LR90jp Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 Any reason as to why the space between the R380 tunnel and the bulkhead? Originally a 19J engine retrofitted with 300tdi and r380. From what I can tell, seatbox was retrofitted for R380 as well. Any ideas of what i can use as a spacer so as to have bolts fitting level? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 Land Rover build tolerances - spacing of bulkhead and seatbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 I'm guessing you are using the bolt on gearbox brackets onto the chassis? If so it won't match up anyway with the gear lever hole. Are your sills and seatbox bolted in the correct places? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90jp Posted July 20, 2020 Author Share Posted July 20, 2020 I assume you are referring for the mounting for the retrofit. I am not sure since i bought it retrofitted, but from what i see assume so. I do not follow what you exactly mean by not matching the gear lever hole. Sills are mounted correctly and seatbox too with all bolt holes matching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Does look like a short tunnel or seat box and bulkhead gap too big. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90jp Posted August 6, 2020 Author Share Posted August 6, 2020 Anyone can give measure for the the distance between the seatbox and the bulkhead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Mines apart at the moment. I measured from the bulkhead face below the fuse box to the front face of the square ridge in front of the cubby box = 427mm 1997 300tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Mine, measured as Mr. Sleaze has done is 424mm. The R380 tunnel I have in the garage is 400mm long. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90jp Posted August 8, 2020 Author Share Posted August 8, 2020 My measurement from just below the fusebox on the BH to the square ridge (top corner) on the seatbox is 440mm. Tunnel is 400mm. BK to seat box are a bit far off, but cannot see what might be throwing it off...p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 is the correct tunnel adaptor plate fitted below the fusebox, I think the R380 one is longer than the LT77 version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90jp Posted August 8, 2020 Author Share Posted August 8, 2020 Any pointers on how to identify correct one? The below is the only pic I have of mine unmounted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 This is mine from my rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 2 listed MTC2252 for 4 cyl engined vehicles this one looks longer https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/MTC2252 RTC6826 https://www.sp-4x4.com/product_p/rtc6826.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 If it matches the tunnel it's the right one ! Have you tried slackening the screws at the seatbox diaphragm and middle for diddling the tunnel ? Otherwise its reducing the gap by shimming the bulkhead rearwards and resetting the wings, front panel, screen frame and door setting. Have you got a picture of your door gaps ? Or you could accept it's not right, put some penny washers under the screw heads and live with it. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nidge Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 I had this on my last build, my way round it was - Remove the flange and fit some 5mm Vibromat soundproofing to the bulkhead and then use a 5mm neoprene seal on the flange and re -fit.... will give you an extra 8mm or so and also add some much needed soundproofing. Also the flange is flexible and will pull back more than you think. Nidge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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