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You must have changed flywheel as well ? The bolt pattern that holds the flex plate, spacer and flywheel onto the crank adaptor is a slightly different PCD when comparing the RRC to the P38. The crank has the same 6 bolt layout just the adaptor thats different (the one held on with capheads).

Ran into a bit of a problem The P38 4.6 comes with the 4HP24 auto gearbox. I'm running a 4HP22 in my truck. I don't have the time to strip and rebuild it with HP24 internals so just going to run it until and see. This means that that the 4.6 Torque convertor doesn't fit. It's bigger than the 4.2 TC that i removed. However the 4.2 (and 3.9 RRC) has a different mounting system for the TC. They sit a lot further from the fly wheel and use a spacer. My initial plan was to redrill the P38 flywheel to match the 4.2 TC. Which would work, had i remembered to line up the 4 bolts that you bolt the TC on through the fly wheel holes..... I didn't, which meant that access to those 4 M10 bolts would be to difficult. So i popped along to a friend who breaks P38's. He had a 4.0 engine and box (4HP22) that we stripped and i've got that fly wheel and TC now. It's a different mounting design that doesn't use the same style spacer. I've also had to swap exhaust manifolds as the P38 tubular are too wide for my chassis. Whilst they were off i've put new M10 studs in, so hopefully they won't just snap when i tighten / loosen them next time. RRC 4.2 LSE ....................... P38 4.0 ................................. P38 4.6 G

Very good Did you remove the video ? G

Source an np203 and np205 from american pickups. Make a doubler out of the 203. Much easier and stronger. G

Phone Mr Bowyer. @ Goodwinch He'll sort you out with which winch and a rope. A synthetic rope would be easier to handle, but not sure how long it would last if he's logging all day. My centre winch is a TDS9.5 with bow2 and i run that just with a single battery (a 5.5 otpima though!) and a standard 100A alternator. I don't use it all day long but for short usage it's perfectly fine. G

If space is an issue, rakeway make a housing that shortens the rear output. G

Or bend the shaft a bit ?

Just got to bore the hole and get the internal keyway done. This is where the dog clutch goes into. Unfortunately i don't have space for a coupling of sorts. We've run solid drive for a few years now and only worn out 2 keys. So just change them regularly instead now. Drilled and tapped an extra 4 holes in the pulley. The pulley has been machined a bit and then a boss made to fit that with a snug fit. G

You couldn't get it spot on. You can only rotate it 90°. If you look at my first picture in post #9 you will see where the torque convertor bolts onto the flex plate. These 4 bolts are accessed through the ring - which has 4 big holes. It's a lot more work to re-rivet the thing than just move the whole lot. But yes, it's possible. I have been making a new hydrualic pump drive so not done any more on this side of things. Going to remove my 4.2 this weekend. G

Evening, I have an old colchester student and was wondering what they're like to add a DRO system to ? I know a few others on here have students, have you got DRO ? This system looks pretty cheap :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Milling-and-Lathe-DRO-Linear-Scale-Kit-/170994466144?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&var=&hash=item27d0107d60 I'd be after a 2-axis. Any suggestions ? This is only for home use. Cheers Gordon

I guess it'll also depend on what size / width tyres you've got ? Am i correct in guessing that a wolf wheel is 6.5" wide. But you've got a beadlock on the outer edge, so it's now approx 7" wide (1/2" (12mm) for the edge). It would also now change the offset from +20 to +26mm. (i.e. 12mm / 2 = +6mm) Have i done that right ? http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator http://kgm.tiwing.com/calcs/offsetcalc.htm

I'm not going to change the sensor. That's the type thats on my engine. If you look at my first pic in post #9 you can see the blue plug. G

I've got the exact same pillar drill. As said above you just need a staggered pulley on the motor. I Only have 1 belt and it works on the whole range with no slipping. I assume the 2 pulleys have to be the same but reversed. They are very nice drills Gordon

Yes. But you can only turn it in 90 degree increments, which is the same as what i've done. I didn't want to re-rivet it back on as i don't trust (aftermarket) rivets for a ring that's spinning at 4,000 rpm next to a sensor. G

No, you're not right...sorry.

Torque convertor removed: Flex plate removed. Notice dowel / locator pin at nearly 12 o'clock: With the engine at TDC, the missing tooth is 2 teeth behind the crank shaft sensor. Rotate the fly wheel round 90° and redrill the locator hole. Notice the marker pen lines from before. A bit difficult to see, but the missing tooth is now 7 teeth ahead of the crank sensor when at TDC. I can make adjustment with megatune i think. The engine will go in later this week. Hope it works. G

Technically you're right, but it's normally setup with mark on the bottom of the big gear & mark at the top of the bottom gear. The above pictured will be ok as the crank turns twice to the cams once. G From google :

Yes. Sometimes you can help fit it with a heat gun / hair dryer. It is very good. G

Mine is a 1994 / 1995. If the 4 bolt holes are equally spaced and concentric, then i could possibly rotate it 90°, with a little bit of adapting.This will now put the gap -20 + 90 = 70° BTDC. So i could trim it 10° in the settings. G This is the sensor :

I suppose you're right the punch's will be upside down on the card...they might notice that !

I think i might get a set of #1 to #50 Should help getting more points :D :D

I know this isn't megasquirt, but there seem to be a lot of similar aspects to it : http://www.lloydspecialistdevelopments.co.uk/assets/files/Downloads/Rover%20V8%20DIS%20Kit%20Instructions%201.6%20Canems%20GEMS.pdf Page 12 : Rotate the engine until No.1 cylinder is at TDC as indicated by OEM timing marks. Check No.1cylinder is at TDC very carefully with a long probe or screwdriver. Please do check the accuracy of damper rim TDC markings (we have seen them as far as 10 degrees out!) 2. Count the number of trigger wheel teeth between the Crank VR sensor to the missing tooth, in the direction of crankshaft rotation. In this example the missing tooth is 6 teeth or 60 degrees after the Crank VR sensor. This means the missing tooth passes the crank sensor 60 degrees before cylinder 1 is at TDC Should work then as we have 45 degrees to play with on MS ? Oh, or : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=53572 The output signal from the CKP sensor is obtained from the magnetic path being made and broken as the reluctor ring teeth pass the sensor tip. The reluctor ring has 35 teeth and one missing tooth spaced at 10°intervals. The missing tooth is positioned at 20°after TDC. Erm..... ? I'll have to check.

Evening, I pulled out my p38's 4.6 today to go in my challenge buggy, which is currently a 4.2 non serp. My 4.2 is currently running MS with edis. I got the brackets and trigger wheel from Nige to fit to the front of my gems 4.6 serp. BUT, when i got the engine out i was looking at the crank sensor ? I haven't checked where the gap is in relation to TDC, but a look on google shows that they have 35 teeth and a missing 1. Same as an edis trigger wheel. Has anyone run MS with edis using the standard crank sensor ? It would make my life easier as i run a crank driven hydraulic pump and having a 'loose' trigger wheel makes mounting things awkward. I had a quick search and found this thread : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73515 Here's my missing tooth, excuse the oil leak from the sump : From google : G

The CV's are something we've not broken to be honest, so yes they're strong. Not sure if i like the floating aspect of it, but it's only offroad so not high speed for us. We have broken all 4 shafts on various occasions as well as numerous stub shafts. I dread to think how many. G

Mike, On the rear the strongest you can get will be a salisbury. My codriver (James) has a heavy right foot and used to run a sals in the back of his. But got fed up of the massive diff. So now has a 24 spline welded center (no good for you on road) with a salisbury shaft in one side and a HD in the other. Both are pretty twisted but they're still holding up On the front we've had good results using the newer defender stuff. Drew (another trialler with a nice 3.9 v8) has given his a fair amount of abuse and yet to break. Both the above are running aligator tyres and only offroaders. On mine i've got Kam throughout......i've also got a shelf full of broken Kam But then again, heavy right foot, big tyres etc don't help. G