paime Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 3 hours ago, western said: Exactly what I've done on my 110, bought a pair of custom made hoses from David of Llama4x4. got rid of the silly short rigid pipe & the top bracket that sits under the top swivel pin bolts. This does make a lot of sense now i come to think about it. Have you got any pics of the setup? How do you keep the flexi away from the tyre on full lock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Yes, just found my photo's in this thread, they are clear of tyres on full lock each way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Given up on alignment for tonight as i wanted to feel like im making progress so started reconnecting looms. Well, that and im still huffing about my expensive brake lines! I took loads of pics when I was disconnecting all the electrics but somehow I dont know where this one goes, any ideas? I've also got a spare earth-strap-looking thing on the O/S side of the gearbox that I can't place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 In refitting my 110 CSW body bits I started from the back, since the back vertical face of the rear cross-member is your datum surface. This was good advice from a fellow forum member, but I can't remember who. During fitting, I needed/used ratchet straps, a couple of hydraulic bottle jacks, a hi-lift jack, and a spreader bar with threaded end sockets. I also left all bolts loose, but with nuts fitted. This included the rear cross member bolts, bulkhead bolts, roof bolts, lower side to upper side bolts and front wing (outer and inner) mounting bolts. Fitting became a process of a little bit here, then a little bit there, all the while checking and rechecking that alignment was still good. In an earlier post I related the problems I had with fitting the front doors, https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108425-stainless-steel-door-hinge-bolt-kit-problem-fitting/ So, hasten slowly, and keep checking. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 9 hours ago, paime said: Given up on alignment for tonight as i wanted to feel like im making progress so started reconnecting looms. Well, that and im still huffing about my expensive brake lines! I took loads of pics when I was disconnecting all the electrics but somehow I dont know where this one goes, any ideas? I've also got a spare earth-strap-looking thing on the O/S side of the gearbox that I can't place. 12v feed battery cable to starter solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 That's what i initially thought but then i've already allocated a 12v feed to the starter so i'm a touch perplexed. Can't find it referenced on lrworkshop either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 12 minutes ago, paime said: That's what i initially thought but then i've already allocated a 12v feed to the starter so i'm a touch perplexed. Can't find it referenced on lrworkshop either. Won't there be two on the Starter? One from battery and one from the Alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 56 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Won't there be two on the Starter? One from battery and one from the Alternator? I think you might be right. Found some pics from when i did some 3D modelling and you can just see the alternator creeping into shot with what looks like 2 rather beefy cables attached to its post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 23, 2021 Author Share Posted January 23, 2021 In my haste I didn't mark the rear ABS sensors according to which side is which. I've bought new sensors because I got a bit annoyed removing one of the old ones and it got destroyed, how do I tell which sensor is for which wheel? The new sensors have a long wire and a short wire which corresponds to a long and short arrangement on the loom as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 Where do they plug into the next bit of the loom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 20 hours ago, landroversforever said: Where do they plug into the next bit of the loom? From what I can see they go into the ECU compartment under the drivers seat. Had manky hands so didn't lift it up to take a look but will do so tomorrow and report back. In other news, anyone know where this goes?? Looks like a couple of earthing points to me but i'm at a loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 That is the earth connection on the side of the R380. Not sure that I have a photo of mine but the bolt is somewhere there in the right side of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 (edited) Maybe this will help although the photo from the book isn't very clear - in fact it doesn't even look like the right hand side of the gearbox! I will see if I can get under mine and take a photo. Edit Here’s mine, it’s on the rhs of the transfer box. This is the view looking back alongside the front prop. Edited January 26, 2021 by Peaklander 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 Any use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 On 1/26/2021 at 11:34 AM, Peaklander said: Just managed to grab an hour rummaging outside and this pic is the one i needed, cheers! I thought i took plenty of photos when i was stripping everything down but now i'm looking back through them i don't think i've been thorough enough in some places. There are some images where i can't even tell which bit of the car i'm looking at! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 On 23/01/2021 at 11:53 PM, landroversforever said: Where do they plug into the next bit of the loom? Had a look under the drivers seat and its a bit of a mystery. They are the two middle connections on the black box at the bottom left there which is, I believe, the ABS brain box. It isn't labelled left and right unfortunately. One lead is long and one lead is short and that's about all I have to distinguish between the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 Just found this: https://blackbox-solutions.com/help/SM033.html Looks like the sensors go to the yellow connection on the black box. I'm assuming right-hand is O/S similar to how the brake lines are labelled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 29, 2021 Author Share Posted January 29, 2021 Inching towards completion now - got the ABS sensors in last night and refitted the transmission tunnel, matitng and gear levers which means i now have my interior back. I've also bled the brakes and clutch which, interestingly enough has cured my squeeky clutch pedal. I used one of those one way valve bleeding systems which cost £5 and it was a piece of cake, would definitely recommend it. I've now got to finish off aligning the body and i've been putting it off because it seems like a nightmare job. The bulkhead is about an inch back from the outriggers which is too far and i think the whole body needs to shift forward by about 10mm. What i'm struggling to understand is how that can happen as the front of the seat box is aligned to the chassis connections and there's no room for adjustment there. Is there a way to adjust the seatbox/floors in relation to the tub and bulkhead i.e. is there a way to alter the distance between A and B posts? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 2 minutes ago, paime said: Inching towards completion now - got the ABS sensors in last night and refitted the transmission tunnel, matitng and gear levers which means i now have my interior back. I've also bled the brakes and clutch which, interestingly enough has cured my squeeky clutch pedal. I used one of those one way valve bleeding systems which cost £5 and it was a piece of cake, would definitely recommend it. I've now got to finish off aligning the body and i've been putting it off because it seems like a nightmare job. The bulkhead is about an inch back from the outriggers which is too far and i think the whole body needs to shift forward by about 10mm. What i'm struggling to understand is how that can happen as the front of the seat box is aligned to the chassis connections and there's no room for adjustment there. Is there a way to adjust the seatbox/floors in relation to the tub and bulkhead i.e. is there a way to alter the distance between A and B posts? Distance between the bulkhead and the front edge of the tub is set by the door gap. There's a nominal size given for that gap but it might be that you need to go under that size a bit to get the gap you need. One thought.... as it sits, are the door gaps parrallell? If not, does that match up with the gap bulkhead-to-outrigger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, paime said: Inching towards completion now - got the ABS sensors in last night and refitted the transmission tunnel, matitng and gear levers which means i now have my interior back. I've also bled the brakes and clutch which, interestingly enough has cured my squeeky clutch pedal. I used one of those one way valve bleeding systems which cost £5 and it was a piece of cake, would definitely recommend it. I've now got to finish off aligning the body and i've been putting it off because it seems like a nightmare job. The bulkhead is about an inch back from the outriggers which is too far and i think the whole body needs to shift forward by about 10mm. What i'm struggling to understand is how that can happen as the front of the seat box is aligned to the chassis connections and there's no room for adjustment there. Is there a way to adjust the seatbox/floors in relation to the tub and bulkhead i.e. is there a way to alter the distance between A and B posts? My bulkhead to outrigger gap only has 1 M10/M12? washer in between each side bolt. It was 3 washers on the old chassis. but your pic on page 8 looks like a massive gap. Is the rear tub sat back inside on the rear crossmember plates as far as it will go, i.e just 2-3mm past flush with the face? Is the td5 crossmember angle plate adjustable for this, as the 300tdi is a fixed datum. Can't remember now if the td5 has a cover plate on the rear crossmember or if it's just the military wolf. Pete Edited January 29, 2021 by pete3000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 Ah is yours the age where it has the adjustable rear crossmember mount? IIRC they sit inside the tub, unlike the earlier ones which have the tabs outside the back face of the tub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 I think it depends on the year of TD5 Ross, best idea is to have a look at the tub and see if you have nut plates with rivets or rivnuts. Better still is if you have any pre dissasembly photos or witness marks on the tub? You may get some adjustment in the strip though if the holes into the crossmember are slotted? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 15 minutes ago, pete3000 said: I think it depends on the year of TD5 Ross, best idea is to have a look at the tub and see if you have nut plates with rivets or rivnuts. Better still is if you have any pre dissasembly photos or witness marks on the tub? You may get some adjustment in the strip though if the holes into the crossmember are slotted? Pete Yeah, they are slotted, it's a while since I looked at one, but its about ~10-15mm of adjustment IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 29, 2021 Author Share Posted January 29, 2021 Mine has the adjustable rear strip with the tabs on the outside of the tub. I've kept these loose just now to allow movement. I'm not sure how i'm going to get everything to move forward if the front of the seat box is fixed on non-movable mounts. The pic below shows the mounts i'm referring to. They aren't slotted and if i were to shift everything forward then i won't be able to bolt the seatbox onto them. 1 hour ago, pete3000 said: My bulkhead to outrigger gap only has 1 M10/M12? washer in between each side bolt. It was 3 washers on the old chassis. but your pic on page 8 looks like a massive gap. The gap is still the same and i filled it with washers but got to 5 washers and thought better of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 Mine are for the front of the seatbox, is yours a Richards Chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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