliper though... Mark

FWIW and I am not an expert, this is how I understand it... 100% Argon is used for welding stainless and aluminium. it is a true inert gas so you are doing tru MIG welding. Argoshield is CO2 with between 5% and 15% Argon in depending on the grade (light (5-6%ish) / medium (10-12%ish) / heavy (15-18%ish). By using CO2 rather than Argon, you are using an Active gas (so are in fact MAG welding) but the CO2 provides an active shield and allows more penetration. Pub gas is 100% CO2 but is usually a much lower grade gas and has much more moisture dissolved in it, so dosn't give the cleanest of welds. As I said, this is not accurate in any way, but I work on the fact that you use Argoshield for Mild Steel, and Argon for Ally or Stainless (obviously with the correct filler wire). I use Argoshield Medium... Mark

I have snapped shafts and blown diffs doing very mundane road driving in the IIa.. I have always had to work harder in the disco, but the reult is still the same...

IIa and III ones are only different in that the shape of the top and bottom tanks changed. I am pretty certain they are interchangeable otherwise.... Mark

Lol, but don't get Les to fit it though....

Nige, 1 for me please. Ta Mark