rincewind23 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Hi all, I'm currently replacing the u-joints on both prop shafts on my Defender. While I've got them off I figured I would clean up the shafts and replace the nuts and bolts attaching them to the transfer box and diffs. As I understand it from reading up on it, the bolts should go in the diff flanges and the nuts on the propshaft side. I *think* from what I've seen that the thin plate stopping me from getting the bolts in (see pic) is a mud shield and I should be able to get this off with a press, but I wanted to check with people who know before I just bend something and need to buy a new one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 It should just tap off, though you may need to break the rust seal first. Is that a score on your seal land there ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) I always put the bolts through from the prop side...... axle end! Edited January 8, 2017 by Disco-Ron correcting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 bolt heads facing the diff casing, there's not enough space for the bolt tail/nuts to go on the other way round, if it was bolt tail to diff it would foul on the diff casing. that shield should come off quite easily once the rust.crudis removed. IIRC a new shield comes in the flange kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 But on the transfer end the bolts go from behind the flange. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rincewind23 Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks for all the replies - I thought I had read that the bolt head should face the diff casing - obviously it's easier to put them in the other way (no need to remove the flange) so that's what had been done before. a 14mm socket/spanner had been used by a previous owner and had mangled the heads, so replacing them was a no-brainer and I want to put them the right way round. Mo, I checked and there are a couple of scores on the flange - the larger one in the photo I can *just about* feel by running my nail across it if I'm really concentrating to notice it. Should I replace something else to prevent this getting worse, or is it just a bit of grit that needs cleaning out. I nearly forgot - the shield popped off nicely once the rust seal broke. I'm going to respray the flange then press it back together with the bolts in place before reassembling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 prop bolts are 9/16 spanner size bolts part number 509045P Thread 3/8UNF nuts part number NZ606041L 3/8 UNF Nyloc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rincewind23 Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks Western - I already have the correct nuts and bolts (including the slightly longer ones for where the prop connects to the handbrake). I also bought the special tool which made it marginally easier to undo things 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Well rincewind, you can always pop it back in with a new seal and try it. If it doesn't leak - bonus, if it does leak you'll need to change it. If it's very minor you'll probably be ok with it. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rincewind23 Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks Mo - I have a ton of other leaky things to get to - sump, sump plug, oil takeoff, power steering, transfer box, bank account... - I wil throw it all back in and hope it holds until I've got to everything else. On a related note, how much rotational play should there be in the flange? My front one has enough play that an impact wrench won't get the big nut off, it just shakes the flange back and forwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 You need to hold the flange via the bolt holes (LR have a special tool) to stop the flange from moving whilst trying to loosen the nut. However, looking at your first pic are there only 4 splines on that pinion flange? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 You can use a pry bar or crow bar between the outside of the socket and a bolt through the flange, with the other end against the ground, to stop the pinion turning while you remove the nut with a breaker bar. Use a scrap bolt as it'll likely bend in the process. The prop shaft nuts and bolts should eb fitted with the bolt head prop side and the nuts diff side - not only does this get around your problem with the mud shield, but it means the prop spider and inner yolks won't foul the greater protrusion of the nuts and bolt ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rincewind23 Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 Scotts, There are indeed only four spines on that flange - that's the one I managed to get off from the rear diff. I don't know how many splines on the front flange yet, It's raining hard and blowing a gale here so I haven't ventured out to try again yet.. Is that unusual, then? I bought this Defender (with a 3.9v8 Disco engine) as-is, and I have already had plenty of surprises from it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Never seen a 4 spline on a defender before, must be an early diff. The diff experts will know for sure, what age is your defender? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rincewind23 Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 It's a 1988 CSW. I know it's a CSW because you can still see the decals underneath where a previous owner just resprayed over everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 That flange has had it . Get a new flange but use a td5 seal and dust shield or if feeling flush one of my superflanges . That will wreck new seal very swiftly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rincewind23 Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Thanks for letting me know I need a new flange. I'm not feeling flush enough for one of your superflanges yet, but maybe some time in the future if I ever decide to overhaul the diff I'll treat myself I also wasn't planning to replace the seal, but if the flange is shot chances are the seal is also shot already. Is it FRC8220 I need? Looks like the flange is 236632 and shield is FRC8154. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 If not feeling flush, whack it back together and fix it if and when you notice it actually leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I can't see any deep scoring or any pitting - it looks like the spot where the seal runs is marked but not grooved. Without being able to feel that area, I can't be very confident, but it looks to me like it'd be fine with a new seal. I'd be inclined to give it clean and then a polish with fine emery (circumferentially, not longitudinally) to see how it scrubs up. The rust is irrelevant as it's well away from the seal, but a little waxoil or grease on it would be beneficial to stop it spreading to the seal area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rincewind23 Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 I manage to get three flanges off (the castellated nut on the front one refuses to move despite penetrating oil, heat, and an impact wrench!) cleaned up and bolts replaced. When I drained the transfer box before removing the rear flange there was only about a litre of oil (before I dropped it all over the floor!) so it's a good job I did this - I think it's supposed to be more around the 2 litre mark.. Thanks again for all the replies, I'm certainly learning a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 I hope it’s okay to an older tread. I’m currently experiencing a very nasty rattle coming from the transfer box/ prop shaft area. It seems to appear mostly at low speeds and after accelerating/cornering or going over a bump. After reading several treads I suspect the UJ’s are bad. So thanks to the forum I managed to get the front prop of and replaced the front UJ. I did not feel any real play in the UJ but there was no grease in it left. ( I should have greased this more regularly). As my circlip plyers gave up I couldn’t change the other UJ both this also had no real play. After reassembly the rattle was gone….. for a couple of days. It’s back now and I’m wondering what it could be. Is it possible the UJ is worn without signs of play? And the front mud shield feels slightly loose bot does not have obvious marks of coming in contact with the prop. Could this make the rattling sound? Last question, could it be the prop shaft itself/ does this need greasing also? Many thanks for your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Could be the mudshield loose on the flange. propshafts usually have 3 grease nipples on at each UJ & one for the sliding joint, a few shots from a grease gun will be good, don't over do it, 4 or 5 strokes would be plenty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Perfect thanks. I’ll look for the 3rd nipple. can you just tap The muf shield back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 yes it should tap back onto the prop flange, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 Thanks Western. I checked the mud shields. I think they are fitted correctly. the turn with the prop shaft and I don't see any scratches which may indicate that they are hitting the diff housing. I greased the props (5 pumps of the grease gun). However, the rattle is still there. It's primarily when driving away. If I accelerate faster it seems to stop. Could the rattle come from the prop itself (and/or UJ's)? what else could it be? Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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