Pastycrimper Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 12 minutes ago, landroversforever said: I did wonder when you said it was from a 2007. Hopefully they'll let you return it? Indeed! Scrappers - he said it was off a late TD5 but did mention 2007 so I should have twigged and double checked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 11 hours ago, Pastycrimper said: Hi, Well unfortunately the heater blower unit/assembly I just received from breakers is a Puma/TDCi type so no good to me. Do you have one available in good condition? Yes I have a few. I will dig one out tomorrow. shame I was just down the road from your Defender last weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted December 15, 2017 Author Share Posted December 15, 2017 On 13/12/2017 at 12:05 AM, oneandtwo said: Yes I have a few. I will dig one out tomorrow. shame I was just down the road from your Defender last weekend! Ahoy. Thornton Breakers are sending down another one free of charge from an earlier (2001) TD5. Not sure what the condition will be like........ Has anyone ever tried refurbishing a the whole heater assembly. My old one looks largely riveted together. I am planning on wire brushing mine back to steel and rust priming and repainting but I guess it is also rusting from the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 The housings are riveted along several joints, spot welded on others, but you should be able to dismantle it with just drilling out rivets. I ran caustic soda solution through mine to clear out scale and rust, and it brought out a lot. I left it soaking in a bucket of hot caustic soda solution to cleanse the outside. It works well, but give it a good purge with clean water to prevent coolant contamination and water pump damage later. The big Alisport upgrade matrix is tempting but expensive. Somebody on here did a great heater upgrade using a matrix that also had an electrical heater, I think from a Peugeot, so they got instant heat electrically and then engine heat once after a few minutes to save alternator load. I think it may have been Maverick, but I'm not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 4 hours ago, Pastycrimper said: Ahoy. Thornton Breakers are sending down another one free of charge from an earlier (2001) TD5. Not sure what the condition will be like........ Has anyone ever tried refurbishing a the whole heater assembly. My old one looks largely riveted together. I am planning on wire brushing mine back to steel and rust priming and repainting but I guess it is also rusting from the inside. heater unit overhaul https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Fx3ccQg8Wc fitting a bigger heater matrix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ii7kw07oMU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted December 16, 2017 Author Share Posted December 16, 2017 Thanks again. I'm definitely going to restore this one. The matrix is still mint. I'm going to disable the diverter flap - lock it so that air is always flowing through matrix and do away with that control cable altogether. I've just seen a replacement cable controller which has the two way switch in it available as a variable resistor to control the motor (I'll post the link when I get it). Worst part of the job is getting the old paint and rust off as I see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 7 hours ago, Pastycrimper said: I'm going to disable the diverter flap - lock it so that air is always flowing through matrix and do away with that control cable altogether. Why? There is n benefit in doing that, and losing temperature control to leave the unit permanently set at full heat seems counter productive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 I can't see any advantage myself either. You'll be blowing hot air all the time even in summer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 My thinking is with the main flap closed (through bulkhead air-in) and the fan off, even in summer not much warm air will pass through the system. This way whenever I actuate the opening of the main flap it will always immediately be dry air which may help remove the issue I get when switching from hot to cold (the diverter flap) of getting a sudden "insta-steam-up" window effect. Not sure. It all depends on my first assumption that not much hot air will be pouring into the cab with the main flap closed and the fan off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 10 minutes ago, Pastycrimper said: My thinking is with the main flap closed (through bulkhead air-in) and the fan off, even in summer not much warm air will pass through the system. This way whenever I actuate the opening of the main flap it will always immediately be dry air which may help remove the issue I get when switching from hot to cold (the diverter flap) of getting a sudden "insta-steam-up" window effect. Not sure. It all depends on my first assumption that not much hot air will be pouring into the cab with the main flap closed and the fan off. Far better to ensure the drain mitre valve is clear and fir a snow cowl to prevent debris entering the duct (and most water too) that clogs said mitre valve. Removing the temperature control won't help any more than leaving it set to hot, and will reduce the hot air anyway - the flap works by blocking whichever side is not needed, and so when you want hot air it blocks the cold air bypass around the matrix; if you remove the flap, the bulk of the air will bypass the matrix and never give you more than tepid air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 The other issue I see is the car taking longer to warm up all the time if the heater is always open and taking heat from the coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 The flap also becomes defunct when fitting the Landreizeger variable fan module. There's been no noticeable difference in warm up time, the only downside is on the one warm-ish day we get up here in Scotland it can get a bit sweaty. Opening the bulkhead vents soon overwhelms any residual heat blown through the matrix when driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 9 hours ago, landroversforever said: The other issue I see is the car taking longer to warm up all the time if the heater is always open and taking heat from the coolant. The coolant volume is minimal and the heater matrix small, so it only affects warm up times if the engine is idling (even the old matrix type can bring engine temperature down from normal to fairly cool if the engine is only idling) - as soon as it starts working, the cooling effect of the heater becomes irrelevant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 If the matrix is always being cooled by the air going through it, it's always going make it take longer. As the coolant circuit to the heater is unaffected by the thermostat it will affect the warm-up time. Friend of mine has recently had a webasto fitted in his T5 VW camper and he said the single biggest difference is how much quicker the engine warms up every morning as the blower is now always off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 Yes agree about the effect of a heater. In my early driving days I seemed to often be struggling with almost overheating engines. I drove a Fiat 850 van and then their 850 Sport Coupé (very grand title I know) which had a 909cc engine. The heater most definitely affected the amount of engine cooling and more often than not it was the difference between boilng over or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 On 27/12/2017 at 11:50 PM, Scotts90 said: The flap also becomes defunct when fitting the Landreizeger variable fan module. There's been no noticeable difference in warm up time, the only downside is on the one warm-ish day we get up here in Scotland it can get a bit sweaty. Opening the bulkhead vents soon overwhelms any residual heat blown through the matrix when driving. OK I think you know more than me here! This is what was planning on fitting (except I saw it on a Norwegian LR site). From what I can see when you use this the diverter flap becomes defunct - by defunct to you mean always held so that air diverts through the matrix. As far as I know there are only two flaps/mechanical actions - the diverter flap which either pushes air around the matrix or through the matrix. The other flap just controls whether air can flow through the bulkhead and into the cab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Its the lower flap that you disable so you can’t stop the air flowing into the plenum/cab so you still get residual heat blowing through...albeit marginal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 OK my mistake...(Thanks Scotts90). Using one of these (https://shop.landreiziger.nl/modificatie/mods-in-a-box/elektronische-ventilator-aansturing-2575.html) gives full variable fan speed control but it is the main duct/flap into cab that stays open NOT the diverted flap like i started saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 If you want variable speed control, then fine, but I take issue with its claim of higher fan speed - the high setting on the Defender is a plain wire with no resistor, so as long as the switch is in good order, the resistance can't be greater than their electronic unit and the fan speed can't be greater. If it deletes the function of the blocking flap, it seems a backwards step to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Higher fan speed is debatable but the controllability is not. As standard you have fart or furnace...this allows something in between Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 simonb on here does a resistor kit to increase the slow speed, the fast speed is unaffected as it doesn't pass through any resistors. to increase the airflow through see the 'supercharging your heater' thread in the defender forum & its linked in the tech archive index too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 It's PWM driven so it won't be faster but it will retain full torque at all speeds so is much better than a resistor based method which just reduces the supplied voltage (which makes it easier to stall). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 I've just gt back from sea....turns out the chap who sells these is 5km frm the Dutch offices I work for in Dordrecht. A very nice chap I must say. But yes I agree with the comments - it doesn't make it faster. It just gives a a range rather than: 1 - Off, 2 - pointless fart, 3 - full hammer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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