Kurt Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Having finished the chassis job on my defender i have decided to replace the somewhat tired lump in her and purchased a short motor from a relatively low mile discovery from a reputable landrover specialist with a view to rebuild. Looking in the timing chest i could see quite an amount of “ fluff “ presumably timing belt related. This doesnt concern me as will be replacing with my own which i know is good. I do wonder if this was the reason the engine was removed. And so i begin my rebuild thread ... it may end up being a little long winded 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Bon Courage !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 ^ Haha! Thankyou! 😉 Taking a little look about i can see that the block deck is in quite good condition with no pitting evident around waterways even the triangular ones between cylinders which usually succumb to this. It has been covered with grease by myself to protect it and the bores. Its actually a lot cleaner in person and just light staining which easily comes off with fine (2000 grit) abrasive paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Pistons are standard and no evident wear lip on bores. What is there however is a ring of varnish/carbon mostly flickable off with a fingernail. Cross hatching is still plainly visble ( factory???) and a bit of glazing going on though this now looks worse now i have covered the bored with grease. Checking the pistons at the top of there travel there is none/very little play when trying to rock from side to side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Checking the camshaft endfloat before i remove ( and giving me a chance to try my new dti guage out 😂 ) and finding it to be within spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Superb! I loves a good engine build! Load up the pictures! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Oh yes - please keep it coming ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Good stuff, did my 200tdi in late 2017. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Crankshaft gear. This proved a bit awkward to remove. No amount of levering would budge it. I soon decided i had to construct some sort of puller to have a fair chance of removing. I ended up drilling and tapping the m5 holes to accept the m8 long bolts from my timing kit. It was then i noticed that the pulley puller had extra holes in which corresponded with the ones on the gear result! Once off a noticable amount of gunk/rust was evident. No damage to the crank nose , woodruff key or corresponding keywey in the gear though which was nice 😊. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 Bore score on number 1 cylinder 😩 can feel with fingernail and just about hang my fingernail up on. May require rebore i think. Will get all 4 done and planning on using genuine pistons. Checked crankshaft endfloat earlier and measured bang in the middle of acceptable spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Well that's a darned nuisance to put it mildly!! Still at least you will know you are starting off right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 1 hour ago, cackshifter said: Well that's a darned nuisance to put it mildly!! Still at least you will know you are starting off right. Yep was a little dissapointing especially given the general condition of the bores otherwise which i was going to measure with a view to just re-honing if possible but going to leave that for the machine shop now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 That’s a shame. I guess it must have picked something up and scratched the bore When I took the head off my 200Tdi a little while back it had some vertical marks in some of the bores, however they couldn’t be felt with a finger and seemed to be some kind of light polishing rather than a scratch. Some kind of wear I am sure but I put it back together and all seems okay so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 Managed to remove the crank rods and pistons today along with camshaft. Mains and big end bearings all seem ok though i will be replacing anyway. Camshaft forward most bearing has a little wear. Crankshaft journal number 1 conrod has 2 small marks / pits though nothing on the corresponding bearing surface. Wondering if it will be fine with a polish or will require regrinding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 4 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: That’s a shame. I guess it must have picked something up and scratched the bore When I took the head off my 200Tdi a little while back it had some vertical marks in some of the bores, however they couldn’t be felt with a finger and seemed to be some kind of light polishing rather than a scratch. Some kind of wear I am sure but I put it back together and all seems okay so far. My current 300 has several on number 4 cylinder big enough to feel with a fingernail. Same as you i noticed mine when i replaced head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 Beginning to now wonder if i managed to hit the journal with the rod when removing the piston.... 🙄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Called the machine shop today regarding bores and i am going to drop it in with them. He suggested maximum oversize pistons or otherwise sleeve if the scratch is to deep. Hoping there is enough meat left on the block to avoid the later. All bearings including mains pretty good with no scoring or copper showing. Std size shells. All journals apart from the pit on number 1 look good will measure with external caliper sometime this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 for the cylinder block standard diameter of bores is 90.47mm 1st oversize 90.73mm 2nd ovrsize 90.98mm maximum wear limit 0.177mm if its over this then rebore & fit oversize pistons. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 ^ Thanks Western. That reminds me i need to ask them about honing of the cylinders. Checking the kolbenshmidt site the top rings are chrome plated i am under the belief that these need a slightly more aggresive hone grit to help them bed in properly. Job for tonight has been to clean off gasket remenants and carefull polish with 2000grit paper using piece of float glass and check block face for straightness. Only spot i could get a feeler guage in was when measured diagonally between 2 and 3 cylinder at 0.03 ( 0.04 at a push... quite tight ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 your welcome, I bought all my 200Tdi engine parts from Turner Engineering here the 300tdi parts link https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/land-rover-300-tdi-engine-parts-c102x3005632 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Thats where I plan on using for most of my bits for the rebuild. Great service and always happy to answer any questions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Checked Conrod bushes earlier and it is possible to rock the wrist pin ever so slightly when inserted into the rod..... I would say the amount of play is the same on all four. Is this acceptable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted March 15, 2019 Author Share Posted March 15, 2019 Unable to get this to the machine shop for another week so had a play around with a telescoping bore guage ( calibrated using calibration bar out of my unfortunately to small for the job external mic! ) just checked each cylinder once from side to manifolds side of engine around 40mm below block face. 90.49 90.48 90.47 90.48 Pretty much all bang on standard bore spec. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 Any more progress? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 I am about to overhaul my 300tdi engine after 330 000 kms. I have all the parts required as I got them at trade discount 10 years ago when I worked for a LR garage! I have the LR overhaul manual. I notice that the manual says to change the con rod nuts but there is no mention of the bolts. That seems a bit strange to me. Should I get nuts and bolts? While at that garage I overhauled a couple of Tdi engines and did not change the bolts then either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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