Mog 404 axles

[FridgeFreezer]

4 hours ago, dangerous doug said:

It does actually get worse…..

At least they painted it bright orange as a warning to onlookers

[Bowie69]

I think the key difference between your radius arm ends and everyone else, is that yours are initially straight, whereas the others are immediately curved, to make use of the uplift in the chassis at that point, to sneak the bar under.

You are trying to do it further down the rail, and I think that is why are you struggling so much. Equally, I think the series chassis has less of the curve, maybe, than a coiler, so perhaps another reason why it is so tight?

Could you stick the radius arm ends in the forge and bend them inwards?

[Stellaghost]

40 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

I think the key difference between your radius arm ends and everyone else, is that yours are initially straight, whereas the others are immediately curved, to make use of the uplift in the chassis at that point, to sneak the bar under.

You are trying to do it further down the rail, and I think that is why are you struggling so much. Equally, I think the series chassis has less of the curve, maybe, than a coiler, so perhaps another reason why it is so tight?

Could you stick the radius arm ends in the forge and bend them inwards?

Arm's heated and bent is my first port of call, my lightweight is on an old RRC platform and not series so no issues with chassis curve differences

At the moment I'm going to stick with single link, I can alter the shape of the lower chassis and build back strength on top. This will be made a lot easier with the arms bent into a more suitable position

I am extremely grateful for the advice of putting chassis onto axles, it's made stuff a wee bit more difficult at the moment, but I think my problems would have been a lot worse in the future if I had not done this

All thank you for your input, this build has made me realise I could not do it alone much regards Stephen

[steve b]

I think Dan did a one link front on his G-mog with pretty straight arms ? 

It's coming together well now , great build Stephen . 

Steve

[dangerous doug]

1 hour ago, steve b said:

I think Dan did a one link front on his G-mog with pretty straight arms ? 

It's coming together well now , great build Stephen . 

Steve

I think he currently runs one on his patrol?

[muddy]

If/when I ever build one for my 90 my plan was to heat and bend some hockey sticks inwards and then fab a top triangle joint with threaded boss' so you could just screw a new arm on should you need to (best laid plans of thread cutting start points and shank lengths etc etc....)

 

The issue with the build above was similar to yours in that it was starting from nearly scratch with a pile of components so bending bits of toob was quick and easy to try and package everything. Perhaps a full skid plate on the underside of the link would add sufficient strength. 

[Stellaghost]

Part of a different thread but part of my build

Mog axle chassis with my nearly completed aluminium bulkhead build regards Stephen 

[dangerous doug]

Love it Stephen, it’s come out really nicely. On the whole would you say it’s worth it? I need to repair my light weight bulkhead but it’s probably as much work to make another one so this is defenatly an avenue for me to look into when I get a minute to read through a 12 page thread😂

[Stellaghost]

23 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

Love it Stephen, it’s come out really nicely. On the whole would you say it’s worth it? I need to repair my light weight bulkhead but it’s probably as much work to make another one so this is defenatly an avenue for me to look into when I get a minute to read through a 12 page thread😂

I would say it's worth it, without looking back I guess it's taken me around 4/5 weeks on and off and what really makes it worth it is no tin worm...lol

It could be quicker for you as I already have formers for the hinge panels and gearbox tunnel so I could make them and post them down to you if you wanted regards Stephen

[dangerous doug]

3 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

 

It could be quicker for you as I already have formers for the hinge panels and gearbox tunnel so I could make them and post them down to you if you wanted regards Stephen

I would really appreciate that, let me know when you have some time to spare and we’ll go from there.

 

out of interest, what would you say the weight difference is?

[Stellaghost]

21 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

 

 

out of interest, what would you say the weight difference is?

I'll weigh it tomorrow regards Stephen

[Stellaghost]

13 hours ago, dangerous doug said:

 

out of interest, what would you say the weight difference is?

I don't know the weight of a mild steel lightweight bulkhead ( can weigh  mine once stripped ) but the aluminium one I've just built weigh's 18.5kg regards Stephen 

[Stellaghost]

Radius arm ends removed for Bush removal prior to heating and bending Regards Stephen 

[markyboy]

On 8/9/2022 at 5:39 PM, Stellaghost said:

Part of a different thread but part of my build

Mog axle chassis with my nearly completed aluminium bulkhead build regards Stephen 

Stunning fab work (no surprise there).

[Stellaghost]

So pleased I've got this crane, although may need to look at motorising it as it's bloody heavy to push

Engine and box lifted in to see what's what, the bad news is it will not go into position because the axles and chassis are in worst case scenario position

By my reckoning I've got two choices, first off raise the Engine and box by 2" or secondly increase my bumpstop depth by the same amount

Hmm???????

Regards Stephen  

 

[L19MUD]

2 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

 

 

By my reckoning I've got two choices, first off raise the Engine and box by 2" or secondly increase my bumpstop depth by the same amount

 

 

First option would mean significant mods to the lovely new bulkhead you have made plus put the gearbox up into where the seatbox should be. Can any gains be had by modifying the shape of the sump?

[Stellaghost]

1 minute ago, L19MUD said:

First option would mean significant mods to the lovely new bulkhead you have made plus put the gearbox up into where the seatbox should be. Can any gains be had by modifying the shape of the sump?

I'm quite prepared to chop bulkhead if needed, sump cannot be modified as diff is touching bottom of block

Wouldn't need to chop bulkhead I could just raise the outriggers enough to help, but then I would also have to raise rear body etc

Also thinking about moving Engine forward a couple of inches to increase rear prop length, at the moment rear is sitting at 22" and front is 29"

If I extend bumpstops then I could alter suspension to suit ( this works as nothing fabbed up for them yet)

Decisions decisions regards Stephen 

[dangerous doug]

On 8/10/2022 at 10:16 AM, Stellaghost said:

I don't know the weight of a mild steel lightweight bulkhead ( can weigh  mine once stripped ) but the aluminium one I've just built weigh's 18.5kg regards Stephen 

4/5ths of F-all then!😂

[Stellaghost]

These might shed a bit more light on things

In hindsight turning the axle casing upside down would have given me more clearance, oh well...

regards Stephen 

[Bowie69]

Offset the engine/gearbox to the left -very common even in production vehicles.

With that, and some steel bump stop pads 1" thick, maybe be enough?

[Stellaghost]

More clearance pictures or should that be lack of regards Stephen 

 

[Bowie69]

Time to make the one-link a little longer than you had anticipated.

Could solve 90% of the problems?

[Stellaghost]

30 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Time to make the one-link a little longer than you had anticipated.

Could solve 90% of the problems?

You'll have to run that by me in a bit more detail my friend regards Stephen

[Bowie69]

1 minute ago, Stellaghost said:

You'll have to run that by me in a bit more detail my friend regards Stephen

Sure....

So... by making the one-link a bit longer (2-3 inches?), you move the axle forward a bit, this does two things: Allows room for the front pulley to move down more, and allows you to rotate the diff pinion down a bit which allows more clearance to the block of the 200TDI. A side effect is the chassis may be curving down at this point so you may gain a few extra mm there as well. Of course you need to re-attach your spring pads, but there are worse things to do, this way all you do is the springs and adjust the one link you haven't actually built yet.

Then offset the TDI in the engine bay to the passenger side and the pinion will possibly have enough clearance under the RH engine mount.

Then you can talk about bigger metal bumpstops and the like, if things still aren't working out.

I don't think you want to move the engine forward really, as you will end up making the pullet clearance issue worse....

 

 

[Stellaghost]

7 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Sure....

So... by making the one-link a bit longer (2-3 inches?), you move the axle forward a bit, this does two things: Allows room for the front pulley to move down more, and allows you to rotate the diff pinion down a bit which allows more clearance to the block of the 200TDI. A side effect is the chassis may be curving down at this point so you may gain a few extra mm there as well. Of course you need to re-attach your spring pads, but there are worse things to do, this way all you do is the springs and adjust the one link you haven't actually built yet.

Then offset the TDI in the engine bay to the passenger side and the pinion will possibly have enough clearance under the RH engine mount.

Then you can talk about bigger metal bumpstops and the like, if things still aren't working out.

I don't think you want to move the engine forward really, as you will end up making the pullet clearance issue worse....

 

 

Thanks, think I've got the gist of what your saying, will have a good look and measure tomorrow, will struggle a bit with top spring mount because of I move it forward I will clash with power steering holes, I'll take a look tomorrow regards Stephen