landroversforever Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 YRM do some decent repair panels for bits like that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 On 11/22/2020 at 10:25 PM, paime said: Its been a while since my last update and I've managed to get a few things done. Work and family life has taken priority but nevertheless I finally have a rolling chassis. Built up quite a few elements and im now onto some more stripping of the old chassis. Im a bit worried about my spring alignment on the front as it seems like my axle is slightly off to one side. Will things settle down once the engine is on and the springs are compressed a bit more? Tell me to shut up if you've spotted the bolt through the drop arm bracket is too long(stack of washers)/facing the wrong way, i can go and look what i used if it's useful, Think from memory it the same imperial bolt/nyloc nut as the a-frame balljoint bracket. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 I got caught out with the same bolt, the later chassis have a shorter mount on top of the rail there and so you need a shorter bolt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 1 hour ago, pete3000 said: Tell me to shut up if you've spotted the bolt through the drop arm bracket is too long(stack of washers)/facing the wrong way, i can go and look what i used if it's useful, Think from memory it the same imperial bolt/nyloc nut as the a-frame balljoint bracket. Pete Shhhh....you're not supposed to see that bit! I've changed it out now. I bought 2 different bolts kits from YRM and neither of them worked with that top mount so i had to order one separately. It was a bit of a head-scratcher to begin with until i measured the top mount and noticed that the new chassis bracket was about 10mm shorter than the old chassis. Does anyone know if it's possible to put a TD5 fuel tank in from the top rather than from underneath? I had a nightmare of a job getting the tank cradle to fit and then thought i could drop the fuel tank in from above but the filler neck seems to make that impossible. Ended up spilling lots of diesel on my shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Well erm no, it certainly isn't on my 110. Assuming we are talking about the rear plastic 12? gallon tank on the 90 td5, you may get away with taking the front two bolts on the guard out and slackening the rear crossmember bolts to lower the guard, but it may be necessary to remove the guard and start again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 I was afraid you would say that! It won't be the first time i've had to undo previous work and i'm sure it won't be the last! Once i've got that fuel tank sorted i can plumb in fuel lines and then all i've got to do is transfer over the wiring looms before i can get to work on separating the old chassis from the body. Might be finished in time for christmas 2021 at this rate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 For the body mount, I trimmed away the flakey rubbish and bolted in an overlapping panel of 3mm marine grade alloy, bonded on all contacting surfaces with PU adhesive. The bolts (4 x M6) were all well covered in wax, as were the edges of the bolt holes, before fitting, as were the similar bolts through the outrigger into the new material. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 Things are moving along gradually now - got the rear axle brake lines installed and next i'll be running the brake lines along the inner chassis rail to the next connection point. After that it's just the fuel line to go and i'll be ready to separate the old body and chassis....which leads me to my next question.... I found a post on here (which i can't find again unfortunately) of someone who had used an engine crane through the rear window of a 110 to lift the body up by the rear bulkhead rather than use a post lift. I have one double garage with limited headroom and a 1tonne engine crane and need to figure out a way to get the old body onto the new chassis. Here's where i'm at so far: Step 1: Separate engine at gearbox and lift engine out of old chassis and place on new chassis Step 2: Undo all the chassis/body bolts and any remaining connections Step 3: Lower the old chassis/body onto a pallet Step 4: Lift the body off the chassis with an engine crane somehow and place on supports under the rear tub and under the bulkhead A posts Step 5: Drag out the old chassis from beneath complete with gearbox and transfer case still attached Step 6: Lift gearbox/transfer into new chassis Step 7: Roll new chassis assembly under body Step 8: Lower the body onto the new chassis and bolt it up Any comments/suggestions on that procedure? I've been scratching my head for months about this bit so any help is much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 (edited) This is how I moved across the rear body of my 90 earlier this year, all single handed and using only a 2-ton hoist (I bought the 2-ton hoist as it had slightly longer reach & height than the 1-ton version). Of course I appreciate that the 110 body is longer and the centre of balance may be more difficult to access, also mine is a soft-top which affects the weight / balance. Reading your post I take it you are trying to move the body across in one lump??? Personally I didn't even consider doing that as it is an excellent time to separate parts and tackle any problems that may be simmering underneath. Of course it takes longer but is a more thorough way of doing it and ensures all seals, fixings etc are new. Due to limited space I left the new chassis in one place throughout the whole rebuild and swung the body, bulkhead, engine / gearbox etc from one chassis to another using the hoist (the two chassis were in-line on a narrow driveway) . I only rolled the axles underneath right at the very end. Edited December 16, 2020 by Litch Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 Thanks @Litch! Do you have any images showing your lifting points on the inside of the rear tub there? The only reason i'm keeping things together is i've heard some real horror stories about panel alignment when people have taken things apart separately then stuck them back together but maybe if i did it in 2 parts (rear rub and roof then bulkhead) that might not be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 I have some decent tie-down points on the floor of the rear tub and used them, could you remove the eyebrows and run a couple of straps underneath the tub? The load-lever made a whole world of difference, meant that I could set the angle of the tub / engine-transmission / bulkhead perfectly. Without a second pair of eyes / hands I needed to make sure it was all going to slot together correctly. Alignment is really just a case of adjustment and personally I would rather check all the mating surfaces & fixings with it apart rather than try to save a bit of time to swing it across in one piece, especially if doing that was going to cause its own problems anyway (lack of space). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 28 minutes ago, paime said: Thanks @Litch! Do you have any images showing your lifting points on the inside of the rear tub there? The only reason i'm keeping things together is i've heard some real horror stories about panel alignment when people have taken things apart separately then stuck them back together but maybe if i did it in 2 parts (rear rub and roof then bulkhead) that might not be an issue. I wouldn't worry too much about stripping it into its parts. It's just a fair bit of work to realign. If its anything massively serious alignment-wise, you're likely to have the same issue dropping it on whole. One thing I've seen for lifting an american pickup cab off a chassis was to make a wooden arm to lift with (to fit on an engine crane). In this case it was used through the side door, with two bits of ~6x2" running across from gutter rail to gutter rail. Something like that might be worth knocking up. Either in the rear door or from the side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 Now that's a good idea! I could wedge some 6x2 in the internals of the tub capping and lift from there. Maybe an extra sling into the top rail of the rear bulkhead as well. Then its just a case of lifting it up, quickly dragging the old chassis out and wheeling the new one in with no need for supports or stands as it'll only be in the air for a few minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 On 12/16/2020 at 11:33 AM, paime said: ........... as it'll only be in the air for a few minutes. .............. or hours, or even days! Don't forget that both Murphy and his assistant Sod, two legal eagles, have a deep interest in your operations! I wish you every success and will be following this thread closely. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 2 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: .............. or hours, or even days! Don't forget that both Murphy and his assistant Sod, two legal eagles, have a deep interest in your operations! I wish you every success and will be following this thread closely. Mike Might lay the body down on some supports now just to be on the safe side... My 3 month project has been on the go for 9 months so far so I should probably plan for some programme slippage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 6 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: .............. or hours, or even days! Don't forget that both Murphy and his assistant Sod, two legal eagles, have a deep interest in your operations! I wish you every success and will be following this thread closely. Mike It wasn't me ! Mo 😬 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 "it'll only be in the air for a few minutes" When the body is free of the chassis you may want to check / clean / treat the surfaces where the the body bolts to the chassis as that is the only time you get to see them, as soon as you fit the body to the new chassis they will be hidden again. I would not be surprised if you find some level of corrosion that will need to be rubbed down etc. When re-fitting use an isolator of some kind, in the past I have used thin sheets of plastic to act as a gasket but this time I bought the rubber gaskets from YRM (not certain I would bother again and would probably go back to plastic). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 Also, you never know what might happen... you could trip and twist your ankle or whatever and end up with it left in the air for a month or more. Certainly worth looking for a way to hold it in the air temporarily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 Exciting times, we have an engine on the new chassis! Wasn't too bad in the end, just quite a few bits and pieces to disconnect. One problem I've found is that there was quite a lot of oil in the bell housing, so much so that it left a puddle on the garage floor. Does that mean my rear crank seal needs replacing? There's oil everywhere to be fair so it may have blown in from the rocker cover gasket seal thats duff as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Def. replace the rear crank seal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 And take a look at the gearbox input seal too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said: And take a look at the gearbox input seal too. Some of that oil does have a bit of a red tinge to it i think. Urgh more jobs I hadn't planned to do. Need to find somewhere local that sells rear oil seals as well as I think royal mail is currently having a nightmare with deliveries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 31 minutes ago, paime said: Some of that oil does have a bit of a red tinge to it i think. Urgh more jobs I hadn't planned to do. Need to find somewhere local that sells rear oil seals as well as I think royal mail is currently having a nightmare with deliveries. Everywhere is! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 26, 2020 Author Share Posted December 26, 2020 Quick question - are the flywheel bolts on a td5 stretch bolts that can't be used again or can I apply some threadlock and torque the old ones up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted December 30, 2020 Author Share Posted December 30, 2020 Some good progress this week - gearbox transferred across, prop shafts in, brake and fuel lines done, new clutch and rear crank seal done. I'm pretty much set to get the body off the old chassis now, just need to undo/cut the bolts off and drag out the old chassis. Would anyone have a diagram of all the body to chassis connections for a 90 TD5 they could share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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