Diesel Leak

[kevin50]

6 minutes ago, Mutley said:

Did you lock off/secure the fuel pump???

Through the centre of top left sprocket as you look at the engine, it also locks up the timing cycle.

Not sure is there a Lock bolt on Pump ?

[Mutley]

You need x2 locking pins x1 for the fly wheel which you fitted plus x1 for the actual timing and i think fuel pump? Which goes in the top sprocket centre, then you should check that the x2 marks on the casing and sprocket line up and this tells you that the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Centre). I am sure a grown up will explain this a lot better than i can!?! But if you search on here for Timing Belt Fitting i think there is a thread that shows photos stage by stage of what to do.

Cheers Andy 

[kevin50]

Just had another look, on the flywheel underneath is there a slot that lines up.?
Front pin and flywheel lined up, rotated twice Front pin goes back in but flywheel slot cant be seen,
Please forgive me if that does not make Sense

Edited May 30, 2020 by kevin50

[Peaklander]

When it’s at TDC the pump pin goes in at about 11 o’clock. It goes in a long way. There’s no mistaking when it is correct.

The flywheel must be on the correct rotation and you will only find the flywheel slot and the FIP hole in one of two full rotations of the flywheel.
 

It’s very easy to miss the slot. Lie underneath with a good torch and with the near side wheel lifted, in gear, you can rotate the engine to find it. 

[western]

Be aware there are 2 slots in the flywheel edge,  Wide & Narrow, for timing use the Narrow slot, both should be visible through the clutch housing wading plug hole.

[kevin50]

2 minutes ago, western said:

Be aware there are 2 slots in the flywheel edge,  Wide & Narrow, for timing use the Narrow slot, both should be visible through the clutch housing wading plug hole.

OK Only seen one not sure if it was the wide or Narrow, better check that tomorrow. 

[western]

Worth checking, the TD/200 & 300Tdi use the same flywheel, IIRC the wider slot is timing point for the Older TD engine.

[kevin50]

13 minutes ago, western said:

Worth checking, the TD/200 & 300Tdi use the same flywheel, IIRC the wider slot is timing point for the Older TD engine.

Its a Disco 300tdi, not sure what year though.

[ballcock]

There is always a chance that the pump wasn't timed properly on repair.

[kevin50]

First pic, 9.5 Pin in, Mark looks about right from that angle,  Woodruf key out of line can't see slot in flywheel.

Second pic key lined up, can See slot in flywheel, marks about the Same but Pin Will Not go in. 

 

Attached Files:

[ballcock]

Have you slackened the three bolts holding the pump pully to align everything? 

Edited May 31, 2020 by ballcock

[Peaklander]

...and also, how far do you need to rotate the crank between the position where the pump pin will go in and seeing the flywheel slot?

[kevin50]

14 minutes ago, ballcock said:

Have you slackened the three bolts holding the pump pully to align everything? 

no

 

5 minutes ago, Peaklander said:

...and also, how far do you need to rotate the crank between the position where the pump pin will go in and seeing the flywheel slot?

Very Little about maybe 10 mil, then again might be less

[ballcock]

If you slacken the pump pulley bolts the belt should move enough to align every thing, it can give almost one belt tooth variation so you have to asses whether you need to move the belt one tooth on the pulley to get the correct alignment.

[reb78]

Yep^^ Do this. Get the cam and flywheel in the right place then slacken the three bolts on the FIP and then put a socket on the centre bolt of the FIP and turn the correct way so that the drill bit slips in, then tighten up the bolts.

 

Also - not sure it matters, but is that an FIP timing plate under the camshaft sprocket bolt? I am sure mine is just a large washer with a groove in it - there are two o rings under there (one under the head of the bolt, one in the groove of the washer to stop oil leaks.

Edited May 31, 2020 by reb78

[Mo Murphy]

With all due respect Kev, take it all off, research - Britannia restorations on u tube is one, do it again knowing exactly what you are doing. Performing the correct set up is absolutely critical if you want drive it after you've finished. 

Don't forget to do the valve clearances once you've finished.

HTH

Mo

[western]

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=british+restoration+300tdi+timing

[kevin50]

Done as above and got everything lined up this time,  2 turns by hand and all still lined up.

Started it up again and still the same Really bad running and Smoke.

Took couple of Vids will post them later.

[steve b]

Then I would agree with Ballcock's suggestion that during re-assembly at the diesel place the timing point has moved . To replace the seal the drive hub is removed and that fits onto a plain taper on the FIP shaft , no keyway .

cheers

Steve b

[kevin50]

16 minutes ago, steve b said:

Then I would agree with Ballcock's suggestion that during re-assembly at the diesel place the timing point has moved . To replace the seal the drive hub is removed and that fits onto a plain taper on the FIP shaft , no keyway .

cheers

Steve b

must have done something as it was Running Sweet as a Nut as they say, before I took pump to him. Don't you think he should know all this, or is it an easy mistake to make ??

[western]

I would expect a diesel specialist to know what they are doing & the pump should of been bench tested.

[kevin50]

6 minutes ago, western said:

I would expect a diesel specialist to know what they are doing & the pump should of been bench tested.

Gonna ring him tomorrow.

[ballcock]

Hi Kevin, when you sent the pump to the diesel specialist was the pulley attached or did you strip it to the taper?

[kevin50]

43 minutes ago, ballcock said:

Hi Kevin, when you sent the pump to the diesel specialist was the pulley attached or did you strip it to the taper?

Gave him the whole thing with pulley attached

[kevin50]

On 5/26/2020 at 9:23 AM, FridgeFreezer said:

Well, they fit in the same hole but that's about it - those look like cheap ebay ones. Probably OK on the voltmeter but not sure I'd trust my engine to the other two.

Unless your vehicle is 24v and the battery gauge is 12v there's no reason it should move off the scale unless it's knackered, or if it does it only when the engine's running it could be another wiring fault allowing the alternator voltage to float way above 14v, which is a Bad Thing^TM and needs fixing.

Still not got this sorted. Gonna try over the weekend. Got one of these, I know it can be used as a puller for the front crankshaft, wonder if it will pull front off Pump ?