=jon= Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 18 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: And no I can't remember if it's front or rear that's the correct one I think it's the rear - that's listed as 'egoGauge' in the Tunerstudio definitions, front is 'ego2Gauge'. That said - what's your exhaust setup? Some of the v8s came with twin lambdas (one in each bank) I believe, but I think it was the cat only pipes which it appears that yours has - if so do you have 2 lambdas fitted, or have you added another boss further downstream for a single lambda? Once it's running, I'd recommend you invest in a wideband - at least then you have a reasonably accurate idea of what the fuelling is doing, rather than the narrowband which is a bit finger in the air. It will more than likely pay for itself in saved fuel costs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 1 hour ago, =jon= said: That said - what's your exhaust setup? Some of the v8s came with twin lambdas (one in each bank) I believe, but I think it was the cat only pipes which it appears that yours has - if so do you have 2 lambdas fitted, or have you added another boss further downstream for a single lambda? Not only that but the standard ones are titania type which don't work directly with MS, you need the more common universal zirconia type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted May 18, 2021 Author Share Posted May 18, 2021 Its only got 1 lambda fitted hence the confusion.... It must surely be Front Bank O2 voltage and Air:Fuel Ratio2 on the screenshot I posted earlier. Im assuming as Fridge says theother reading is just noise in some way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 If you've got an AA battery you can touch it on the wire and find out, the inputs are 5v tolerant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share Posted May 19, 2021 I think im going to stop fiddling and get it MOT'd and see what happens. It looks and feels ok just idling and manuevering about. Guy I know is coming over this week with some trade plates and a 4 gas analyser so should get a good idea which tell the story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted May 21, 2021 Author Share Posted May 21, 2021 So I got to put a 4 gas analyser on it and got it sorta close to MOT levels but its still above so probaby need to replace the downpipes as the cats are knackered right now. Also got the idle running properly without closed loop PWM. Had a head scratcher on the PWM, as 0 isnt off! 40 off and 80 cold is what ive got and it seems to work ok. Ive also turned off EGO control as it just doesnt work at all. always reads lean and keeps dropping more fuel in which then smells proper rich. its patently not right. Might be a new o2 sensor from nige but his webshop is closed. is the o2 sensor an off the shelf item? Second Q, can you use a wideband with ms1/extra? anybody got a recommendation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 An O2 sensor should be off the shelf, as long as you get the right type - FF might be able to advise, but I'd prob just put a wideband in after the Y so you get readings from both banks not just one. In terms of WB - Innovate LC2 / AEM or Spartan 14.7 are all good. You want one with a 0-5v output, which you should be able to connect to the EGO in wire on the MS, then change the settings in Tunerstudio (Basic Settings / Exhaust Gas Settings) to tell it you have a Wideband.. You will need to be careful of ground offsets (use the same grounds and pos feed as the MS for the wideband...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 1 hour ago, mikeh501 said: Also got the idle running properly without closed loop PWM. Had a head scratcher on the PWM, as 0 isnt off! 40 off and 80 cold is what ive got and it seems to work ok. Yep, if you read the manual it explains all this you should test it by setting different duty cycles until it is closed and work from there. It is a fail safe, if it fails, it springs open and your engine will still start and run even when cold, as it will pick the idle up permanently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted May 22, 2021 Author Share Posted May 22, 2021 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402568468257?hash=item5dbaf35721:g:V80AAOSw~X1ft3rk this the right one? does it wire up the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 No, you need the controller as well.... e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INNOVATE-LC-2-Digital-Wideband-Lambda-Controller-LSU-4-9-O2-Sensor-3877-/122310385022?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Bowie can you check your PM's please, sorry for the thread interrupt regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Your quick Lambda sensor guide; From the factory your truck probably had Titania-type (resistive) sensors, these don't work with MS without modification to the ECU. Universal-fit Zirconia type as found at every car parts place for around £20 are narrowband, generate 0-1v and work with MS directly. Usually 4 wires these days as they're heated. You can do perfectly well with a single narrowband after the Y piece, but for tuning the high load areas a narrowband won't really help you. Wideband sensors (5+ wires) need a separate controller to drive them, and you need to set MS up to expect their output - controllers can usually be set up a number of ways; to pretend to be a narrowband sensor (0-1v) but with perfect linearity to give accurate AFR readings, or to give a linear 0-5v scale reading, or some other range, it's important you match the controller config to the MS config (or vice-versa) otherwise you may be reading total nonsense. With all of these the same rules apply - the sensor doesn't "know" if it's really rich or lean or if it's just seeing a misfire or exhaust leak so beware of blindly trusting your laptop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted June 8, 2021 Author Share Posted June 8, 2021 Did the inaugral road test in it last weekend, engine playing nicely. some more tuning to do but driveable. brill! The downside.... major graunching and noise coming from transmission, jumping out of hi/lo, generally very very unhappy. Turns out my front diff has decided to destroy itself after 200 yards..... ffs. Dont know how but the pinion is no longer supported by its bearings and is flopping about..... what on earth could cause this? only thing i can think of is that ive got different ring gears front to rear (they were built from bits to hand). ever had this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 10 hours ago, mikeh501 said: Dont know how but the pinion is no longer supported by its bearings and is flopping about..... what on earth could cause this? only thing i can think of is that ive got different ring gears front to rear (they were built from bits to hand). ever had this? Q1 are they the same ratio? Q2 were the pinions matched to the crownwheels? its not a massive issue but it certainly helps as they are made as a matching set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted June 9, 2021 Author Share Posted June 9, 2021 My guess is that they are not matches front to rear but need to pull the rear out and start counting teeth! Front ring gear is toast now so that needs redoing anyway. The pinions were blue'd and aligned with the ring gears etc when built. I believe all pinions are 8 teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 For diff diagnosis @Hybrid_From_Hell has seen almost everything that can go wrong or be done wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 Well its all fixed, got a new R&P from nigel and its in fine fettle. Another major update is that ive got a MOT on it!!! its now on the road and doneish Quick one, im getting a really noticeable induction hiss coming from my air filter when applying throttle. Im wondering if that noise means it restrictive? surely it wouldnt produce a noise if the air wasnt being 'compressed'. The setup is a 80mm right angle silicone hose, then the MAF which is again about 80mm and then into a 80mm fairly substantial cone filter. Hardly restrictive but wondering if all these cone filters arent made equal. Its a ramair one off ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352080751139 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 More noise is just because you have no air box Induction roar is probably greatest with individual throttle bodies, which are definitely the loudest Induction is a series of pulses, not just some continuous suck like a hoover, so is always turbulent, hence noisy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 I did wonder that but the fact it was a hissing noise rather than a roar made me wonder. ive also got a 1972 alfa romeo with twin 40s and trumpets and that roars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Daft question - why have you got a MAF if you're running MS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted July 1, 2021 Author Share Posted July 1, 2021 Apols meant MAT, not MAF. I did a decent run yesterday and im now seeing sensible lambda readings (i.e. either lean or rich kinda binary which is what im expecting on a narrow band id think) and ive enabled 0.3ms accel enrich and it seems happier between gears when on/off throttle. I think its running lean up the revs/throttle openings now. My intent is to richen up the VE buckets and keep trying it, and only then enable the o2 correction once its nearly there. Assume this is a good strategy? or should I enable o2 correction say @ 10% and then change the VE buckets to remove the o2 correction in the log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 Getting the table as close as you can before enabling O2 correction is a reasonable idea, with NB the ECU can only correct "cruise" conditions not full-throttle / high RPM so be careful how you set the O2 correction parameters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh501 Posted July 11, 2021 Author Share Posted July 11, 2021 Thanks for the help guys. Did some proper miles and tuning this weekend. drive a few miles, logging, review log, tweak, drive, log, tweak. seemed to go well. Plenty of go in it now and picks up cleanly. its very nearly 'right'. The problem I need some advice on. I had a bit of clutch slip with it a couple of weeks ago in 3rd under power which got me worried. Ive since adjusted the master cyliner rod adjuster which was at the very end of its adjustment (nut at end of rod). I wound it back about 1mm and no longer slipping. Now im finding getting into gear can be hit or miss, especially low speed into 1st and reverse. Essentially it feels like the clutch is dragging. It was like this before but slightly better. 2 things... Im thinking the clutch slave rod might be the wrong length? what is the proper length for a r380 v8 rod? Second, I bought a basic/cheapo v8 efI clutch (AP) when i built it. I might whilst the box is out swop it for one from clutchfix or LOFclutches. Which is best? any recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 Sounds a bit like some air the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 I fitted a LOF slave cylinder to the 109 and am mightily impressed with it. For the actual clutch assembly I've always stuck with AP/B&B and never had an issue. I'd fit a metal (not plastic) release bearing while you're doing it too. However, before doing major surgery, check the basics - not worth replacing the entire setup if you can fix it by bleeding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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