tommobot Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 My 90 seems to have developed a whine, not all the time that seems to be related to when lifting off / coasting... Most of what I could find was stating about whining under load, ratther than when coasting.. Generally underload it seems fine, normal, no noise at all. I would suggest the best way to describe the noise is that it sounds like the overdrive being engaged in a older landy when coasting / freewheeling. It doenst do it with the clutch depressed etc.. I've had a looksies online, suggestions it could be the output shaft. I'll get the UJ's greased up and check the diff oil levels. Any suggestions welcome Its a 90 defender with a 200tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Our ambulance did this, the theory was the LT230 input gear / bearings although I swapped the LT230 (which cured it) so didn't exactly prove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Mine did it for a while and I traced it to the front diff. I'd put in a used one as a stop-gap. Replaced with a freshly rebuilt one and it was all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Am I right in thinking I can remove the front prop, and engage diff lock to have 2wd only, or is that for rear prop? Either way, I assume that would be a fairly certain way to dianose if it were one of the diffs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Yep you can do that for either prop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Ah excellent, is it 'safe' for speeds upto 50~ish? The whine mainly occurs in 3rd and 4th gears... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Yeah, totally safe. Just be wary that the handling will change as the drive is being sent to one end only. If you drive sensibly you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 34 minutes ago, tommobot said: Ah excellent, is it 'safe' for speeds upto 50~ish? The whine mainly occurs in 3rd and 4th gears... Cough I've never done considerably more than 50 like that just remember to put the prop nuts back on to stop the hand brake drum falling off. Trust me the little screw doesn't keep it on. I've never had to go back and pick the drum up off a roundabout. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Yes, safe, as above, handling is very different, especially in front front wheel drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 My experience of these types of sounds on overrun is that the culprit is the transfer box. Like Fridges experience it was resolved on both occasions by changing the transfer box. I also learned in this way that GKN overdrives are not compatible with early LT230 transfer boxes ? you've never heard a howl like it ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 So I've taken the rear prop off and taken for a quick spin.. Normally the clutch judders a bit sometimes, but with the rear prop off it was crazy and super rattly ?.. Is that normal.. To be fair it was ok when under load from engine.. Anyways, noise appears to have vanished, so thinking rear diff is the culprit.. its also got a wee leak beneath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Noise has got considerably worse.. Its constant now, sounds like a fax machine, a constant on off grinding. In all gears, underload which vanishes when clutch depressed. Thinking transfer box output shaft again.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 The noise got worse.. Popped to LR garage to get parts, on way back very loud bangs from geartrain.. stopped.. investigated.. Carried on slowly, completely a ok again.. 5 mins later, more bangs, barely moves, almost like handbrake is on. Took off rear prop, even worse.. There also appears to be a HUGE crack with fresh oil around transfer box.. Sat waiting for AA..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 That sucks! I think people may have underestimated what you ment by a wine. You get home ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Look on the bright side, I think you may have found your problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Oh dear! Hope it's a simple fix. Mine also has a whine which has developed over the last 3 weeks/few thousand miles, I had believe it was due to the recently replaced gearbox but this does make me wonder. I need to take the props off for proper greasing and UJ/flange/nuts/bolts replacement so will try a short test drive with each removed to rule out the diffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Currently thinking replacing clutch as and S/H transferbox. Clutch has always been a bit 'juddery', so if the transferbox is coming off it seems fairly sensible to do the clutch aswell... And there was me hoping it was just the output shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Erm, you don't go near the clutch to swap the transfer box. Only if you were swapping the main gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Surely if i've taken the props off, linkages off etc.. to remove the transfer box then its not 'that much' more work to change the clutch? Or is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Well, it's less work than otherwise, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 53 minutes ago, tommobot said: Surely if i've taken the props off, linkages off etc.. to remove the transfer box then its not 'that much' more work to change the clutch? Or is it? Perfectly reasonable step to take at the same time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Having a look online, it appears that with an engine crane taking the gearbox, transfer & engine out as one with the front radiator out the way may be the easiest / least painful option.. This will be undertaken on the drive and I really don't fancy a couple of us trying to lever the transferbox / gearbox down on a jack, and then trying to realign underneath the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Doing the transfer box on the drive isn't that bad, a couple of studs to line it up and a ratchet strap will see you drop it and lift it safely into position. You have the benefit of doing it on a defender, where the seat box top is easily removable, quite different on a Disco/RRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 1 hour ago, tommobot said: Having a look online, it appears that with an engine crane taking the gearbox, transfer & engine out as one with the front radiator out the way may be the easiest / least painful option.. This will be undertaken on the drive and I really don't fancy a couple of us trying to lever the transferbox / gearbox down on a jack, and then trying to realign underneath the car. Engine crane through the door with the floor and or seatbox removed and just remove the gearboxes. You dont need to touch the engine this way. You can drop the boxes as one lump or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Just now, reb78 said: Engine crane through the door with the floor and or seatbox removed and just remove the gearboxes. You dont need to touch the engine this way. You can drop the boxes as one lump or two. Mmmmm from further reading that seems more sensible.... Engine crane to be ordered shortly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.