Snagger Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 Don’t forget that galvanising works electrically. When the steel tries to rust, the zinc gives up ions or electrons (not sure which) and oxidises instead. The maritime industry bolt big blocks of zinc to hulls and oil rig structures - they don’t coat the whole vessel or structure. A screw hole will not rust away. But a dollop of grease or waxoil in the hole before fitting the screw will help preserve it even better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 That’s what I did, drilled holes to fit the genuine pipe/cable clips and touched them up with paint before fitting. As they’re pretty much all drilled in the top face of the chassis rail the scope for rot is minimal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 4 hours ago, landroversforever said: You can get stick on ones, but I’ve never found anything that sticks on actually stay permanently attached. I wouldn’t worry too much about drilling, using something like a stainless tek screw with some copper grease shouldn’t cause any issues. I used some stainless hex head tek screws & stainless rubber lined P clips to hold the brake pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 9 hours ago, western said: I used some stainless hex head tek screws & stainless rubber lined P clips to hold the brake pipes. Plastic clips or rubber lined stainless are great. I’m wary of unlined metal clips on copper or cunifer pipes, not only because of fretting and wear, but bimetallic corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 I'm keen for the rubber mounts but im still way too much of a chicken to be drilling my lovely new chassis. I'm thinking I could use all the predicted holes and then use something like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281431740813 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 I don't know if you'll find enough holes in the chassis for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 There's always cable ties and you can get stainless steel ones if you really don't want to drill your chassis regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Why don't you want to drill the chassis? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 36 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Why don't you want to drill the chassis? Rust, rust and more rust! I've never had a good experience with coatings and bare steel in the past and the last thing I want to do is introduce the prospect of the chassis starting to rust prematurely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Smothered with waxoyl, and using zinced/stainless fittings will mean it lasts at the very minimum 25 years... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Your galvanised chassis already has threaded sockets on it, quite a few. These have been drilled after galvanising, or if drilled before, then they have been re-tapped afterwards to remove the zinc that fouls the thread, and they are just bare steel. So, drilling a few additional holes for mounting pipe brackets is not going to significantly impact your chassis life, especially if protection measures above are taken. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted October 24, 2020 Author Share Posted October 24, 2020 A bit more progress today - managed to get the front axle built up and the wheels back on. Hopefully tomorrow i'll be able to get the radius arms, springs and dampers in place and then i'll have a rolling chassis at last. A couple of questions/observations from today: 1 - Broadly speaking, what are my next steps from here? I'm thinking brake lines (need to stop being a chicken and drill the chassis for the clips), then take out the engine, replace the clutch, pop it on the new chassis then lift off the old body. 2 - i was almost in tears this morning. I've spent a good bit of time finessing my lovely new gaitors for the swivels including bonding the rubber in place which was an absolute nightmare. When i came to fit the whole assembly to the axle i realised that i couldn't get the bolts in past the new gaitor. Because it's bonded in place, after an hour or so of chin scratching i came to the sad realisation that the only way i could get my swivels on was to cut off my new gaitors. Classic Britpart strikes again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 I would say get the brake pipes fitted & clipped in place it will be far easier. sorry to read you had to destroy the swivel gaiters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 I drilled my new galv chassis as the list of clips was growing, the one area i did manage to avoid was the front by the bumper by running the brake line to the bulkhead and over the top by the heater. clips I fitted were brake pipe singles, and doubles 6mm hole, doubles along the o/s chassis rail to hole brake line and breather from rear axle. Twin diesel clips 7mm hole? along top of o/s rail to sedimentor. 2x twin battery pipe clips on n/s rail in front of seatbox. (only had to drill 1x hole as 1 already in front lhs outrigger. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 I'd echo what western says, lay the brake lines in to the rear especially, also fuel lines (110 more so) and breathers. The one big and heavy lump which is easiest done without the engine in is the power steering box drop arm and bolts, This should also allow you to lay the power steering pipes along the front of the chassis rail inner face. If you havent already fit the bumpstops and the fuel tank and sender. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 "Classic Britpart strikes again!" Not the case. These gaitors have been around for many years (I bought a set 20-years ago after having a bad time with the leather ones) long before they were marketed / branded by BP (was it Bailcast?) and if I recall correctly they were exactly the same. Just because BP market something it doesn't mean that they design & manufacture it. My fitting instructions are long gone but did you check you could bond the gaitors before fitting the bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Surely the gaitor would squash enough to get the bolts in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Could have used some of Ross' shiny stainless swivel seal securing rings too ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 20 hours ago, Litch said: "Classic Britpart strikes again!" Not the case. These gaitors have been around for many years (I bought a set 20-years ago after having a bad time with the leather ones) long before they were marketed / branded by BP (was it Bailcast?) and if I recall correctly they were exactly the same. Just because BP market something it doesn't mean that they design & manufacture it. My fitting instructions are long gone but did you check you could bond the gaitors before fitting the bolts? Yes, Bailcast. I have them on my RRC. I think they’re pretty good, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 18 hours ago, landroversforever said: Surely the gaitor would squash enough to get the bolts in? Not really, but what does work is to pull the neck of the gaiter up to the narrowest part of the swivel housing and push it to one side. It is very awkward to get the bolts in with the gaiters on, though - they’re really meant to be fitted to an assembled axle. It would be a handy comment at the beginning of the instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted November 1, 2020 Author Share Posted November 1, 2020 Some good progress this weekend. Did a few smaller jobs that were needing done such as put new swivel pins on (the old ones were a bit notchy) and also changed the pinion seals as I had the usual diff leaks. Quick question on the latter - how far in should the seal be? I've got a sneaky feeling I tapped them in too far as they're about half an inch into the casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 Its been a while since my last update and I've managed to get a few things done. Work and family life has taken priority but nevertheless I finally have a rolling chassis. Built up quite a few elements and im now onto some more stripping of the old chassis. Im a bit worried about my spring alignment on the front as it seems like my axle is slightly off to one side. Will things settle down once the engine is on and the springs are compressed a bit more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 Yes it will settle once there some weight on it. While it’s riding artificially high the panhard rod will pull the axle off centre and the radius arms will twist it at an incline, hence the distorted springs. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Good to know and panick over, thanks! i tried removing the fuel tank last night and was met with pretty much every single nut and bolt being seized and sheering off. New fuel tank cradle ordered today as i'm going to have to carefully cut the old one out. Also tried to get the tow bar off and was met with the same problem. At this stage i think i'm just going to have to go care-free with the angle grinder and get as much off as possible. Oh the joys! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 A bit more progress this weekend although its difficult to spot. Managed to get the fuel tank out and the towbar off plus got the steering box on. Struggling to get the old TRE off the steering bar but it's currently soaking in WD40 so fingers crossed I'll get it to budge tomorrow. The more I strip off the old chassis the more rot I see. Genuinely amazed the whole thing didn't collapse in on itself when I still had it on the road! Does anyone have any good ideas for how to fix the body mount in the last pic? Seems like electrolytic corrosion has eaten away quite a chunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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