monkie Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 The MOT is approaching next month so I have spent quite a bit of time under my 110 with the MIG sorting out a couple of patches on the chassis and putting a new exhaust system on. Whilst doing this I noticed that the rear diff is starting to leak at the drive flange so I want to nip this in the bud. I've never done anything with either diff (other than oil change) so I don't know what to expect really. For those who have been here before, is it worth while getting the flange kit as in the link below or just the seal? (I'm considering the middle option with a lower price tag than LR but not one from a blue box). Also what about the bearing while I'm here, is that a job that can be done without stripping the diff? https://www.lrdirect.com/STC4457-Flange-Oem/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Did mine a while back you’ll need to make a tool like this , makes it a lot easier to tighten the nut back up I replaced just the seal , but there are a few other bits that you might want to replace behind the seal like a fibre washer so I’d have a look in the parts book . Think I was advised not to change to the later style flange due to possibly altering the bearing preload , and you need to remove the diff to do the bearing I believe , you need to mark the nut so you tighten it back up correctly , I had a thread with what I was advised but can’t find it on here it was only 3 months ago , sure one of the experienced lads will be along to put you right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Thanks for that useful info. I watched a video on it and they made a tool not half as good as that one you've got. Do you have the measurements of the holes handy please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Plates 187x111 6mm plate center hole is 58mm diameter 56mm to center from one edge . hole centres for mounting to flange are 61mm and 51 mm center to center , as below thought it might be easier to draw it hahaha minds not working right this morning. the bar is 40x10 flat , I bolted them together so it’s a bit more versatile, hope this helps . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Really helpful. Thank you very much. I shall get myself some 6mm steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 5 hours ago, monkie said: Thanks for that useful info. I watched a video on it and they made a tool not half as good as that one you've got. Do you have the measurements of the holes handy please? My 90 has started weeping, but I'll leave it until summer to do. Any chance of a link to the video please? An update on your repairs especially snags would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 1 hour ago, Paddy said: My 90 has started weeping, but I'll leave it until summer to do. Any chance of a link to the video please? An update on your repairs especially snags would be appreciated. The link to the video is here. I'll hopefully get round to it over the next few weekends and I will post an update. I will make the holding tool in the week that Ianmayco68 kindly put the plans up for. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Just to add Paddy, I understand that the rear diffs on a 110 are different to those on a 90 but I'm not sure how they differ in terms of this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Thanks for the link. I hadn’t copped to the 110 being Salisbury, and as you say the 90 has Rover. Still, an interesting video. I’ll spend a bit of time revising manuals for the 90. Good luck when you get round to yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 last time I replaced my Salisbury pinion seal, once the prop was off, I just marked the nut & opinion end with white paint & retightened to the same marks, its been fine for ages. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 11 minutes ago, western said: last time I replaced my Salisbury pinion seal, once the prop was off, I just marked the nut & opinion end with white paint & retightened to the same marks, its been fine for ages. Did you just replace the seal or did you get the kit with the new flange as well? I'm thinking I might as well do both but in doing so it might mean that tightening the nut back to the marks painted on may well be meaningless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 can't remember if I change the flange as well, it was a few years ago, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Pretty sure I used this Phil: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/246023/0/flange_assy_sailsbury_diff_def__wa General consensus seemed to be that if you re-tighten the nut to 120lb ft it will be tight enough but you wont alter the pre-load. I did mine about 18 months ago and it has been fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 That was the product I was looking at Richard. Given your success I think I will give that one a go. Out of interest, where did 120 ft-lb come from? That seems quite tight to me (163 Nm) but if that is the consensus and that's what you did..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I'm a poor field mechanic and have never owned a torque wrench, but that nut is certainly effin' tight - that's where the flange lock tool (nicer than the one I made btw) comes in; I think you'd struggle without one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 For the size of nut, 120lbft is not that tight at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 The info came from Snagger, but I cant find the posts now. During his rebuild of his diff, I am sure that he said that it took waaaay more than 120lbft to compress the spacer, so 120 is tight enough to be tight but not so tight as to affect pre-load further. I did mine on the ground on the drive. I just chocked the wheels well to hold everything still, no special tools needed other than the torque wrench. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Since I'm not Nige I hope this is OK but if you take it off road it's worth asking him for one of his Super Pinion Flanges (his name not mine) while you've got it apart. They're designed to cover the front of the seal and prevent dirt getting pushed past it, I admittedly haven't had a huge issue with the standard setup (but Nige built up my lockers with them) but a friend trashed two Ashcroft built diffs for this reason. There maybe some shims required due to LR tolerances but he can fill you in on the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 Thanks to all for the responses, as usual all are really helpful. Considering I'm going to the job as Richard describes, 160 Nm is tight in my books when crawling on your back with a torque wrench in hand, grit in your eye and no doubt it just starts to rain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 14 minutes ago, monkie said: Considering I'm going to the job as Richard describes, 160 Nm is tight in my books when crawling on your back with a torque wrench in hand, grit in your eye and no doubt it just starts to rain! I know that feeling! Finished installing a transfer box lying on my back in an inch of water. By that point I was so wet I was beyond caring, just wanted to get it done and then have a nice long bath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 On 9/10/2018 at 9:49 AM, Bowie69 said: For the size of nut, 120lbft is not that tight at all. Manual says 162Nm for diff flange pinion nuts on both axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 I think you'll struggle without that tool to hold the flange still enough to get enough turn on it. I fixed a Salisbury with the updated flange kit, I think I went to 150lbft , no problems, following Snagger's advice link, as he quotes the manual as needing 250 lb.ft to crush the tube . If you want to use the old flange and it's scored, there is a speedisleeve that can be used but it has to be put on backwards. (This is a Salisbury we are discussing isn't it?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 41 minutes ago, western said: Manual says 162Nm for diff flange pinion nuts on both axles. Same thing Ralph (different units, OK within 0.5 lbft...). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 2 hours ago, western said: Manual says 162Nm for diff flange pinion nuts on both axles. Yeah I appreciate that, what I mean is, that for that fastener, which is huge, you could do it up tighter without damage, was referring to @Giles's comment above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 8 hours ago, cackshifter said: I think you'll struggle without that tool to hold the flange still enough to get enough turn on it. I fixed a Salisbury with the updated flange kit, I think I went to 150lbft , no problems, following Snagger's advice link, as he quotes the manual as needing 250 lb.ft to crush the tube . If you want to use the old flange and it's scored, there is a speedisleeve that can be used but it has to be put on backwards. (This is a Salisbury we are discussing isn't it?) Mine was fine. Chocked the wheels well front and back. Key then is to take the slack out of the drive train with the wrench, push the chocks tighter against the back of the wheels and then tighten properly. Mines been fine for at least 18 months, could be 2.5 years now actually and a LOT of miles. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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