ballcock

The Practical Performance Magazine team used something similiar [or would that be Scimiter] on the Safe Breakers tv. show it didn't look that bad. I once saw a picture of a Mgb shell on a Range Rover chassis, that looked quite nice.

Surely it would be the bottom hose as the fan should only cut in if the rad is not capable of cooling the water enough by air through flow without forced assistance.

As a novice to recovery in some of these enviroments these comments may be well off the mark so excuse my ignorance. I would have thought that the axle would be the correct place to attatch a recovery rope / strap as this is generally what is actually stuck in the gloop so rather than putting the excessive strain of recovery through the body and suspension components, which are probably not design for the exertion that must be put upon them having read other posts about suitable winches and the difference between pulling a rolling load to recovering a load stuck in mud. As for attatching a rope to the axle surely you would attatch this before you went off roading just as people attatch a rope prior to going any where they are possibly going to get stuck. This would ensure that the strap would not foul brake lines etc.

Find an online parts list. My Webasto only had a different burning gauze.

You could always wire the remote to operate a timer relay through the live supply that runs for 30mins after switching on then would reset till next switch on, and continue using the existing control manually.

The drain tubes only allow the water out thats past the seals, There is only two on each sunroof unfortunately at the front so if the Disco is parked facing uphill excess water does not run down the tubes but into the truck.

Which seal If the glass sits evenly on the rubber seal it is probably getting through the frame to roof seal.I have stripped both mine out, cleaned and masticed back into place. They seam to be ok now.

I wonder what response you would have off sellers at places like Newbury if you took a digital photograph of them and checked some form of ID for every part that was purchased along with a receipt signed and perhaps a finger print on sticky tape to protect yourself against being prosecuted for recieving stolen goods? If they are unwilling just walk away.

Very nice piece of work. Must have the patience of a saint.

and a good heater

I bought a serp v8 water pump for a measly 99p as it was listed collection only but I had emailed the guy and he gave me a postage price before hand if he had listed it with postage he would have made a little more.

When you say it only spins when you short it which terminals are you shorting? if its the two large terminals it will only spin as its a pre-engaged starter, you need to connect from the main lead to the little terminal to engage the solenoid. the 2a would have had an inertia starter fitted originally with a remote solenoid. it may be a silly question but is the main supply direct to the starter from the battery or still fed via the original solenoid?

I'm using Firefox with no problems.

Try having some one hold a rag into the outlet whilst your looking this should make it more obvious. I had a head gasket gone on mine which sounded like exhaut blow.

I intend to take the unit out and reseal the frame into place but the glass seals are not always ideal and will occasionally allow water in, if the vehicle is parked uphill then this water can accumulate at the rear of the channels and drip out into the body as it has no where else to go. So adding rear drain tubes should alleviate this. I just wondered if any one else had attemted this.

Decided to repair the leaking sunroof on my newly aquired Discovery it's a 1997 V8 ES. Both electric sunroofs were sealed up when purchased so decided to bite the bullet and strip them out. First job remove headlining, bit of a pig but out in one. Next checked drain pipes all clear. But why did Landrover only put drain tubes on the front of each sunroof? This I think is the biggest problem with the sunroof leaking if parked slightly uphill any water getting into the sunroof will collect at the rear of the gutter within the sunroof and drain through clip holes as there is no sealant or any other means of evacuating excess water. My plan is to add extra drain pipes to the rear section after removing and resealing the frame. Has anybody tried this modification? Next question, I find that the sunroofs will not close correctly as they appear to catch on the runners at the point when it tries to drop the glass back down. I assume there is a plastic bush that runs in the channel do these wear are they replaceable? Help thoughts appreciated Tom.

I've now signed but as said will they have time to discuss this in parliament?

Lpg is closed loop, although only single point mixer, It was my thought that on lpg there should be no problem on co but it is reading higher on my gas tester than petrol, Mot tester tested and is reading 1.7% app. but it needs to be below 0.3%. I have done a compression test all ok, all new plugs,leads, good distributor, swapped coil for spare, tested water temp sensor and IAC has new lambda sensors, swapped AFM still getting same readings. Started to fit replacement cats this evening and snapped manifold stud whilst trying to get the damned thing to seal (cheap new set off Ebay). Spotted some rust on chassis so might mothball it as a future project as my neighbour has offered me a 300 Tdi but I don't like the colour.

You cannot make the ECU ignore the cats as they do not form part of the control system, you are confusing them with the Lambda sensors which I have replaced recently along with most of the ignition system.

With reference to my earlier oil pressure post I have changed the oil twice recently. I am now waiting for a pair of replacement cats, having tried a replacement AIC and tested water temp sensor so hopefully this will cure it.

Help and advice wanted. My 3.9 V8 has emmisions problems, after sorting out the rattly tappet (thanks for advice) I'm still getting high CO readings just under 2.0%. I have replaced the lambda sensors, new plugs, new leads, timing spot on, tried a different AFM, exhaust sound. Cannot think of possible cause other than the cats. I have the problem running on both petrol & lpg. On lpg the CO is higher. The engine seems to run perfectly no more noises it shouldn't have and pulls well. What have I missed?

That looks better should not need doing for a while.

Do the forum members who go wear a badge or flag so the other members can introduce themselves?

I was thinking of going but it clashes with some thing far more important than the L2B, My wifes BIRTHDAY. She has said I can go but I'm afraid of what it will cost me as a sweetener.

Do you mean " It's not unusual "