steve b Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 It's 1 3/4" , 45mm is 0.5mm bigger , they can be undone with a spanner of the right size and length and never usually that tight . If you are taking the engine out do it once out , easy to hold crank by removing the clutch and using a metal link strap from a gearbox stud on the flywheel housing to one of the clutch plate bolt holes - if it's staying in then 4th high , hand brake on and if possible an assistant on the brake pedal and a nice heavy hammer on the socket bar . Anti-clockwise to undo , if it's really stubborn drop the sump and bolt a bar across the bottom of the block to stop the crank . The spring is part of the mechanical side of the chain tensioner and holds the ratchet pawl onto the tensioner ratchet - it stops the hydraulic tensioner from completely detensioning the chain when the engine stops , you shouldn't need it as it is chain and wheels . There are some tab washers that are worth replacing and also a slipper pad on the tension side of the chain. cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 I'll weld up a tool from some scrap today. Don't want to wait for weeks and then discover it doesn't properly fit. Pretty sure I can weld something that fits around the nut and have a bit nut lying around for which I do have an impact socket. Also a nice change of things to actually build something instead of tearing my beloved car to pieces and/or doing my daily computer based job from a corona quarantaine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 i have one that should fit it the bolt is the same size as the 200 Tdi I can mail to you from us here in the Allier ? 1 - are these crankshaft bolts the same ? 2 - do you want me to post it to you ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 @Arjan thanks for the offer, will keep that in mind. Just measured the width of the bolt at ~43mm. Will have a go with the welder to see if that helps, will be back with results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) IT"S OUT Grab a beer mates. I've got a 10 minutes timelaps in which i do this... now cutting an slicing video. (URL SOON) Don't take it too seriously. It's a good example of how NOT to do this! (especially the part where I put my shed on fire!) Edited April 8, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Top job there , getting on with what you have , I love it . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) and now to conclude the pulley is also quite stuck on... tried it with some help of the hammer and actually broke a piece out... might be able to fill the missing piece with weld and grind it back into shape (assuming that wouldn't give weird balancing issues...) or try and order a new one (but they don't seem replacement parts to me...) Edited April 8, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Oh well...... Poelietrekker ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Arjan said: Oh well...... Poelietrekker ? don't have one.. As i broke a piece out already and it seems to have balancing holes it will likely be done already... Will see if I can find an new one at a reasonable price. (already figured out the only french shop still claiming to be open doesn't have it, so will try and keep it in 1 piece) If i replace it I might as wel put the grinder to it. If there's any chance of repairing it and removing it without fuurther damage offcourse that's the way to go... just to be sure.... the pulley comes of on its own... not WITH the timing chain cover... correct? update: ordered pulley pullers, will arrive beginning of next month. For now I'll just continue with other stuff like rewiring the wings. Edited April 8, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) Pulleys are available - later ones have a timing notch in them - which is handy if you use a strobe (Pointers also have part numbers and are obtainable - and should be fitted before the pulley as the bolts are behind the pulley and long) Pulleys should pull straight out when the centre nut has been removed. They can rust onto the crank which makes the job more interesting. They are not attached to the chain cover or to the mud shield which covers the seal (plate covering the seal and held on by 8 rivets) https://www.lrdirect.com/ERC5349-Crankshaft-Pulley-2.25Pd2.5P/?keep_https=yes Edited April 8, 2020 by secondjeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/timing-chain-kit-da1337.html Guessing this should be all in 1 go. however it's listed as 'early' 2.25di i guess I've got a 3 main bearing engine, but as the engine serialnumber is missing I'm not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Looks like it, can't see the extra bracing of a 5 bearing. The block is blue. Which supports the theory that it's a 3 bearing unit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Well as impatiant as I am, I'm not going to wait for the pulley puller to arrive. I'm in the process of fabricating one. Pictures soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Probably not the most helpful solution but chats with two independent garages: shove a stack on it... Here in the UK it certainly looks like that for Class VI and VII MOTs that the cables aren't long enough to reach the exhaust stack on the 6x6 so they can't practically measure it so have to resort to a visual! Will find out in an hour or two what they've actually done to test it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 (edited) It is removed!!!!! Begin with the end in mind: How did i get it off without a pulley puller? 1. connect a chain (using some scrap metal to get a flat pull begin pully, the blue elastic is mainly to keep some tension) 2. a molegrip to keep a nut on the thread, placed 3 nuts on the end of the tread that are binding up together to turn the shaft on. The starterdog is in a fair bit so the thread of that can handle the abuse. Later on I continued using a socket 12 in there as distance keeper and to avoid ruining the crackshaft inner thread. 3. TURN! it took an immense amount of force! I even doubt a pulley puller would have survived. YEAH! Edited April 9, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Now i must say stuff looks ok in here. But hard to tell if you've never seen such a thing before. How much play is allowed on the tight side? how pointy are the sprockets allowed to be? Must say that 'doing timing' still feels heavy to me ;). is there a way I can lock camshaft and sprockets in a certain position and then replacing them one by one (and locking them straight in again) and thereby not loose timing and only having to double check... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 (edited) It's burning oil and running over rich So deal with the over rich first Ideally send off the injectors for reconditioning Injector cleaner needs a decent run to work it's magic. I think the pump is a little advance, but do the injectors and the timing chain first. I think your valve stem seals are tired. That's a head off job. At the same time have the head checked for true and fit a decent modern head gasket and ancillaries Edited April 9, 2020 by Nonimouse 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 still waiting for parts. To be continued in july / august (if we are free to travel to France by then) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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